How to turn on daly smart bms without lightboard?

Coop

New Member
View attachment 48633After searching a bunch of threads here, I found my BMS had different ports. The two pins circled above turned mine on. 100amp / 4s / 12v recently arrived from China. So they must have changed the boards again.

Connecting the cables did not work for this BMS, and I spent an hour of frustration figuring it out.
Thank you !!!
Just received 4pcs of the same 100Ah 12vdc 4S Smart BMS's and same connector configuration.

First one turned on by connecting P- and B- and worked for 2hrs, went offline after I disconnected it from the battery (balance leads first)
Then it would not turn on, not shorting out the P- / B-. Not by adding a charge when connected. Finally threw in the towel, and
took the next one.
This one, nothing by shorting P-/B- or adding a charge (like lined out in the google translator paper that came with the shipment)(also instructions for a 16S bms, not the 4S version)
Now i was getting a bit upset and started to search here and there, as the bms's both showed 10.55vdc on pack + / bms P- so i tought it
was a bad balance lead cluster and replaced that one first, and no matter if balance leads were connected or not it showed 10.55-11.55vdc
but no current and the bt-dongle would not turn on.

Then I found this thread and your answer. Took a small screwdriver and shorted out hte opins in your picture, and voila! the bms came to life.
Thank you once more !

Now I can continue with my project.
 

vk2emp

Solar Enthusiast
I ran into the same roadblock with the silly temperature sensor. I'm in Australia (Sydney) so temperatures rarely get below 5 degrees C. With the 100A 4S model I spent a good 3 hours trying to get it to activate. Finally tried plugging in the bluetooth and temperature sensor, and then applying a charge and it fired right up.

I decided to upgrade to the 250A model as I had thrown an inverter into the mix, which would over load the 100A model. Knew the pitfalls and had the 250A Daly up and running in 5 minutes :)
 

ken morgan

Solar Addict
That doesn't always work, I know, I went thru all of that, tried B- to P-, charging, everything. It would not turn on. That's why I started the thread. https://diysolarforum.com/threads/daly-24v-8s-initiation-and-software.18644/

Also, you should have included how to power the BMS down, too many have locked or fried the Daly BMS by unhooking the B- first. It should be unplug the balance leads first.
shit i unhooked the balance board first and mine is locked or fried... as the bluetooth won't turn on untilt he rest of shit thing turns on, its hard to tell which is screwing up...
 

ken morgan

Solar Addict
Thank you !!!
Just received 4pcs of the same 100Ah 12vdc 4S Smart BMS's and same connector configuration.

First one turned on by connecting P- and B- and worked for 2hrs, went offline after I disconnected it from the battery (balance leads first)
Then it would not turn on, not shorting out the P- / B-. Not by adding a charge when connected. Finally threw in the towel, and
took the next one.
This one, nothing by shorting P-/B- or adding a charge (like lined out in the google translator paper that came with the shipment)(also instructions for a 16S bms, not the 4S version)
Now i was getting a bit upset and started to search here and there, as the bms's both showed 10.55vdc on pack + / bms P- so i tought it
was a bad balance lead cluster and replaced that one first, and no matter if balance leads were connected or not it showed 10.55-11.55vdc
but no current and the bt-dongle would not turn on.

Then I found this thread and your answer. Took a small screwdriver and shorted out hte opins in your picture, and voila! the bms came to life.
Thank you once more !

Now I can continue with my project.
thats great when the unit you buy has the two pins out where you can reach them and apply a screwdriver to them. the 48 volt 200 amp models do not offer this so if you manage to set your ettings wrong, in a fashion where the unit does not fire up for whatever reason you cannot get it to turn on via shorting the two main terminals and yo do not have the connectors to short to get it to turn on. you have a worthelss lump of aluminum and pcb board. it basically worthless as the instruction manual is worthless. DALY...want to sell something to the US in mass? get translators that actually are engineers, so that they can translate your worthless manual into something other than cat scratch. and please just stop on the racist comments...sales and service are sails and service... connect with your customers or die as a company.
 

ereams65

Solar Enthusiast
shit i unhooked the balance board first and mine is locked or fried... as the bluetooth won't turn on untilt he rest of shit thing turns on, its hard to tell which is screwing up...
It's probably ok. Daly's are very specific to the connection process or they go into "protection mode", i.e. asleep. Start from the beginning; Confirm your voltages on the lead wire connector pin and if that's correct insert into BMS. next step; Check resistance between P- and B-, there should be some but not a large number. Next, connect the B- to the battery. Check your voltages at both the battery main neg/pos AND the battery pos and the P- on the BMS...these should be close, but don't have to be precise. Connect your charger and apply a charge. Now, if your charger is one of the "sensing" type, it probably will not turn on and you won't be able to find the BMS in your BT phone. If so, you need to use a Desktop DC Power Supply set to charge voltage on the BMS P- and the battery Positive, while your normal charger is still connected. In a couple of seconds, you should be able to see the BT show up in the app. NOTE: make sure you close out the app from your phone entirely when the BMS doesn't show up. By doing the above, when you restart the app it should be there.
 

vk2emp

Solar Enthusiast
If you have an "intelligent" (aka hobby) charger that wont start if it cannot sense a battery, tell your charger its a lead acid battery, and then set the charge voltage to 0.6 volts above your battery voltage (assuming this won't exceed the batteries maximum charge voltage aka 14.6v for lifepo4). That kick the bms on.

If your battery voltage is too close to its fully charged voltage, connect a load to it (bypassing the bms) and drain it a bit. Then trick the bms with the lead acid setting.

Either way once you see the charger showing its delivering a current shut it off and check to see if the BMS is alive.
 

ken morgan

Solar Addict
It's probably ok. Daly's are very specific to the connection process or they go into "protection mode", i.e. asleep. Start from the beginning; Confirm your voltages on the lead wire connector pin and if that's correct insert into BMS. next step; Check resistance between P- and B-, there should be some but not a large number. Next, connect the B- to the battery. Check your voltages at both the battery main neg/pos AND the battery pos and the P- on the BMS...these should be close, but don't have to be precise. Connect your charger and apply a charge. Now, if your charger is one of the "sensing" type, it probably will not turn on and you won't be able to find the BMS in your BT phone. If so, you need to use a Desktop DC Power Supply set to charge voltage on the BMS P- and the battery Positive, while your normal charger is still connected. In a couple of seconds, you should be able to see the BT show up in the app. NOTE: make sure you close out the app from your phone entirely when the BMS doesn't show up. By doing the above, when you restart the app it should be there.
went through all of that... this whole shorting the two terminals at 48 is BS.. the spark it throws is bad for electronics..; period, cut and dried. anybody that engineered that is a fucking hack. the 48 version has no way to jump start it other than shorting the two negative terminals.. flat out BS the unit should come with a built in start button sorry but its BS. I just ordered two as the price is cheap so that I can play with them and explore just how F'd up they are... maybe just maybe its a single unit issue, but I highly doubt it and if after examination they are as f'ed up as I believe, I will order a 123, chargery or some other BMS. Something has to work within reason and shit that does not work is just not cool..
 

corp9592

New Member
I just wanted to tell you guys that I bought 2 units of 40/20A 4S Daly Smart BMS and I could start one of them by just plugging the charger, and for the other unit I had to short the 2 pins next to the "monitor" connection.
All in all, a little bit strange. It would be better if there was a standard or coherent behavior everybody could rely on.
 

walter-

Solar Enthusiast
I had bought 3 250A smart BMS and at least they worked consistently;-).
Both your methods activated them....
 

ken morgan

Solar Addict
too bring this to full circle, I ordered the light board and was able to fire up the two i ordered. I then managed to fry one of those when the inrush current from the inverter toasted it. Hooked up unit, verified all connections, fired it up with light board, hooked up solar, charges no issues, then flipped the breaker for the inverter...poof magic blue smoke leaking out of unit.

lesson here use a resistor between the inverter and the battery with a jumper to charge the inverter and flip your breaker to the BMS after its charged.

Last one is working for the last month or so, but it is rather worrisome that they are so fragile and so poorly supported on documentation.
 

HighTechLab

Small Business Owner
I then managed to fry one of those when the inrush current from the inverter toasted it.
Ken, I am a vendor of the Daly BMS units in the USA - To this day I've never seen a BMS ruined by short current or inrush. Can you please let me know which model it was that you had let out the magic smoke? If you happen to be in the USA, could I possibly get the damaged unit from you for failure analysis? The main issues we see with Daly is documentation issues (including activation), tough to use software & bluetooth app issues.
 

ken morgan

Solar Addict
Ken, I am a vendor of the Daly BMS units in the USA - To this day I've never seen a BMS ruined by short current or inrush. Can you please let me know which model it was that you had let out the magic smoke? If you happen to be in the USA, could I possibly get the damaged unit from you for failure analysis? The main issues we see with Daly is documentation issues (including activation), tough to use software & bluetooth app issues.
wish I had posted that last week I would have sent you two of them :) I live in japan so I ordered mine directly from china and they are the 16S 48 volt version. I have a photo(s) of the messages that were displayed on them. Basically from what i and the vendor could determine, one toasted when the BMS shut off charging/discharging from the PV array while under heavy charge. (the one that says AFE collect chip as one of the error messages.) It did not hurt the SCC but flamed the BMS, and the inverter also had a error message of a voltage spike. The other toasted when i engaged the battery switch between the inverter, and the BMS without pre-charging the inverters caps.

The original unit which I got with my batteries and I thought I had bricked is fine while the two i ordered afterword's both toasted. it is what it is. below are the two screen shots of the BMS messages.

BTW the BMS that is currently working I used a resistor to precharge and have had no issues even after several restarts while working on the system, i just precharge it each time now.
 

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ken morgan

Solar Addict
Ken, I am a vendor of the Daly BMS units in the USA - To this day I've never seen a BMS ruined by short current or inrush. Can you please let me know which model it was that you had let out the magic smoke? If you happen to be in the USA, could I possibly get the damaged unit from you for failure analysis? The main issues we see with Daly is documentation issues (including activation), tough to use software & bluetooth app issues.
Ahh and not bagging on the product you move but they do need better documentation. thats a fact and we all know it. thats why chargery and the other small popular one thats being sold in the states are taking off in sales... a manual that actually has data, is written in way that is understandable and lastly...is correct. these are very important to a DIYer. I should have known better about the pre charge resistor... hell I ran a custom car shop in the 90's and every electronic gadget you can imagine that took a lot of current almost all of them came with a charging resistor easy example is a 1 farad cap for audio back in the day, they all came with the resistor and instructions form the factory.
 

bgflyguy

Solar Enthusiast
I just skimmed the thread and didnt see this anywhere, but I'll add that I think you have to charge at 14v or greater. I was trying to wake up the bms at 13.5v and it didnt work.
 

Just John

Photon Sorcerer
I just skimmed the thread and didnt see this anywhere, but I'll add that I think you have to charge at 14v or greater. I was trying to wake up the bms at 13.5v and it didnt work.
You have to actually have current going into the battery for a charge to activate the BMS. So if your battery was close to 13.5v, you likely didn't have any current trying to flow.
 

bgflyguy

Solar Enthusiast
Could be, but it was charging directly on the terminal. Not sure the whole story, but it's a bit more than connecting it to a charger, and it started working once I bumped it to 14v.

Just another thing to try if you are having problems.
 

Just John

Photon Sorcerer
Could be, but it was charging directly on the terminal. Not sure the whole story, but it's a bit more than connecting it to a charger, and it started working once I bumped it to 14v.

Just another thing to try if you are having problems.
I'm not sure what you are saying, you must supply a current through the BMS to activate by charging.
I have 3 Daly, and no problems.

 

bgflyguy

Solar Enthusiast
I connected the charger directly to the battery and it showed current. Then i moved it to the p- on the bms and it didn't wake it up until I upped the voltage.
 
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