I may or may not have told him something along those lines. Mostly because he's buying at least 16 to test. For me.It's only money. Can't take it with you.![]()
I think the average addict will jump to the next new breakthrough technology before that happens ...I'm still in the camp that the average solar enthusiast will age out their LiFeo4 cells long before they cycle out.
Agree. Has to be something more environmentally friendly to manufacture, and more energy, space, weight, and cost efficient.I think the average addict will jump to the next new breakthrough technology before that happens ...
Me too, but it would be much neater and easy to place the fuse between the bms and busbar. It's an ungrounded low voltage dc system, what would be the difference?I always fuse the pos.
I'm not sure if it makes a difference, the fuse breaking the circuit during a short is the goal.Me too, but it would be much neater and easy to place the fuse between the bms and busbar. It's an ungrounded low voltage dc system, what would be the difference?
That's why it's a good idea to go with a reputable seller, although, that guarantees nothing.Folks - posted on another thread as well.
Seems best bet to stay away from 280ah batteries due to the "renewed" ones being sold as "Grade A new."
I was planning to order LF280k "Grade A" new, but wondering if getting EVE 314 or Hithium 314 is smarter to reduce this possibility.
Seems like a lot of unknowns when ordering from China.
Bad welds aside, the double screw terminal has, hands down, more contact area. I've wondered about this myself but IIRC, it was a video by Off Grid Garage where he tested a battery of single stud cells for heat generated while maxing them out and found no issues, that pretty much suppressed any concerns with the single stud.Kornbread, what's your thoughts in the single stud vs the double screw type terminal? Seems more contact with the flat top of the double screw version. If the weld quality is bad from a vendor, seems like it wouldn't matter either way.