diy solar

diy solar

Home made tracker ideas?

I have one of these Maslow CNC kits I bought years ago and assembled but haven’t ever really used. It has two nice geared stepper motors controlled with an arduino. I need to cut an assembly with it to use convert it into tracked solar since I never use it.
 
@G20
So I just realized linear actuators are wired like this:
Untitled.jpg

When the actuator fully extends it hits a limit switch, and stops. Then eventually the polarity is reversed and the diode on the open limit switch will allow reverse current, however with a sizable voltage/power drop until the actuator move out of the limit then the diode is bypassed.

This is a cause of the large step from the limits. I order some schottky diodes to replace the the built in diodes to see if I can minimize this.
 
@G20
So I just realized linear actuators are wired like this:
View attachment 99615

When the actuator fully extends it hits a limit switch, and stops. Then eventually the polarity is reversed and the diode on the open limit switch will allow reverse current, however with a sizable voltage/power drop until the actuator move out of the limit then the diode is bypassed.

This is a cause of the large step from the limits. I order some schottky diodes to replace the the built in diodes to see if I can minimize this.
The limit switches in these can be used this way, but it's better to design the system mechanically so it never reaches the limit switches in normal operation. That would eliminate the big step away from the limit switches as well. In most cases all this requires is moving the connecting point closer to the actuator, and that should be easier than opening it up and replacing the diodes.
 
The limit switches in these can be used this way, but it's better to design the system mechanically so it never reaches the limit switches in normal operation. That would eliminate the big step away from the limit switches as well. In most cases all this requires is moving the connecting point closer to the actuator, and that should be easier than opening it up and replacing the diodes.

That's a thought. I could easily add mechanical stops. I guess the only thing I'm concerned with is the motor will be stalled burning power in it's winding while in it's far limits. Im not so much worried about the power being burned off, just what damage is potentially being done to the motor.
 
That's a thought. I could easily add mechanical stops. I guess the only thing I'm concerned with is the motor will be stalled burning power in it's winding while in it's far limits. Im not so much worried about the power being burned off, just what damage is potentially being done to the motor.

Don't add mechanical stops, you would harm the motor. I'm suggesting that you design the range of motion so that it goes through its whole day's worth of movement and never hits the end stops, nor any other obstacle. It should be free to move further to hit the limit switches if, for any reason, something goes wrong.
 
Don't add mechanical stops, you would harm the motor. I'm suggesting that you design the range of motion so that it goes through its whole day's worth of movement and never hits the end stops, nor any other obstacle. It should be free to move further to hit the limit switches if, for any reason, something goes wrong.

That's actually very difficult (possibly impossible) with my design. My design is passive, it relies on two panels wire in opposing polarities to create an equilibrium.
+12v
0v
-12v

When the equilibrium is met (both panels equally illuminated) the voltage is 0. When the sun moves and illuminates one panel more than the other the voltage will go either pos, or neg causing the actuator to chase the new equilibrium point.

In the far limits the sun is still going to illuminate one panel over the other thus causing the new equilibrium point to be out of reach mechanically.
 
Alright I removed the 1n4001 diodes from the limit switches and replaced them with 1n5819 Schottkys. This should lower the voltage drop a good bit.

I'll observe it functioning tomorrow and see if it gets out of the far limits quicker.
 
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Alright fellas, the Schottky diode replacement was a success! The tracker now gets out of the limits much better/sooner.

This is the first east to west movement of the day with the Schottkys :
20220624_122627.jpg


This was the first movement with the old diodes:

fist tilt old diodes.jpg
 
Alright fellas, the Schottky diode replacement was a success! The tracker now gets out of the limits much better/sooner.

This is the first east to west movement of the day with the Schottkys :
View attachment 99921


This was the first movement with the old diodes:

View attachment 99922

Coolness !!!

Is the travel distance any longer, shorter or the same as the original single panel version now ?

Is there any travel potential still left on the table or are the morning and evening shadows now the limiting factor ?
 
Coolness !!!

Is the travel distance any longer, shorter or the same as the original single panel version now ?

Yes its the same around 31ish degrees on either side.

Is there any travel potential still left on the table or are the morning and evening shadows now the limiting factor ?

I think now that It can get out of the far limits easier, I could adjust the top mount of the actuator in slightly to get more travel.

But I think yes my shadows are my limiting factor. I could probably get a little more out of the west. Could raise the bottom actuator mount up a notch.

I might play with this, but first I want to wire everything nicely for permanent use. Also need to bury the PV cable running across my yard to the solar shed.

Someone will certainly scream about this but I'm just using low voltage 12awg landscaping wire :) But It's all copper, uv/water resistant, can be direct buried, and super cheap. Manufacture rates it as 150v
 
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Someone will certainly scream about this but I'm just using low voltage 12awg landscaping wire :) But It's all copper, uv/water resistant, can be direct buried, and super cheap. Manufacture rates it as 150v

If your landscape wires leak, you could always use them harvest night crawlers after good rain storms !!! =)
 
What kind of solar production increases do you achieve with this setup. Very cool BTW.
 
In Washington State and kind of down in a hole, sun wise and really in the winter. Built this around 5 years ago. Solar here is for back up when grid is down. The four corner panels are grid tied to the solar input only and NOT to the power company. The 4 larger panels supply the batteries. The two stationary unites supply the shop and also the battery backup system. This tracker is an old C band tracker that is rotated mechanically with timers. Just forget about all the antennas in the second video ?
 

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Is your tracker still in service and if so, do you have any updates to add ?

Also, have you thought about using pillow bearings ?
 
when you place the whole structure on this satellite motor, your actuator will follow the sun in orbit in two axes and with one motor
(Satellite Push Rod DiSEqC Motor Satellite Antenna Satellite Pole Base Satellite Push Rod DiSEqC Motor)
 

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