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diy solar

diy solar

How close to failure is this MPPT+PV package and is there a way to protect against high voltage?

I would use the IMO, I'm not a huge fan of MC4's mixed from different manufacturers. Too many differences for a good connection and over time the connection can fail with mismatched parts. Between panels where it's a string in series is OK because all the panels would have the same MC4. It is when you make the connections at the string positive and negative where a problem can occur. There is not a standard the connectors are manufactured to.

As for how to run the conduit, I always prefer gravity to shed water so I would probably have a 180 degree bend from above to enter and and exit on the bottom. If you do not have that option, then you can use a Myers hub fitting like I have at the top of the box in this photo with a threaded pvc fitting. The Myers hub will have an oring on the face for sealing purposes. https://www.grainger.com/product/52...I8f286J0LZ5F_m7PrLcaAkumEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

PV array box.jpg
 
Old_Skewler said:
I will have the 3/4" PVC conduit running along the way with a pair of 8AWG and the ground cable in it. I just don't see how to physically add the disconnect at eye level mounted on the wall and having the conduit coming from the roof.
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One of my city inspectors rejected exposed horizontal runs of PVC. Said only vertical (from box to under ground). So I replaced with rigid.

I have a 75' run of 2" exposed along concrete wall, which I ran some data wire in. It expands and contracts in the sun, going wavy and then pulling a conduit body to the point of breaking. It also gets sunburned.

I've since seen gasketed slip-joints for PVC.
 
Hedges said:
One of my city inspectors rejected exposed horizontal runs of PVC. Said only vertical (from box to under ground). So I replaced with rigid.
Click to expand...

Yep, always hated seeing that.

Hedges said:
I have a 75' run of 2" exposed along concrete wall, which I ran some data wire in. It expands and contracts in the sun, going wavy and then pulling a conduit body to the point of breaking. It also gets sunburned.

I've since seen gasketed slip-joints for PVC.
Click to expand...
I have one on my array, it is under the box with the SPD and breakers. Concrete base doesn't give much. You can see the slip joint in this photo. I'm a little particular how I do things.


MT Solar mount.jpg
 
Zwy said:
better to combine strings at the SCC
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That’s what I did. I seem to have electricity.
Old_Skewler said:
What do you think would be easier to mount on the exterior house wall: a terminal-type DC disconnect (similar to IMO) or a MC4 -type DC disconnect (similar to DIHOOL)?
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Since IMO is being referenced here as a known serviceable device and is inexpensive I would pick that regardless; never mind the fail points are less, and the waterproofing more dependable.
 
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Zwy said:
I would use the IMO, I'm not a huge fan of MC4's mixed from different manufacturers. Too many differences for a good connection and over time the connection can fail with mismatched parts.
Click to expand...
Got it and understood. (y)

Zwy said:
As for how to run the conduit, I always prefer gravity to shed water so I would probably have a 180 degree bend from above to enter and and exit on the bottom.
Click to expand...
Got it! I can easily avoid the horizontal run (the original idea was purely aesthetics) and simply do a vertical conduit run down the house.

Zwy said:
then you can use a Myers hub fitting like I have at the top of the box in this photo with a threaded pvc fitting. The Myers hub will have an oring on the face for sealing purposes. https://www.grainger.com/product/52...I8f286J0LZ5F_m7PrLcaAkumEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
Click to expand...
If I have a vertical conduit running down the house, will I be able to place the IMO centered with the conduit? And will this Myers Hub work for this condition or another type of hub fitting?




1689862335723.png
 
Hedges said:
One of my city inspectors rejected exposed horizontal runs of PVC. Said only vertical (from box to under ground). So I replaced with rigid.
Click to expand...
Yes, I guess it was originally a good idea in my case for aesthetics purposes but now I see it is not a good idea. I want to keep it simple and easy for the install, so I'll bring the PVC conduit straight down the house.

(y)
 
Old_Skewler said:
Got it and understood. (y)


Got it! I can easily avoid the horizontal run (the original idea was purely aesthetics) and simply do a vertical conduit run down the house.


If I have a vertical conduit running down the house, will I be able to place the IMO centered with the conduit? And will this Myers Hub work for this condition or another type of hub fitting?




View attachment 158397
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Not centered, the knockouts are on each side. Could a hole be drilled in the center where you indicate? Probably not, that is where the screws are located to hold the front cover to the base.
 
Zwy said:
Not centered, the knockouts are on each side. Could a hole be drilled in the center where you indicate? Probably not, that is where the screws are located to hold the front cover to the base.
Click to expand...
Understood.

How about the connection between the PVC conduit and the drilled hole? Should I use the same Myers hub fitting or another type?
 
Zwy said:
Myers hub on the box with a threaded PVC fitting. Sealant on the threads before threading it into the Myers hub.
Click to expand...

(y) (y)

I'll wait to buy the PVC conduit before buying the hub... likely I'll go with a 3/4" PVC but if I'll just be running a 8AWG set + ground maybe 1/2" PVC will do it.

Thank you!
 
Zwy said:
Myers hub on the box with a threaded PVC fitting. Sealant on the threads before threading it into the Myers hub.
Click to expand...
I'm committing to the 32a IMO switches. After seeing what goes into installing them and multiple advocates for them. also price is right. I haven't seen much better. Also I'll be able to use the same ones for all 4 or 5 arrays. About 1/3rd the total wattage are completely different panels but will still work perfectly for that.
 
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