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Hithium 314ah Review/Capacity Test 333ah

Hi,everyone, I bought the Hithium 280Ah cells to build two 17's.I did a quick capacity test,appart from all the other tests, and they turned out to be instead of about 900Wh just over 1000Wh per cell.I wasn't sure about one cell,so I changed it after a couple of months,still as flat as they arrived.Very happy with the charge/discharge performance,coming from lead carbon.....Yes,I would go with Hithium again.
 

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Nothing to do with the post...On the picture and on the right side of the inverter you can see one of the four film capacitors,which I've changed from the original electrolyte ones....
 
+300lb shelf.

Inside of door is 31".

OD of shelf is 30.5" plus a smidge, apparently.

Have to make slight jog to the right when shelf is 3/4 of the way inside to avoid breaker box and aio. :fp2:eek:x

That shelf was wedged in their tighter than a bull's but during summer fly season.

Speaking in French, one hand prying with a bar, and one foot holding a 2x6 in place so the other hand can hit it with a sledge hammer.

The darn thing is in there.

Things added to an already too long todo list ... fix door stops on both sides, and sill plate on the shop door.

Grrr ...
 
Second order of 32pcs of 314ah Hithium arrived.

Quick inspection:
All cells are flat, no jelly roll showing.
Torqued all nuts to 35in/lb without issue.
All vents intact.
No visible shipping damage.
3.279v-3.276v range, most all were 3.278, no outliers possibly indicating a bad cell.
No off smells possibly indicating a leaky cell.

Probably going to be lots of OT this week so it may be a while before capacity testing any of this batch.
 
Your not helping my temptation to order some of these Hithiums....
Wow they look nice and flat.
I need to use that same orientation when I expand again, the long 16 is nice but 8x2 sure seems like it would make wiring easier.

Nice work.
 
3mm foam sheets between cells. .6mm insulation board between long and short cell faces, and wood stringers. Was going to use sheetrock for all wood/cell contact areas but ran out of room. Sheetrock for insulation/fire retardant between front/back stringers. 5mm extra random piece of closed cell foam on the front stringer, jic . They are 2springs on each side keeping tension on the front stringer, will add 4more to the middle stringers. These cells will not necessarily be compressed to Eve test standards but will have some compression. I'm still in the camp that the average solar enthusiast will age out their LiFe:Po4 cells long before they cycle out.
 
I think the average addict will jump to the next new breakthrough technology before that happens ...
Agree. Has to be something more environmentally friendly to manufacture, and more energy, space, weight, and cost efficient.
 
It's going to be much easier to mount the t fuse right after the bms. Is their any issue with having the t fuse on the negative side right after the bms but before the busbar?
 
Didn't get any answers on placing the fuse in the negative leg.

So what about this? Inverters connected on the left, battery banks on the front. The busbar will be covered in heat shrink tube and silicone boots will cover all the lugs bolted to the busbar that should cover pretty much everything that could conduct, but
xxx
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may also run it inside some pvc trunking like this.
 

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Folks - posted on another thread as well.
Seems best bet to stay away from 280ah batteries due to the "renewed" ones being sold as "Grade A new."
I was planning to order LF280k "Grade A" new, but wondering if getting EVE 314 or Hithium 314 is smarter to reduce this possibility.
Seems like a lot of unknowns when ordering from China.
 
Folks - posted on another thread as well.
Seems best bet to stay away from 280ah batteries due to the "renewed" ones being sold as "Grade A new."
I was planning to order LF280k "Grade A" new, but wondering if getting EVE 314 or Hithium 314 is smarter to reduce this possibility.
Seems like a lot of unknowns when ordering from China.
That's why it's a good idea to go with a reputable seller, although, that guarantees nothing.
 
Kornbread, what's your thoughts in the single stud vs the double screw type terminal? Seems more contact with the flat top of the double screw version. If the weld quality is bad from a vendor, seems like it wouldn't matter either way.
 
Kornbread, what's your thoughts in the single stud vs the double screw type terminal? Seems more contact with the flat top of the double screw version. If the weld quality is bad from a vendor, seems like it wouldn't matter either way.
Bad welds aside, the double screw terminal has, hands down, more contact area. I've wondered about this myself but IIRC, it was a video by Off Grid Garage where he tested a battery of single stud cells for heat generated while maxing them out and found no issues, that pretty much suppressed any concerns with the single stud.
 

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