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Huge hold on the Xfer switch wiring to isolate the camper converter from being charged by the LP/inverter upgrade. What about all the 12v lighting?

Terrapin

Terrapin

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Jan 4, 2021
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Location
New England, USA
Pumping the brakes HARD....

So I just had a shit show thought. My 12V converter that I want to keep from charging the battery of the inverter loop also runs 100% of the trailer lighting.

Won't taking the converter off line to avoid that loop also cost me 100% capability of the Campers prewired12V converted shore power abilities like the lights, radio, USB/12v outlets/refrigerator fan...freaking everything. No ty video or comments here on how to wire it to do that ever mention that?!?!?!?

I am pretty darn sure this switch is being returned...And I will need to stick with an isolated generator style Shore plug in set up. But I just can't believe I haven't seen this addressed anywhere so I gotta ask if I am missing something huge in my thinking, so just checking in here first.
 
You should only be isolating the charger portion of the converter when on inverter, all the 12v stuff should be supplied by the battery....I can't remember were you using 12v or 24v inverter? What switch did you get?
 
Whinny said:
You should only be isolating the charger portion of the converter when on inverter, all the 12v stuff should be supplied by the battery....I can't remember were you using 12v or 24v inverter? What switch did you get?
Click to expand...
Hey Whinny, Its going to be a 12v 4s2p bank into a Giandel 2200w inverter, the charger is a PD4645 and the transfer switch is the GoPower TS-30. (All the proven tried and true suggestions that have a decent consensus here). I just get these moments where I start not trusting myself. I am pretty sure that the tie in to the the converter that's been suggested is on the power input to it...and that 100% of power to the 12 fuse/distribution is fed off the converter!!! But,. man, I am in way past my paygrade. This is the link for how I was told to use the switch to avoid that loop: https://diysolarforum.com/threads/w...ttery-loop-in-after-market-rv-upgrades.19665/
 
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Try to think of it as 2 different systems, 12v and shore power............
The only difference you want between shore power 110v and inverter 110v is the charging system to the battery. All of the other 110v and 12v stays the same....
(watch the fridge though-if set on "auto" it will default to 110v-set it to manual)
If you take the cover off the converter on the A/C side you will see a row of breakers with Romex (you are USA?) or NMD (Canada) connections. One of those will be a stranded wire coming from the back of the converter or one that is pigtailed with a Marr connector-that will be the charge wire you need to interrupt when running "inverter" mode. If you feed it as shown on the GoPower schematic to only the "shore power" side you are good to go. I wouldn't use a fuse-I would fit a breaker as linked in the other post or possibly a switch/breaker so it can be turned off (I don't know why, but oh well...)
Probably go with 10amp.......
If you find a wire on the 110v side that isn't solid Romex or NMD let me know......other than the charge feed.

I will add that if a fuse blows you should take things apart to find out "why"..they only blow if there is a reason-find the reason before replacing the fuse....
 
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Whinny said:
Try to think of it as 2 different systems, 12v and shore power............
The only difference you want between shore power 110v and inverter 110v is the charging system to the battery. All of the other 110v and 12v stays the same....
(watch the fridge though-if set on "auto" it will default to 110v-set it to manual)
If you take the cover off the converter on the A/C side you will see a row of breakers with Romex (you are USA?) or NMD (Canada) connections. One of those will be a stranded wire coming from the back of the converter or one that is pigtailed with a Marr connector-that will be the charge wire you need to interrupt when running "inverter" mode. If you feed it as shown on the GoPower schematic to only the "shore power" side you are good to go. I wouldn't use a fuse-I would fit a breaker as linked in the other post or possibly a switch/breaker so it can be turned off (I don't know why, but oh well...)
Probably go with 10amp.......
If you find a wire on the 110v side that isn't solid Romex or NMD let me know......other than the charge feed.

I will add that if a fuse blows you should take things apart to find out "why"..they only blow if there is a reason-find the reason before replacing the fuse....
Click to expand...
Thanks a ton Winny! First trailer for me, but I think you get where the confusion is and what you're saying makes sense. I think it will be clearer when I can get the rig uncovered and actually see in there. I've done minor house and car wiring...but never mixed the two. o_O
 
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