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starchy

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was gonna do a 24v system but turns out the battery manufacturer (bigbattery.com) no longer recommends series connections and it would void my warranty so 12v it is! any glaring issues here before i pull the trigger on some wire and fuse buys? i might run 4/0 wire to the inverter as well per prowse's recommendation (pic from prowse's book).
 

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With a 3000W inverter, the current draw will be significantly higher on 12V than on 24V. The inverter current needs to be re-calculated and fuse size needs to be adjusted accordingly. You can look at all the comments on the other thread for how it was calculated for 24V and adapt that for 12V. The wire gauge may also need to be enlarged.
 
12V is going to cause you pain with high currents and large wire sizes. Go 24v or 48v.
 
i can't do that without voiding the batteries' 10 year warranty.
 
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was gonna do a 24v system but turns out the battery manufacturer (bigbattery.com) no longer recommends series connections and it would void my warranty
That's justification for a full refund of the batteries if they do that to you after you make a purchase.
 
yeah, the thought occurred to me. *sigh* what a headache. i suppose it's worth pursuing though.
 
welp, emailed 'em. we'll see how that goes.
 

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That's justification for a full refund of the batteries if they do that to you after you make a purchase.
I agree. The stated warranty at the time of purchase needs to remain in effect. If they no longer wish to honor that warranty and require you to change the system to maintain the new terms of the warranty they need to return the battery.
 
also, you guys have advise on how to power this smartshunt? (that is, in the event that i don't get a refund) normally you'd just connect it to the positive battery terminal with the included ring terminal but these things have anderson connectors so...
 

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also, you guys have advise on how to power this smartshunt? (that is, in the event that i don't get a refund) normally you'd just connect it to the positive battery terminal with the included ring terminal but these things have anderson connectors so...
Put a 5A fuse in the DC loads box and run the positive to the shunt
 
ok, so, 3000W/.85=3529W. "That means if the batteries are low it will be drawing 2529W/24V=147A" or 2529W/12V in this case = 210A (rounded up to 250A fuse. that plus 4/0 to the inverter ought to do it, eh?
 

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ok, so, 3000W/.85=3529W. "That means if the batteries are low it will be drawing 2529W/24V=147A" or 2529W/12V in this case = 210A (rounded up to 250A fuse. that plus 4/0 to the inverter ought to do it, eh?
I get 2529W/12V=294A

The fuse should not be run at full load so we put 25% headroom. 294 x 1.25 = 367A Round that up to 375A (that is scary high).

Looking this up in an Ampacity Table for MARINE GRAD 105deg rated cable. I get 3/0. the Diagram shows 2/0 to the inverter, it should show 4/0.

Question: What is the max continuous current each battery can support? (It needs to be ~ 100A each).
Question: What is the current rating of the Lynx?
 
ok, changed fuse size and wire size.

the batteries .pdf (attached) lists a "max charge current" of 175a and a "suggested charge current" of 80a

"The Lynx Distributor, Lynx Shunt VE.Can and the Lynx Power In are rated for a nominal current of 1000A, for 12, 24 or 48 System voltages." (p.11)
 

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