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Help with MPP Solar 1012LV-MS

Mudd216

New Member
Joined
Jul 12, 2022
Messages
20
I bought this 1K 12V inverter to get familiar with the technology before I spend the big bucks on a 48V system. I am glad I did because I can’t get it to perform as expected and I am a bit confused on its possibilities.

1. During an overload event, I would like switch to utility power then fall back to solar/battery without manual intervention.
2. In SBU mode, I would like to switch to utility when I don’t have enough battery/solar then switch back to solar/battery when its available without intervention.

For 1. When I overloaded with a heat gun, it switched to utility like expected but the only way I could get it back to solar/battery was to disconnect the utility power (maybe I didn’t wait long enough or maybe this isn’t possible?).

For 2. I encounter this same issue a couple times when my battery could not sustain me through the night. It appears when the battery reached option 12 voltage level it switched to utility as expected but the battery continued to drain to the low DC cut-off voltage and the inverter started beeping and the screen flashing. I couldn’t change settings, so I disconnected the inverter from solar, battery, and utility and waited until I had plenty of solar to hook it back up at which point it started charging the battery and operating in bypass mode.

I have three 200W 12V Rich solar panels, one Ampere Time 12V 100ah LiF2PO4 with a second on its way. Inverter set as follows: 01: SbU, 02: 50A, 03: APL, 04: SEN, 05: USE, 06: L-E (enabled), 07: t-d (disabled), 08: 120, 09: 60, 11: 10A, 12: 12.3, 13: 12.8, 16: OSO (only solar), 18: bOF, 19: -EP, 20: LON, 22: AON, 23: bye (enable), 25: FEN, 26: 14.6, 27: 13.8, 29: 11, 33-39 default.
 
I bought this 1K 12V inverter to get familiar with the technology before I spend the big bucks on a 48V system. I am glad I did because I can’t get it to perform as expected and I am a bit confused on its possibilities.

1. During an overload event, I would like switch to utility power then fall back to solar/battery without manual intervention.
2. In SBU mode, I would like to switch to utility when I don’t have enough battery/solar then switch back to solar/battery when its available without intervention.

For 1. When I overloaded with a heat gun, it switched to utility like expected but the only way I could get it back to solar/battery was to disconnect the utility power (maybe I didn’t wait long enough or maybe this isn’t possible?).

For 2. I encounter this same issue a couple times when my battery could not sustain me through the night. It appears when the battery reached option 12 voltage level it switched to utility as expected but the battery continued to drain to the low DC cut-off voltage and the inverter started beeping and the screen flashing. I couldn’t change settings, so I disconnected the inverter from solar, battery, and utility and waited until I had plenty of solar to hook it back up at which point it started charging the battery and operating in bypass mode.

I have three 200W 12V Rich solar panels, one Ampere Time 12V 100ah LiF2PO4 with a second on its way. Inverter set as follows: 01: SbU, 02: 50A, 03: APL, 04: SEN, 05: USE, 06: L-E (enabled), 07: t-d (disabled), 08: 120, 09: 60, 11: 10A, 12: 12.3, 13: 12.8, 16: OSO (only solar), 18: bOF, 19: -EP, 20: LON, 22: AON, 23: bye (enable), 25: FEN, 26: 14.6, 27: 13.8, 29: 11, 33-39 default.

My thoughts.

Issue #1. not sure what the return criteria are.

Issue #2:
16: OSO Solar energy will be the only charger source no matter utility is available or not. This unit consumes idle power and can drain the battery if utility can't charge.

04: SdS - power saver isn't useful 99% of the time.
11: this is NOT what you're pulling from AC, but what you're sending to the 12V, so only ~120W.
13: 12.8 is too low. You will hit this almost immediately, and 12.8V is a very low SoC for LFP.
26: 14.4 generally gives better results. If the battery cells are even slightly imbalanced, 14.6V will trigger OVP.
27: 13.6V is generally preferred.
29: 12V. There is so little capacity left at this level, it's pointless to risk running the cells lower unless you absolutely need that last couple %.
 
Issue #1: I've seen the same response. In fact, in my case, it flipped over to Utility at only around 350 Watts (I powered up an older plasma tv. I don't know if plasma's have a surge or not, but I doubt it's near 1000 watts). I let it sit for about 15 minutes and it never did flip back to Inverter until I removed the AC (flipped my breaker)
 
My thoughts.

Issue #1. not sure what the return criteria are.

Issue #2:
16: OSO Solar energy will be the only charger source no matter utility is available or not. This unit consumes idle power and can drain the battery if utility can't charge.

04: SdS - power saver isn't useful 99% of the time.
11: this is NOT what you're pulling from AC, but what you're sending to the 12V, so only ~120W.
13: 12.8 is too low. You will hit this almost immediately, and 12.8V is a very low SoC for LFP.
26: 14.4 generally gives better results. If the battery cells are even slightly imbalanced, 14.6V will trigger OVP.
27: 13.6V is generally preferred.
29: 12V. There is so little capacity left at this level, it's pointless to risk running the cells lower unless you absolutely need that last couple %.
Thanks for the feedback. I didnt understand that the unit would continue to use the battery for idle power even when in bypass mode.
 
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