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I need help on a basic fact of inverters in the 2000w to 3000w range

Inspector22

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Castle Rock, Colorado
My question is how much power do you get out of each plug receptacle on an inverter? I am on a very limited budget and looking at inverters in the $300.00 range, not $500 and up. I may have total bogus information and that is why I am posting on this forum.

I have read that on a typical 2000w inverter you only get a maximum of 1000w from each plug-in. Hence on the 3000w inverter you have three plug-ins for 1000w each. This cancels the idea of running an air-conditioner even if it fits in the 2000w range.

Hypothetical scenario: Let's say you needed 1500 continuous watts. Each plug can only put out a max of 1000w continuous power with a surge up to 2000w to start something. You cannot get 1500w continuous power out of the inverter. Does this issue apply to all inverters or just a few? Does anyone have information on this issue?
 
I believe that all three plugs together will be lucky to put out the inverter rated claims in total!
 
Most plugs are wired in parallel so they aren’t really separated.

Usually they are NEMA 15 amp plugs.

15 amps at 120v is 1800w so one plug should be good for that at a maximum.

Hope that helps.
 
When you get around to picking the inverter put a link here and see if anybody has real world experience with it, good or bad.
 
Have come across a few stories of the power split between the outlets. At the low end you will need to verify with the manufacturer if it is not stated in the manual. However many 2000+ watt inverters also have a hardwire connection and this would supply full rated power as far as I know. Honestly 2000 is a practical limit for 12v battery as far as I am concerned. Better to go 24+ volts for 3000 watts.

I have had poor luck with Xantrex, although the newer stuff might be improved. Much better with Go Power but probably out of your $$ range.
 
Thanks Time2roll. I backed off on wattage.

Thanks JoeHam - Below is what I had saved as favorites. I am trying to get manuals for each of them if I can. As you know, it is very hard to compare them without some corresponding specifications. I am trying to stay around $200 if I can.

Currently looking at the Giandel 1200w ($200) at

Another one, I sort of prefer, with a bit more power to give me a bit more headroom is the GoWISE Power 1500w unit ($200) at https://smile.amazon.com/Power-Tech...sine+wave+inverter+12v,automotive,192&sr=1-30

Good ratings(?) come with the Ampeak 2000w model ($165) as they have 1000w and jump to 2000w and the :) POOXTRA 1500w model ($216) No load <0.6A. Peak efficiency 86%, just in case anyone had experience with those two brands.

I appreciate any help I can get. This setup is on my RV trailer.
 
The point about regular wall plugs being limited to 15 Amps is a good one.

On my 3000 W Victron Multiplus, there's only one set of terminals for power out - said terminals which can presumably handle 50 A (6000 W) for a short time. (Hmm ...)

I have my terminals wired to a power strip. Which means that I could plug in a few loads to the strip that, in total, would eat more than 15 Amps. But the power cord to my power strip can only handle 15 Amps.

(The reality in my case is that Victron intended users to wire heavy gauge wire (say 10 gauge?) from the terminals to a distribution box, and break out the current from the box. Kinda like house mains are wired.)
 
Giandel amazon questions:

Question:
Can I pull the full 1200w from one outlet?
Answer:
Yes
By Giandel SELLER on September 26, 2020

GoWise questions seem to indicate all power is available to any single outlet.

Are you going to wire this to your trailer electric system at all or plugging the main cord into the inverter? Many of these do not like the neutral ground bond to the 12v battery negative and the chassis ground all connected. May need to keep the systems isolated and plug components in direct to the inverter. Installation manual should explain this. Also the supplied cables very likely are undersize 'test' cables.
 
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Victron points out that their 3000 W inverter derates to 2400 W at Phoenix summer temperatures.

80%.

I presume that the Giandel does too, although I've not been able to find any documentation about it.

Point being, if you plan to be using your RV trailer in the desert, make sure you have something that can take the heat and has good ventilation.
 
The terms 1000-2000-3000 watt inverter are just consumer labels for comparison. The devil is in the details.
Not knowing for sure about a specific inverter, but 15 amp outlets are rated for 1800 watts.
All the outlets are wired in parallel with the inverter output just protected from overload differently.
A 1000-2000 watt inverter with multiple outlets can be covered by one 15A fuse or circuit breaker inside the inverter.
So, the full output is available to any/all outlets, but the total can't be over 1800 watts.
On 3000 watt and over inverters with multiple outlets usually there is a 15A fuse or circuit breaker for each one.
It allows 1800 watts per outlet along with a larger fuse/circuit breaker covering the total output of all outlets not to exceed the inverter rating. So, the most you will get out of any inverter outlet is 2400 watts.
This is only if the inverter is rated over 2400 watts, and it has a rated 20A outlet.
 
Giandel amazon questions:

Question:
Can I pull the full 1200w from one outlet?
Answer:
Yes
By Giandel SELLER on September 26, 2020

GoWise questions seem to indicate all power is available to any single outlet.

Are you going to wire this to your trailer electric system at all or plugging the main cord into the inverter? Many of these do not like the neutral ground bond to the 12v battery negative and the chassis ground all connected. May need to keep the systems isolated and plug components in direct to the inverter. Installation manual should explain this. Also the supplied cables very likely are undersize 'test' cables.
Thanks for the information. I will only run a power line/extension cord from the inverter to power certain 110 items when needed. Yes, I chuckled when I saw the size. I run about 5 or 6 feet from the batteries to the inverter and will check the charts to ensure sufficient sizing for the amperage.
Victron points out that their 3000 W inverter derates to 2400 W at Phoenix summer temperatures.

80%.

I presume that the Giandel does too, although I've not been able to find any documentation about it.

Point being, if you plan to be using your RV trailer in the desert, make sure you have something that can take the heat and has good ventilation.
Thank you for the information. I will ensure adequate ventilation. That type of power loss is why I was looking at 2000w models so with efficiency, heat, and other losses, I would still have sufficient power at the 110v device. I don't really want a 1200w model and due to system and conditions I only get 800w or 900w at the device.
The terms 1000-2000-3000 watt inverter are just consumer labels for comparison. The devil is in the details.
Not knowing for sure about a specific inverter, but 15 amp outlets are rated for 1800 watts.
All the outlets are wired in parallel with the inverter output just protected from overload differently.
A 1000-2000 watt inverter with multiple outlets can be covered by one 15A fuse or circuit breaker inside the inverter.
So, the full output is available to any/all outlets, but the total can't be over 1800 watts.
On 3000 watt and over inverters with multiple outlets usually there is a 15A fuse or circuit breaker for each one.
It allows 1800 watts per outlet along with a larger fuse/circuit breaker covering the total output of all outlets not to exceed the inverter rating. So, the most you will get out of any inverter outlet is 2400 watts.
This is only if the inverter is rated over 2400 watts, and it has a rated 20A outlet.
Thanks. Good summary and easy to understand. 1800w is more than enough out of one outlet. I will probably only run one extension cord (15A) from the inverter and that again is why I was looking at 2000w models as stated above. I should not need 1800w but 1000w to 1500w is readily available without shutting down the inverter if I am thinking correctly. I will only run the inverter when I need the 110v.
 
Just as a side note:
If you're using an extension cord, make sure it's 12 gauge wire. The less voltage drop the better.
 
I have the GoWise 2000 Watt pure sine inverter and it can run my AC. I even ran my AC and microwave at the same time once to see if it could handle it and it did, though I wouldn't normally do that.


My application is a truck camper and we don't use the AC much at all. If it's hot enough for AC, it's time to go somewhere cooler.
 
I wonder why the Giandel 24 V version of the same inverter (2000 W) costs $100+ more? Did I pay for the name?
 
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I have the GoWise 2000 Watt pure sine inverter and it can run my AC. I even ran my AC and microwave at the same time once to see if it could handle it and it did, though I wouldn't normally do that.


My application is a truck camper and we don't use the AC much at all. If it's hot enough for AC, it's time to go somewhere cooler.
Thanks so much for the report on the GoWISE 2000w. That is about what I have in mind at this time. What type, size, etc. battery setup do you use with it? I use four - 6v deep cycle flooded lead acid batteries configured as 12v with 450Ahr capacity total and 225A usable or 2700w usable to 50%.
 
Thanks so much for the report on the GoWISE 2000w. That is about what I have in mind at this time. What type, size, etc. battery setup do you use with it? I use four - 6v deep cycle flooded lead acid batteries configured as 12v with 450Ahr capacity total and 225A usable or 2700w usable to 50%.
I've got a 4s 272 Lishen LFP pack connected to it with 2/0 welding cable. I also use an overkill solar BMS. For the BMS, I did adjust the max surge current so I could run the microwave. I don't remember what it was or what I changed it to. Like I said, we use it mainly for the microwave but I have tested it with the AC.
 
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