diy solar

diy solar

I am looking for some advice on RV 50 Amp service versus 30 amp.

Again, I don't know all of how the OP has his service setup.
Only:
-30A RV
-50A pedestal provides enough power but not true 50A split phase.
-Asking to increase power when only 30A service is available.

The adapter I suggested has been used by some 5th wheel owners with 50A split phase when they've only had a 30A pedestal available.
I've never used that adapter so can't speak about how well it works.
 
Some panels have busbars that are rated for 50 amps per leg.
If that were the case then the 30 amp master breaker could be swapped for a 50 amp breaker.
That would only make sense if some branch circuits were added.
I would be very surprised if a manufcturer would wire enough loads into the existing panel to pop a 30 amp breaker under normal operation.
As cheaply as RV manufacturers make their RVs, I can't imagine them doing any more than absolutely necessary....ala a 30A panel really being rated at ....30A. And even if that is the case, you would still have to change out the wiring that comes from the Trailer TT-30R (NEMA) plug to the breaker panel. Then, you would also have to look at trying to use the TT-30R, which is rated at 30 amps but you would be trying to make it be able to allow 50A. Why would you be surprised to see a manufacture wire enough loads into an existing panel to pop a 30A breaker? It is done all the time. The difference is that they know that not every circuit is going to be utilized fully at the breaker's rated amperage...all at the same time.

The best and safest solution would be for him to completely get rid of the 30A TT-30R plug at the trailer and replace it with a 50A 14-50P or the more widely used NEMA SS2-50P and then wire it with 6ga/4cond.
 
As cheaply as RV manufacturers make their RVs, I can't imagine them doing any more than absolutely necessary....ala a 30A panel really being rated at ....30A.
This one is dual 30-50.
Agree the wire would need to be bumped up as well.

I re-read the original post and it seems like the OP just wanted to use the L2 to directly power an air conditioner.
He also wanted a switch or relay to power if from L1 in the case that L2 was not available.
 
Because I am going 100% electric appliances, I want to maximize the amps I can pull from shore power.
When you want to install solar and batteries later, you might want to think different and try to minimize your power consumption and amps as a first step.

I got a 30A Service on my Class A and I'm quite happy with it. But I only got one A/C (a good one).
Can run the Microwave, lights, TV, waterpump etc. all while blasting the A/C
 
I have a card on my fridge:
What can I run?
Dehumidifier 3a
Microwave 14a
Toaster 13a
Crocpot 2a
IntantPot 11a
Vitamix 12a
Small Heaters 3a each
Fireplace Heater 12a
Food Processor 6a
Roof A/C 17a
WasherDryer 15a
Waterheater Elec. 15a
Refrigerator 2a

If you are deciding how to split up two legs, put
Leg1:
AirConditioner
Hot Water Heater
Built-in Heater

Leg2:
House Outlet Load for appliances etc
Stove/Microwave dedicated circuits

Or just do the math but keep in mind you won't run the A/C and a Heater at the same time.
 
I'm going to steal that idea :)


your A/C needs a lot - is that a single one? 15k btu?

I got a 13500 BTU which needs about 11-12A running and that one is 20 years old. When mine goes out I'm going to go either DC or get a inverter type A/C which should need less then 10A.
Yeah 2 dometic heat pumps. I have a small window unit for when we are using solar. :cool:
 
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