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Help with Disconnecting my old battery from the DC Distribution Panel (in RV)

The starter battery had a negative wire running to the engine block which I think was because it could be charged by alternator?
That wire is part of "the big three".
battery.positive to alternator.positive
engine.block to battery.neg
battery.neg to chassis
Pretty standard stuff.

As long as the green wires are attached to the chassis i don't need an additional wire going to the engine block, correct?
Consider me contextless, what green wires?

Good call on the info from the manual. I will put the fridge on its own 30A fuse coming directly off of the 80A fuse for the DC Circuit.
This is why I suggested to use both positive and negative busbars.
 
Yes, wire the generator to the starter battery.
Don't run down your starter battery though.
 
That wire is part of "the big three".
battery.positive to alternator.positive
engine.block to battery.neg
battery.neg to chassis
Pretty standard stuff.


Consider me contextless, what green wires?


This is why I suggested to use both positive and negative busbars.
the green wires are the neutral return wires which were originally connected to the negative post of the house battery, which was also connected to the chassis and to the engine block.

The plan is to remove the green wires from the negative post on the house battery and directly connect them to the chassis and also to remove the wire which connected the house battery to the engine block. (I had meant to say that the House battery was connected to the engine block)

A positive busbar would be ideal but I am thinking its ok to connect the 30A fuse(for the fridge) to the 80A circuit breaker since the Fridge says that it pulls 16A and the DC Panel adds up to about 20A if my calculations are correct. I am also doing this for convenience since I can turn off the 80A Circuit breaker and wire the 30A fuse for the fridge in while there is no current running to it without having to disconnect my panels and battery.
 
Yes, wire the generator to the starter battery.
Don't run down your starter battery though.
Sounds good, I am thinking that I probably wont have to run the gen much since I have 400w of solar panels and I will be staying in Arizona for the next few months where there is plenty of sun. Just keeping it wired up in case of emergency
 
green wires are the neutral return wires which were originally connected to the negative post of the house battery, which was also connected to the chassis and to the engine block.
DC does not have a neutral
Those a neg(-) connections
plan is to remove the green wires from the negative post on the house battery and directly connect them to the chassis and also to remove the wire which connected the house battery to the engine block. (I had meant to say that the House battery was connected to the engine block)
Unless I missed something in the thread: Do not randomly disconnect your negatives! At the very least this may be the only high-current connection to the chassis. And you need that. The block in RVs and boats is often the ‘for sure’ termination of all the negatives on board.
You can adequately make your changes and improvements with the pos(+) connections; without seeing it in person I can’t actually say for certain but there’s no harm keeping the neg(-) connections in place. You want the path of least resistance to have a heavy cable.
 
DC does not have a neutral
Those a neg(-) connections

Unless I missed something in the thread: Do not randomly disconnect your negatives! At the very least this may be the only high-current connection to the chassis. And you need that. The block in RVs and boats is often the ‘for sure’ termination of all the negatives on board.
You can adequately make your changes and improvements with the pos(+) connections; without seeing it in person I can’t actually say for certain but there’s no harm keeping the neg(-) connections in place. You want the path of least resistance to have a heavy cable.
Ok so what I did was to disconnect the negatives from the negative post of the old house battery and connect them to the chassis. The LFP battery(Which is now solely powering everything) is connected to the chassis by way of the DC Distribution panel. So basically the setup now is that the LFP negative is connected to the DC Distribution panel which then has a negative green wire running to the engine bay where it is connected to the chassis. The Fridge, Battery monitor and propane detector all have negative lines running to the same spot on the chassis in the engine bay. There is an additional wire connecting the chassis to the engine block. So far everything seems to be working ok (except the fridge but that was having problems before the switch over)

The LFP battery is about 18ft away from the chassis connection in the engine bay. The DC panel adds up to about 20A if everything was running at the same time and the fridge was using about .3A when it was on with propane.
 
which then has a negative green wire running to the engine bay where it is connected to the chassis.
Cool. I misunderstood.
So the negative from battery to chassis - however it arrives there- should be of the same gage as the pos(+) so the fuse will blow instead of the wire going afire I think was where my head was at: not having fires.
 
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