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How would you builgs this buss bar?

NEWYORKHILLBILLY

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How would you build this to make sure it would carry the the load.
Her is Situation I ordered a marine post mount fuse for my rv install. when i have it mounted to to battery post its to high for the lid to close. so i came up with the solution of inverting it upside down and extending it from the post to the side of the battery (as pictured ). The buss bar will be 3 1/4" long .I made this mock up one out of a piece of L bracket just to make sure it would work. I have some 1/8" aluminum i could probably double it up or would i be better ordering some copper? How do i determine the right size for the load. its 2 6 volts deep cycles wired in series running a 1500 watt 12 v inverter. fuse will be 200 amps. I thinking i should over size for 300amps.
 

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Copper will have the least resistance, aluminum more resistance, stainless steel even more.

You can use the ampacity tables in the link below as a guide for how wide/thick the copper bus bar needs to be to satisfy your load. A 1500 watt load will draw 125 amps, not taking into account inverter inefficiency. The fuse will need to be larger to handle surge loads.

 
Thanks for the link.

My neighbor had some 3/8" copper . I made it out of that. problem I had is the 3/8" was so thick the battery post nut would not attach. I had to step it down for that.
How can I keep it from corroding? I know it really should be tinned . I not really set up to do that and it seems like alot for one fitting. is there another way?
 

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You can use heat shrink tubing for the non-fastener part. Around the fastener, use NO-OX-ID or Noalox. Corrosion on the non-fastener area is an aesthetic issue, it won't affect throughput. A thin coat of the anti-corrosion gel will be good enough under the fastener. Be sure to clean the surface first.
 
It seem overkill when comparing to the 3/16" mount on the blue sea fuse witch is rated for 300 amps . maybe because it so short?

 

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Some people bend the busbar 90 degrees so it turns down the side of the battery. Then attach the fuse holder to that.
That way is probably a little easier to change the fuse than yours but yours is easy enough.
I like getting that thing out of the way even if there aren't clearance issues.
 
Some people bend the busbar 90 degrees so it turns down the side of the battery. Then attach the fuse holder to that.
That way is probably a little easier to change the fuse than yours but yours is easy enough.
I like getting that thing out of the way even if there aren't clearance issues.
I like to bend it but being 3/8" copper I was afraid it would break
 
Copper is flexible metal that bends perfectly without visable cracks.
Wiggle it in 180 degrees...
Sure after 5 or 10 times, it snaps.

Aluminium is less forgiving.
One X 90 degrees can go OK, but reverse that bend.... And it's snaps.
 
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