diy solar

diy solar

I am removing the Li-ion 48V Bigbattery.com pack from my recommendation list

As he has done in the past along with other users here. He needs to just blacklist this vendor.

"There's an old saying in Tennessee — I know it's in Texas, probably in Tennessee — that says, fool me once, shame on — shame on you. Fool me — you can't get fooled again."
George W. Bush
 
The short Anderson jumper is 8awg. All the charts I see rate that less than 50amps. Doesn't that mean that this cable will melt before the 63amp breaker trips?
 
Ampster said:
Yes, but slowly at 63 Amps because it is short. Still not perfect but close.
Click to expand...

The speced capacity is only 79.167Ah so the connector only has to last ~75 minutes.
Still a bit dodgy in my opinion.
 
Last edited:
Will Prowse said:
Eric, the CEO of Bigbattery, told me this afternoon that he found an employee that caused the quality control issues. They are now fired. Shouldn't happen again.
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Well that person or people still work there. I just recieved my shipment last week and the QC is horrendous.
I can add photos once I hear back from BB.
 
In the pictures I note that the battery cables pass through a sheetmetal bulkhead opening with edges protected only by slip-on plastic before reaching the breaker or BMS.
So much for connecting to OCP device first.
 
BigBattery doesn't even respond to email (pre-sales question). I can't imagine post-sales support is any good. Good luck, hope their batteries don't burn your house down.
 
pjones said:
BigBattery doesn't even respond to email (pre-sales question). I can't imagine post-sales support is any good. Good luck, hope their batteries don't burn your house down.
Click to expand...
That was my experience as well .... I would not buy from someone who didn't even answer emails requesting sales information.
 
2500hd said:
Well that person or people still work there. I just received my shipment last week and the QC is horrendous.
I can add photos once I hear back from BB.
Click to expand...
My 48volt packs had terrible QC. The main lug on the breaker was cracked. Most of the screws on the 4 batteries where stripped. Very sloppy and dangerous.
 
This company has a bigger problem than “just one employee“ that they fired. They needed a fall guy. This company seems dirty. That’s just what observation is inclined to make me think, at this point.
 
This is sad, I guess I join with others who have had bad work from BigBattery. I jumped the gun on the NMC and didn't want to return the BigBattery batteries I bought and based on what I was reading and Will's video on the dangers of NMC chemistry, I decided I didn't want the NMC in my house so I've been slowly building a solar shed. I finally got that all finished, hooked everything up and only one of the BigBattery 48V powerwall's actually charged, though the other one would turn on, but it wasn't charging. When I examined the SB50 connector, I noticed the negative prong was not even there. Opened up the case and the wire they put in wasn't in the connector and it was too short for me to push it in.

I'm a beginner when it comes to electronics so I'm not quite sure what's the best way to fix this. It sounds like shipping back to BigBattery will cost >$200 and I bought these in the summer which was before they offered their '10 year manufacturer warranty' so I'm not sure if they would even honor this defect. Any recommendations on the best way I can fix this?

1614028241317.png1614028387659.png

I saw what they did on one of @joshgubler's battery with an sb50 connector between the wires, so maybe I can do that to extend the wire. Oddly my wire is #7, where I see others have #8 wire. I'm not sure where to buy 200C wire as everything I'm seeing for #7 comes to 105C. Anyone have any recommendations?

I'm worried that there's more defective pieces in the equipment and whether I can even trust running the stuff now. Super sad as I was about ready to spend $3K-$5K on more batteries from BigBattery if this had worked out right.
 
adunsulag said:
When I examined the SB50 connector, I noticed the negative prong was not even there. Opened up the case and the wire they put in wasn't in the connector and it was too short for me to push it in.

I'm a beginner when it comes to electronics so I'm not quite sure what's the best way to fix this. It sounds like shipping back to BigBattery will cost >$200 and I bought these in the summer which was before they offered their '10 year manufacturer warranty' so I'm not sure if they would even honor this defect. Any recommendations on the best way I can fix this?
Click to expand...

Contact vendor first and they may fix it despite any change in warranty period.

Possibly if connector was flipped over, that would provide just enough length.

Looks to me like if other end was resoldered with wire oriented differently, that would provide length. Maybe adjust slope off surface of PCB and slip a sleeve over it to avoid abrasion on metal edge.

You might also be able to adjust mounting location of BMS.

Just don't short anything while messing with it.
 
Thank you @Hedges. I reached out to the vendor (BigBattery) and they will send me a longer wire with a new anderson connector. I guess the warranty period last summer was only 30 days but at least I'll get a longer cable. I've never resoldered a wire before, but I guess its just one more new thing to learn. There's a lot of stuff I've been doing that I've never done before since joining this forum, haha.
 
That fat a wire will really soak up heat. Rather than a small iron typical for electronics you need a large high wattage one. It will not have good temperature control and could overheat the PCB if used too long. Wear goggles, dab on some additional solder to make good thermal contact, heat with iron while lifting gently on cable until it just melts and comes loose.

To solder on the new one, non-corrosive rosin core 60/40 lead/tin solder is good.
 
Hedges said:
That fat a wire will really soak up heat. Rather than a small iron typical for electronics you need a large high wattage one. It will not have good temperature control and could overheat the PCB if used too long. Wear goggles, dab on some additional solder to make good thermal contact, heat with iron while lifting gently on cable until it just melts and comes loose.

To solder on the new one, non-corrosive rosin core 60/40 lead/tin solder is good.
Click to expand...
Thank you, thank you. You've saved me a lot of research!
 
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