Hydrogen sulfide from brand new batteries?

[Tariq0101]

@Honestly, I've never tried myself, so I can't say for sure? But, it just takes a minute to wrench off the bolt, so why not?

BTW, I think Chrissky is correct, it's 10mm2 wire. It might be marginally OK for run of the mill loads, but once you put a serious load on the inverter it is likely to be problematic.

I just hate touching Vaseline, I'd have to reapply it if I wrenched anything. Vaseline is a huge pet peeve to me, that's all lol.

 

[chrisski]

So should I put another 30cm piece alongside it or should I buy a thicker cable for that?
And if there was resistance in the cable, would that cause voltage variation or just heat up the cable?

How thick the wires need to be depends on amps, voltage drop, and wire insulation rating. For the builds I’ve done that’s based off inverter rating.

I use ampacity charts like here to determine if the wire is big enough:

What is wire ampacity and how do you find ampacity rating?

When selecting a cable, one must know its wire ampacity rating. This rating has been determined by the NEC (National Electrical Code)..

www.wireandcabletips.com

Then run this through a voltage calculator like here with length and gauge of wire to make sure voltage loss does nto exceed 3%:

Voltage Drop Calculator

This free voltage drop calculator estimates the voltage drop of an electrical circuit based on the wire size, distance, and anticipated load current.

www.calculator.net

========
For heat, I can’t answer that one for sure. As the ampacity chart shows some wire is rated for 60 C and other 90C. I like to think that running a thinner wire 90 C wire with a given amperage the wire could heat that hot and since its hot enough to burn you, I don’t like that, so I use ampacity off the 60 C wire. So, 8 AWG can handle 40 amps at 60 C insulation, or 55 amps at 90 C insulation. I’d use the 40 amp rating.

The actual wire or spec sheet from teh manufacturer should show the spec. There is wire rated above 90 C. My BMS notion the crate build, but the RV comes with 200 C wire.

I tried googling formulas to see how wires heated up, but I got to many “It depends” without a formula I could use. Some of the “it depends” were, is the wire in open air or a conduit? is the air circulated?

 

[Tariq0101]

So it's not really a problem since

How thick the wires need to be depends on amps, voltage drop, and wire insulation rating. For the builds I’ve done that’s based off inverter rating.

I use ampacity charts like here to determine if the wire is big enough:

What is wire ampacity and how do you find ampacity rating?

When selecting a cable, one must know its wire ampacity rating. This rating has been determined by the NEC (National Electrical Code)..

www.wireandcabletips.com

Then run this through a voltage calculator like here with length and gauge of wire to make sure voltage loss does nto exceed 3%:

Voltage Drop Calculator

This free voltage drop calculator estimates the voltage drop of an electrical circuit based on the wire size, distance, and anticipated load current.

www.calculator.net

========
For heat, I can’t answer that one for sure. As the ampacity chart shows some wire is rated for 60 C and other 90C. I like to think that running a thinner wire 90 C wire with a given amperage the wire could heat that hot and since its hot enough to burn you, I don’t like that, so I use ampacity off the 60 C wire. So, 8 AWG can handle 40 amps at 60 C insulation, or 55 amps at 90 C insulation. I’d use the 40 amp rating.

The actual wire or spec sheet from teh manufacturer should show the spec. There is wire rated above 90 C. My BMS notion the crate build, but the RV comes with 200 C wire.

I tried googling formulas to see how wires heated up, but I got to many “It depends” without a formula I could use. Some of the “it depends” were, is the wire in open air or a conduit? is the air circulated?

so it's not really a problem since I only draw 10 amps on 24v.
I used to encounter warm wires on 12 volts when I drew 20 amps but never hot wires.
So the cause of the batteries imbalance that they weren't balanced in the first place not the wire connecting them, right?
Now I'm not using them at all, I let the 24v inverter charge them till it stopped and I'm now charging the weaker battery with 12 volts charger, is this a good strategy?
I'm not getting any sun lately and most probably all this week because of thick clouds and rain so equalization is out of the question until February