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How to ground (or not) isolated lfp battery in van

Jeanne

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Nov 4, 2019
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I’m installing an isolated solar system in my van. Renogy equipment-100 watt panel, 50ah lfp battery with Mppt controller and various fuses. This will be for a dedicated load of a small 12v fridge/freezer. So, I’ll be charging with solar only. Do I need to ground the negative battery terminal to the van?
 
U prob wont get this answer from others:
A UL458 inverter doesnt require ground. Complicated yada yada about its internal makeup.

Because UL458 is 1 of only 2 UL listed off-grid inverters. Theres the 458 which is mobile off-grid like a boat or RV. Then theres the UL1741 stationary off-grid like foe a cabin, shed or home.

Ur lucky cuz the UL458's r a lot more available. Like I buy AIMS mostly but of their UL listed inverters, only 1 is 1741 with rest being 458.

Of course caring about UL listing is up to u. For myself, Ive become the solar UL YODA. Thats cuz everything solar in my county must be UL listed.

Btw u wont need much for ur project. A 2500 or 3k inverter would give u some padding and still be cheap. I would go 24v battery bank... thats my preference.
 
Grounding to the frame serves at least two purpose - so you'd need to think about these / provide more info:
1) A path for fault (short to the frame) to be able to trip a breaker. If the cables between the battery and fridge run through the frame and could ever be in danger of creating a "hot skin" condition, then I suggest grounding it
2) Create a reference ground for all systems so you don't have e.g. static charge conditions between equipment (shock hazard)

There's really no harm in grounding all systems to the same frame. When in doubt, I'd ground it. Make sure the ground cable is sufficiently large to carry enough current in a fault condition to trip the breaker/fuse/OCPD.
 
Grounding to the frame serves at least two purpose - so you'd need to think about these / provide more info:
1) A path for fault (short to the frame) to be able to trip a breaker. If the cables between the battery and fridge run through the frame and could ever be in danger of creating a "hot skin" condition, then I suggest grounding it
2) Create a reference ground for all systems so you don't have e.g. static charge conditions between equipment (shock hazard)

There's really no harm in grounding all systems to the same frame. When in doubt, I'd ground it. Make sure the ground cable is sufficiently large to carry enough current in a fault condition to trip the breaker/fuse/OCPD.
Grounding to the frame serves at least two purpose - so you'd need to think about these / provide more info:
1) A path for fault (short to the frame) to be able to trip a breaker. If the cables between the battery and fridge run through the frame and could ever be in danger of creating a "hot skin" condition, then I suggest grounding it
2) Create a reference ground for all systems so you don't have e.g. static charge conditions between equipment (shock hazard)

There's really no harm in grounding all systems to the same frame. When in doubt, I'd ground it. Make sure the ground cable is sufficiently large to carry enough current in a fault condition to trip the breaker/fuse/OCPD.
U prob wont get this answer from others:
A UL458 inverter doesnt require ground. Complicated yada yada about its internal makeup.

Because UL458 is 1 of only 2 UL listed off-grid inverters. Theres the 458 which is mobile off-grid like a boat or RV. Then theres the UL1741 stationary off-grid like foe a cabin, shed or home.

Ur lucky cuz the UL458's r a lot more available. Like I buy AIMS mostly but of their UL listed inverters, only 1 is 1741 with rest being 458.

Of course caring about UL listing is up to u. For myself, Ive become the solar UL YODA. Thats cuz everything solar in my county must be UL listed.

Btw u wont need much for ur project. A 2500 or 3k inverter would give u some padding and still be cheap. I would go 24v battery bank... thats my preference.
Thank you! I don’t have an inverter. This is for a van not a house. Lead acid staring battery already grounded to the chassis. Isolated lithium battery with controller and solar panel. Super simple.
 
Grounding to the frame serves at least two purpose - so you'd need to think about these / provide more info:
1) A path for fault (short to the frame) to be able to trip a breaker. If the cables between the battery and fridge run through the frame and could ever be in danger of creating a "hot skin" condition, then I suggest grounding it
2) Create a reference ground for all systems so you don't have e.g. static charge conditions between equipment (shock hazard)

There's really no harm in grounding all systems to the same frame. When in doubt, I'd ground it. Make sure the ground cable is sufficiently large to carry enough current in a fault condition to trip the breaker/fuse/OCPD.
Ah very interesting about the static shock situation. Thank you!
The ground will not travel through the skin. Just from negative battery terminal to 12v plug. OR I can pull the positive and negative from the controller as there are terminals for this.
 
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