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I got shocked twice today! Possible root cause found.

WorldwideDave

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Hello everyone thank you for reading. I have a half horsepower water pump on my roof. I have two water tanks up there and this provides pressure to ensure that my washing machine fills and showers are comfortable in the one story house.

I replaced it yesterday, and re-did all the PVC plumbing. I let the plumbing glue dry for 18 hours.

This morning I plugged in the pump and it would not start up. There is a sensor that floats in the water tank and it shuts off the pump if the water tank gets empty. It’s a simple on/off.

Suspecting that device might be a problem, I bypassed it and hooked up the water pump directly. The pump ran. I was bleeding off the air pressure in the system using a brass valve, which is screwed into the PVC. I was wearing sandals, but my feet and hands were wet at the time. I got shocked from touching the handle.

I waited for the pump to stop pumping. I touched the brass valve once again, and did not get shocked.

I thought that was strange.

Next, I installed a new switch inside of the tank. I wired it in line according to the directions. I tested the switch by opening the valve, which did not shock me, and as the water was flowing out of the valve, I pulled up on the safety switch in the tank and the pump shut off as designed.

Next, I ran a hose from a hose bib into my water tank. I then opened the brass valve and simply drop the hose into the tank. The pump kicked on. The hose shot out of the water tank faster than I could grab it. I then went to turn off the hose bib and once again I had water on my arm and water on my hands and when I went to shut off the hose bib I was shocked again.

I went to a hardware store and picked up a Klein meter. I walked around the house, checking outlets to ensure that there was not anything wrong. But almost every outlet I tested either displayed that the hot and neutral or reversed or neutral and ground were reversed.

I have not been to my house in two years, and since I’ve been gone, there has been a hurricane.

Next, I plugged the tester into the circuit that my water pump plugs into. I was having trouble reading the display, so I unplugged the other cord that plugs into the same outlet. When I tested, it said the wiring in the outlet was correct. I then went around to the other outlets and they all said they were correct. I rebooted the tester just to make sure and all the outlets were reading fine.

What is plugged into the water pump outlet? A Trip Lite UPS battery backup device.

To make absolutely sure what I was seeing is accurate, and then plugged the battery back up into the outlet and watched my test meter indicate that the hot and neutral were reversed again. I then plugged the tester into multiple outlets in the house and verified that anytime the trip light device is plugged in. I get the error on the meter.

Needless to say, I am leaving the UPS unplugged . I also will not shower or run a load of laundry until I figure this out.

I was able to wash my hands in the sink and didn’t get electrocuted. I was also working in the tank on the back of the toilets and wasn’t getting electrocuted.

So what do we think? Before I go back on the roof and try touching metal things to see if I get shocked, is there anything I should do with my test meter? It has two leads, but they’re not super long.

The pump does have a ground wire and it is connected.

The pump may be bad, although it is working great.

Would reversing line voltage and neutral and an electric water pump cause electrocution?

The circuit is 120 V 60 Hz just like USA but I am in Mexico at one of our homes down here.
 
Good find. Always a good idea to plug any water using equipment or appliances into a GFCI outlet or breaker.

Also, might want to look up the definition of electrocute as you seem very much alive
Ok so I got shocked? Zapped? I see that it means severe damage or death.

Over at my other house I have the same trip light battery back up and I just tested the circuits in that house and they are all working great.

I read online somewhere that the automatic transfer switches within the Tripp Light can go bad.
 
SInce third time might be the charm, perhaps hire a sparky? Secondly, closed-toed shoes when doing work outside... lol!
 
SInce third time might be the charm, perhaps hire a sparky? Secondly, closed-toed shoes when doing work outside... lol!
It is 85°. Everyone wears flip-flops lol.

Also, this is Mexico… Everyone here claims to be an expert at air conditioning, plumbing, electrical, and concrete, rebar, and cement. Everybody.
 
But almost every outlet I tested either displayed that the hot and neutral or reversed or neutral and ground were reversed.
Is that first "or" a "were"? My brain fell down reading that sentence, maybe it's just too late in the day.
 
This makes me glad to live in the UK where every modern circuit is RCD protected. As has been suggested it's worth looking at protecting atleast the outlet with a GFCI socket. I don't know why RCD protection for circuits isn't standard globally.
 
To get shocked by a brass valve connected to PVC pipe would indicate that the water inside the pipe is becoming energized (fresh water is not a great conductor but can depending on the level of contaminates in it). The only place for that is the pump or your level switch. If pump.. it likely is mis-wired. I have difficulty thinking that a plug in UPS can reverse the systems hot and neutral unless you are talking about taking power from it.

This level switch is it a enclosed float switch or an open electrode style? Open electrode style can energize water since it use water as the means of indicating water level is reaching it.
 
I'm trying to figure out how any tester can tell if the neutral and ground are reversed. (Hint: they can't)
If (and only if) the outlet you were testing was chained AND something downstream fairly significant was using power then you could tell them apart because the neutral should have a slight voltage on it. 50ft of 12ga with a total resistance of .08 ohms with a 10A is .75v, so 5A would still be .38v and should be detectable and if that voltage falls between the hot and the ground (and is almost ground) then it would have to be the neutral. It would not be easy and I would not bet on all of the checkers being able to detect it.
 
If (and only if) the outlet you were testing was chained AND something downstream fairly significant was using power then you could tell them apart because the neutral should have a slight voltage on it. 50ft of 12ga with a total resistance of .08 ohms with a 10A is .75v, so 5A would still be .38v and should be detectable and if that voltage falls between the hot and the ground (and is almost ground) then it would have to be the neutral. It would not be easy and I would not bet on all of the checkers being able to detect it.
You could get the same reading from an open and floating neutral.
 
You could get the same reading from an open and floating neutral.
If the neutral is open and floating and anything is attempting to use any power then the neutral will be a near full voltage sine wave. If the neutral is open and floating and nothing is plugged in then the neutral will be a constant voltage.
 
If the neutral is open and floating and anything is attempting to use any power then the neutral will be a near full voltage sine wave. If the neutral is open and floating and nothing is plugged in then the neutral will be a constant voltage.
if the neutral is open (a wire going nowhere), you will only read potential.
Which could be anything between half the nominal voltage and zero.
 
if the neutral is open (a wire going nowhere), you will only read potential.
Which could be anything between half the nominal voltage and zero.
Potential for an unconnected neutral if you say have a old style light bulb connected and/or a transformer (with no current flow except the tiny amount to change the wires voltage because neutral is unconnected) will be a sine wave matching the hots voltage for the most part. if there are no loads connected downstream of the neutral disconnect then the potentials would not be usable to tell anything except that it was not connected to ground. With no loads connected downstream, I will agree there is no way to tell if it is a neutral or ground that is disconnected.
 
Potential for an unconnected neutral if you say have a old style light bulb connected and/or a transformer (with no current flow except the tiny amount to change the wires voltage because neutral is unconnected) will be a sine wave matching the hots voltage for the most part. if there are no loads connected downstream of the neutral disconnect then the potentials would not be usable to tell anything except that it was not connected to ground. With no loads connected downstream, I will agree there is no way to tell if it is a neutral or ground that is disconnected.
In normal conditions, the neutral and ground will have continuity and read nominal voltage from a line conductor.
If they were connected in reverse, the readings would be the same.
I would like to see what tester can tell if they are reversed.
 
In normal conditions, the neutral and ground will have continuity and read nominal voltage from a line conductor.
If they were connected in reverse, the readings would be the same.
I would like to see what tester can tell if they are reversed.
If there is a load attached on that downstream circuit that is running a decent amount of current (a couple of amps) then there is current flow down the neutral and that will cause the voltage to be different than ground because of the resistance of the neutral wire.

I just tested with a multimeter. With no load I got 0.02v (AC) N to G (first outlet). With a standard resistance heater on low (next outlet down the wall) then I get .44v, and on high .92V, and this circuit (from the test point to the panel) has maybe 45ft of 12ga. When I had just the fan on I got 0.02v(so the fan is too low to tell) and with the fan off 0.02v still. So it probably requires a 1a or more load downstream to be able to tell if they are reversed.

If you had a tester that could run a load all by itself then 100% of the time you could tell they are reversed and connected. You might be able to make a wall wart type tested that could for a cycle or 2 draw a couple of amps and detect it--not sure if such a device exists or if this is exactly what is in all of those checkers.

Reversed in the middle of a string of oulets, if the whole string is reversed there is zero way to tell...
 
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