diy solar

diy solar

How are you guys wiring up a single phase 240 with dual 120 legs?

Bleedingblue

Solar Enthusiast
Joined
May 12, 2020
Messages
537
Having a unit that only has a neutral/ Hot/ Ground on input and output means no split phase 120v/120v but only 240 volt right?


This is the unit in question. I am using 4 of them.



Voltage range on input is 120v-280v

Output voltage I have is 240.

I have a transformer to take it from 240v and make it 120v split from the units.


Now do these hybrid units take 120v input from the grid and make it 240v on the output? I assume the PV will always be 240 as well.

If not how do I get 240 from the grid to the units when their is only 1 leg for input on the hybrid inverter?
 
If you need 120/240 split phase, why are you not looking for an inverter that will output split phase?

Put your two hot legs on the AC input if you want 240v in, but be sure the circuit is isolated from the chassis, internally. The link you posted has a contact for questions form at the bottom. I suggest you ask them, as well.
 
If you need 120/240 split phase, why are you not looking for an inverter that will output split phase?

Put your two hot legs on the AC input if you want 240v in, but be sure the circuit is isolated from the chassis, internally. The link you posted has a contact for questions form at the bottom. I suggest you ask them, as well.


Well when I ordered them I told him I was in north America and he asked me if we had 240v current which I responded yes we do have that here. So I ended up getting single 240 volt units not split 120 to make 240v.

I've contemplated throwing these in the ditch, trust me. Its really aggrevating.


So your saying take my 50 amp dual pole breaker and run wire from each leg to the unit and twist them together and screw them down in the single 240 input? Just clarifying
 
There is confusion here.. STOP and be 100% certain BEFORE DOING ANYMORE !!!

North America:
240VAC/60Hz SPLIT PHASE, 120VAC/60Hz SINGLE PHASE.
RED = Hot-1, Black = Hot-2, WHITE = Neutral, Green/Bare = Ground/

Europe & Asia:
can be 208-220VAC/50Hz SINGLE PHASE
There are variations depending on Nation

240v_ac_split-phase_wiring_3_wire_USA.jpg
3Wire4Wire.png
 
There is confusion here.. STOP and be 100% certain BEFORE DOING ANYMORE !!!

North America:
240VAC/60Hz SPLIT PHASE, 120VAC/60Hz SINGLE PHASE.
RED = Hot-1, Black = Hot-2, WHITE = Neutral, Green/Bare = Ground/

Europe & Asia:
can be 208-220VAC/50Hz SINGLE PHASE
There are variations depending on Nation

240v_ac_split-phase_wiring_3_wire_USA.jpg
3Wire4Wire.png


It is just a 3 wire hook up.


Ground / hot / neutral

Both input and output. All 240 volt
 
Make sure you have a dry ABC dry extinguisher on hand.
120V is 3 wire. Ground is bare or green. Black = HOT, White = Neutral.

Found the owners Manual with installation instructions. What a horrid document.
All it says on Page 6 below wih regards to AC wiring. That is SAD.
Manual is attached as a PDF.

1612101829228.png
 

Attachments

  • revoii_series.pdf
    380.7 KB · Views: 10
Last edited:
It is possible (I have not idea) that the design is like this....
1. the 120-280 volt AC input is converted to DC to charge a DC bus
2. the battery voltage is used or converted to charge a DC bus
3. the AC output is always output of the inverter stage

If this is the case, 120v AC in can charge the DC bus the same as 240v in can charge the DC but, but with just double the amps.
 
Make sure you have a dry ABC dry extinguisher on hand.
120V is 3 wire. Ground is bare or green. Black = HOT, White = Neutral.


Yes I know 120 is a 3 wire set up. That's why I'm on here asking either how do I feed these units 240? Or do these units take 120v in and and have 240 out?
 
It is possible (I have not idea) that the design is like this....
1. the 120-280 volt AC input is converted to DC to charge a DC bus
2. the battery voltage is used or converted to charge a DC bus
3. the AC output is always output of the inverter stage

If this is the case, 120v AC in can charge the DC bus the same as 240v in can charge the DC but, but with just double the amps.


Ok that sounds reasonable but wondering if something goes poof up in smoke? Lol

I'm wondering when the sun is down or cloudy and the solar panels are not making any power that the units are getting 120v in and the output would be 120v.
That 120v would then be fed to my 37.5kw transformer and the output from it would be 60v on each leg lol
 
Ok that sounds reasonable but wondering if something goes poof up in smoke? Lol

I'm wondering when the sun is down or cloudy and the solar panels are not making any power that the units are getting 120v in and the output would be 120v.
That 120v would then be fed to my 37.5kw transformer and the output from it would be 60v on each leg lol
That should be easy to test for without solar connected, just power from 120v and see what the output does.
 
Make sure you have a dry ABC dry extinguisher on hand.
120V is 3 wire. Ground is bare or green. Black = HOT, White = Neutral.

Found the owners Manual with installation instructions. What a horrid document.
All it says on Page 6 below wih regards to AC wiring. That is SAD.
Manual is attached as a PDF.

View attachment 35313



Yes their whole manual is confusing. No one wants to touch it around here. Ive had several electricians look at it and say no thanks. Solar installer installed it wrong the first time and don't want to touch it again. Another in the area doesn't wanna bother with it.


I have the solar panels installed and are around 390-400 volts on average. I have 36-390 watts panels (new) and still using 12-335 panels from previous set up.

I've been looking around for the same kind of hybrid units that can take that kind of voltage and watts from the PV side and have at least a 5500 watt output.

I also have almost 60,000 kwh of lithium that I haven't even set up because I'm trying to square away this problem and the updating bms problem.


Hopefully I can get some money back from solar tax refund to invest in some new hybrid inverters. But no clue which one suits me. All of em im seeing is around 150 volt from solar which is too small, most are single leg 230 which is a pain in the butt like what I'm dealing with. No auto gen just a bunch of little stuff
 
By looking at your pics it is clear the unit is single phase. You have 120-280 single phase input with 240 single phase output. I would not even mess with these and I totally understand why the electrician wants nothing to do with it. Buy the right equipment for what you are trying to do and avoid fire I jury etc.

Greg
 
Yes their whole manual is confusing. No one wants to touch it around here. Ive had several electricians look at it and say no thanks. Solar installer installed it wrong the first time and don't want to touch it again. Another in the area doesn't wanna bother with it.


I have the solar panels installed and are around 390-400 volts on average. I have 36-390 watts panels (new) and still using 12-335 panels from previous set up.

I've been looking around for the same kind of hybrid units that can take that kind of voltage and watts from the PV side and have at least a 5500 watt output.

I also have almost 60,000 kwh of lithium that I haven't even set up because I'm trying to square away this problem and the updating bms problem.


Hopefully I can get some money back from solar tax refund to invest in some new hybrid inverters. But no clue which one suits me. All of em im seeing is around 150 volt from solar which is too small, most are single leg 230 which is a pain in the butt like what I'm dealing with. No auto gen just a bunch of little stuff
Your 400v PV input is set up for a specific type of inverter, like grid tie. Are you going to Grid Tie? Can you rewire your panels so you have lower PV voltage?
 
By looking at your pics it is clear the unit is single phase. You have 120-280 single phase input with 240 single phase output. I would not even mess with these and I totally understand why the electrician wants nothing to do with it. Buy the right equipment for what you are trying to do and avoid fire I jury etc.

Greg


Do you know of any units do what these can do?

48 volt
Need dual legs of 120v output
Need dual legs of 120v input
auto gen start
PV input of around 4500-5kw
PV voltage of around 450 at least
5500 KW inverter
Able to work and communicate with lithium and BMS
Manages power from Solar, Battery, Grid, Load, and Generator simultaneously
Probably gonna have to buy multiple units so able to communicate between units
 
What's the problem here?

Isn't this a EU spec unit? L, N and G, 230VAC/50Hz is normal.

His installation description is often how Victrons get installed in North America.

Set to 60Hz/240VAC singe phase output, feed into autotransformer and output 120/240VAC split phase.
 
To my eye I also agree that this is NOT 240V/60HZ Split Phase for North America but rather 200-220/50Hz Single Phase.
I'm with the electricians and solar installer, this is only going to result in something completely unpleasant.
Get a PROPER 240V Split Phase output system and work with that and make it right.

MPP-Solar, Growatt, and several others are available for North American standards as well as European Standards,
Three of the more popular ones used by members here.

 
Your 400v PV input is set up for a specific type of inverter, like grid tie. Are you going to Grid Tie? Can you rewire your panels so you have lower PV voltage?
I could I guess. I'd have to hire the solar guys to come out here again to redo it again. The voltage of the panels are something like 48.48v.


Here are the panels right here.

 
What's the problem here?

Isn't this a EU spec unit? L, N and G, 230VAC/50Hz is normal.

His installation description is often how Victrons get installed in North America.

Set to 60Hz/240VAC singe phase output, feed into autotransformer and output 120/240VAC split phase.


This is a 240/ 60 hertz model

What I'm wanting is to utilize the AC input from the grid along with the PV input and batteries all in conjunction.
How do I run 240 to the units with 2 legs of 120?
 
Back
Top