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Hybrid installation of Renogy DCDC with Mppt

Saabpilot

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Oct 7, 2020
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33
Location
Sunshine Coast Australia
I have recently purchased a Toyota Hybrid Hylander (Kruger in Australia). THanks to the 2 metric ton towing capacity this is an adequate tow vehicle to small to medium size trainers.
This vehicle has no alternator and chargers the starting battery through a DCDC charger from the main NiMh battery.
I approached this with caution and consulted with an auto-electrician before proceeding.
I have successfully installed a Renogy 30A DCDC charger with Mppt in the vehicle and it is working brilliantly.
I chose the 30A version for the following reason.

1. I am charging a single 100Ah Lithium battery
2. Reduced heat dissipation required due to the under-floor location of the Renogy charger
3. Ability to use 8 AWG cables with no loss of performance (4 AWG was used to the trailer plug connected to a 120A Anderson plug)

The auto-electrian installed electric brakes, so I got him to install a 50A Anderson plug in the trunk area of the vehicle. He isolated this with a Redarc battery isolator that is triggered (OFF) when the starter battery hits a trigger voltage. This is over-kill if you are just connecting a DCDC charger as the isolation function is built into the charger.

I was concerned about the maximum current from the main battery charger, but I am advised that the fuse is something like 160A so plenty of margin.

I connected the DCDC charger to the Redarc isolator (out of an abundance of caution).

What to do with the Alternator sensor? Did it matter? I found that it mattered a lot. I found in testing that connecting it to the input side of the DCDC charger doubled the charging current from 15A to around 28A. This was repeatable.

I installed the charger on the passenger side on the floor behind the third row of seats. It is screwed into the body to help with heat dissipation. Although the space is confined, there is a vent close by and the device does not get very hot thanks to the cooling vanes.

Very happy with the whole installation. Only thing I don’t like about this charger is the low solar input voltage.. 30V can be exceeded with a single panel. For my requirements this is not a problem.

Yet to observe how the system “sees” the solar battery but it seems to behave much like an alternator and drops the voltage from over 14V to around 13V when the starter battery is fully charged. The DCDC charger seems to handle this as expected and continues to provide charge to the solar battery but it drops back to around 15A (This may be partially due to the charging profile of the charger)

I installed the charger on the passenger side on the floor behind the third row of seats. It is screwed into the body to help with heat dissipation.
 
I have recently purchased a Toyota Hybrid Hylander (Kruger in Australia). THanks to the 2 metric ton towing capacity this is an adequate tow vehicle to small to medium size trainers.
This vehicle has no alternator and chargers the starting battery through a DCDC charger from the main NiMh battery.
I approached this with caution and consulted with an auto-electrician before proceeding.
I have successfully installed a Renogy 30A DCDC charger with Mppt in the vehicle and it is working brilliantly.
I chose the 30A version for the following reason.

1. I am charging a single 100Ah Lithium battery
2. Reduced heat dissipation required due to the under-floor location of the Renogy charger
3. Ability to use 8 AWG cables with no loss of performance (4 AWG was used to the trailer plug connected to a 120A Anderson plug)

The auto-electrian installed electric brakes, so I got him to install a 50A Anderson plug in the trunk area of the vehicle. He isolated this with a Redarc battery isolator that is triggered (OFF) when the starter battery hits a trigger voltage. This is over-kill if you are just connecting a DCDC charger as the isolation function is built into the charger.

I was concerned about the maximum current from the main battery charger, but I am advised that the fuse is something like 160A so plenty of margin.

I connected the DCDC charger to the Redarc isolator (out of an abundance of caution).

What to do with the Alternator sensor? Did it matter? I found that it mattered a lot. I found in testing that connecting it to the input side of the DCDC charger doubled the charging current from 15A to around 28A. This was repeatable.

I installed the charger on the passenger side on the floor behind the third row of seats. It is screwed into the body to help with heat dissipation. Although the space is confined, there is a vent close by and the device does not get very hot thanks to the cooling vanes.

Very happy with the whole installation. Only thing I don’t like about this charger is the low solar input voltage.. 30V can be exceeded with a single panel. For my requirements this is not a problem.

Yet to observe how the system “sees” the solar battery but it seems to behave much like an alternator and drops the voltage from over 14V to around 13V when the starter battery is fully charged. The DCDC charger seems to handle this as expected and continues to provide charge to the solar battery but it drops back to around 15A (This may be partially due to the charging profile of the charger)

I installed the charger on the passenger side on the floor behind the third row of seats. It is screwed into the body to help with heat dissipation.
Does the vehicle have a 12v battery (not RV battery, the vehicle battery)?
A Toyota Prius Gen 2 has a 12v battery, and a traction battery.
 
Well in a Hybrid a Vehicle the 12v battery is used to run everything that is 12v in the vehicle. There is no starter motor in a Toyota Hybrid, so its really not a Starter battery, just the vehicle 12v battery.
I imagine the converter that charges the 12v battery from the 200v+- traction battery might be able to provide 30 Amps for the DC-DC battery charger to charge the auxiliary battery you added. Will be interesting to learn about your experience. That DC-DC charger will be looking for 13.2 volts to switch on/off charging to the Auxiliary battery, in most cases. What chemistry is your Aux battery (lead acid, Li, ect) ?
 
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I haven’t confirmed but I believe the fuse to the battery is 160A. There is no alternator but there must be a starter motor otherwise how would you start the gasoline engine that charges the battery?
 
I haven’t confirmed but I believe the fuse to the battery is 160A. There is no alternator but there must be a starter motor otherwise how would you start the gasoline engine that charges the battery?
The electric motors used to propel the vehicle can start the ICE (Internal Combustion Engine) using the traction battery, not the 12v Battery. Here's a link for more info:
This may not be your exact hybrid system, but the starting mode is pretty much universal for Hybrids.

Another video, newer hybrid model:
 
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Saabpilot, What chemistry is your aux battery, lead acid, LiFePO4, ...... ?
 
Thanks for the update on the starting tech.. that makes sense.
The battery is NiMh. I was surprised about this and it nearly put me off the vehicle (not being LiPo). After doing some research I understand the decision. The vehicle is manufactured in the USA and therefore cold weather performance is a critical factor. The battery is warranted for 10 years and about $3000 to replace when it expires. I figure that’s fair enough. They (Toyota) have long experience building hybrids and the BMS is no doubt very mature. In the end the real difference is the weight. The performance of the vehicle is excellent so I’m happy.
 
Thanks Randy for sending those videos. It answered a few questions for me. I have asked the local Toyota agent to confirm the charging capacity of the battery charger but I am pretty sure I have plenty of margin. The test will be when I connect the 50A charger in my camper trailer.
 
Thanks Randy for sending those videos. It answered a few questions for me. I have asked the local Toyota agent to confirm the charging capacity of the battery charger but I am pretty sure I have plenty of margin. The test will be when I connect the 50A charger in my camper trailer.
Just turn the Toyota AC off, that has to free up many amps.
 
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An update to my installation. I could not work out why the charger was working when the vehicle was stationary but stopped within minutes of moving. I later realised that the Redarc isolator was also cutting out at the same time so that explained why the Dcdc charger was not working. I fixed it by reconnecting the DCDC directly to the battery (rather than the output side of the isolator.) clearly the Charger was interfering with the isolator and causing it to drop out at an incorrect voltage. As soon as I changed the connections both devices started working normally. In also disconnected the ignition sensor on the charger the non-smart alternator voltage settings are more appropriate for this setup and the DCDC charger drops out very quickly after turning off the ignition (which is what you want.)
So far the heat sink is working in the underfloor location to keep the temperature at around 45c when fully charging so I am happy with my decision to choose the 30A unit rather than the 50A unit.
All said, this has been a very suitable device for my Hybrid Toyota and working very well.
 
Why do you have both a RedArc isolator and a DC-DC charger.
 
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