• Have you tried out dark mode?! Scroll to the bottom of any page to find a sun or moon icon to turn dark mode on or off!

diy solar

diy solar

I'm just a little PO'ed. Return of The Magic Smoke

The wires coming out the "top" (not your 4-AWG) that burnt and it's neighbour are seriously cooked, I'd say you got lucky !
I'm assuming those two go up to the SCC Electronics ? What freakin gauge is that ? Looks like 10, maybe 8 ? me, shakes head in wonder, wth.
 
I can't remember after the last one did you check how tight the connector was when first installed? Is the one next to it still tight?
 
How much current is through that? Seems like they underengineered something there.
 
The wires coming out the "top" (not your 4-AWG) that burnt and it's neighbour are seriously cooked, I'd say you got lucky !

Just the negative is cooked. In the original failure video I showed the internal wire gauge, it is 14AWG with 105C insulation.


I'm assuming those two go up to the SCC Electronics ? What freakin gauge is that ? Looks like 10, maybe 8 ? me, shakes head in wonder, wth.
I believe the failure is correctly identified in this post from the original thread. The termination is the fault.

I'm running JA Solar mono 530W panels, here are the specs:

  • Rated Maximum Power (Pmax): 530W
  • Open Circuit Voltage (Voc): 49.65 V
  • Maximum Power Voltage (Vmp): 41.84 V
  • Short Circuit Current (Isc): 13.43 A
  • Maximum Power Current (Imp): 12.67 A
I have 8S in a string, just one string on each MPPT. The EG4 MPPT is rated for 5500W and I'm only pushing 4240W into the MPPT. I have 10AWG THWN with 105C insulation on my side.
 
Just the negative is cooked. In the original failure video I showed the internal wire gauge, it is 14AWG with 105C insulation.



I believe the failure is correctly identified in this post from the original thread. The termination is the fault.

I'm running JA Solar mono 530W panels, here are the specs:

  • Rated Maximum Power (Pmax): 530W
  • Open Circuit Voltage (Voc): 49.65 V
  • Maximum Power Voltage (Vmp): 41.84 V
  • Short Circuit Current (Isc): 13.43 A
  • Maximum Power Current (Imp): 12.67 A
I have 8S in a string, just one string on each MPPT. The EG4 MPPT is rated for 5500W and I'm only pushing 4240W into the MPPT. I have 10AWG THWN with 105C insulation on my side.


Just curious if you have put a clamp meter on it when it was operating to verify the current is what you expect? 14awg should be mor than enough, which would leave that connector they have as the real issue.
 
I can't remember after the last one did you check how tight the connector was when first installed? Is the one next to it still tight?
Yes, checked every terminal including pulling the breaker and checking those on the other charge controller and this replacement at install.

 
Just curious if you have put a clamp meter on it when it was operating to verify the current is what you expect? 14awg should be mor than enough, which would leave that connector they have as the real issue.
Really? The panels are somehow magically putting out more amps than rated? I have 8S and max ISC is 13.43A

The connector is faulty, if someone's house burns down they have a huge liability on their hands due to the connector. I don't know what EG4 will do about this problem but it will need to be addressed.
 
Yes, checked every terminal including pulling the breaker and checking those on the other charge controller and this replacement at install.

That's what I thought.

An easy "fix" is to bypass like you said before to direct wire things, or install a different connector type, but you shouldn't have to do that. I wonder why they're loosening up, they aren't running loose and hot at first but something is clearly going on.
 
That's what I thought.

An easy "fix" is to bypass like you said before to direct wire things, or install a different connector type, but you shouldn't have to do that. I wonder why they're loosening up, they aren't running loose and hot at first but something is clearly going on.
I'm wondering if the connector is aluminum.
 
Oh I agree with you, don't get me wrong.
But you have the equipment to just check it so I would. And I also agree with you and I would run the wire direct with 10awg now.

Maybe they are having this sort of failure a lot and just not saying anything. Or maybe you have just been unlucky. Just a bit odd it is exactly the same connector and wire as before.

And I assume by now you have already checked the other unit and found no issue? Wires not even warm.

I'm wondering if the connector is aluminum.

Great point - did you put any no-ox or similar on the wires? shouldn't need to.
 
Oh I agree with you, don't get me wrong.
But you have the equipment to just check it so I would. And I also agree with you and I would run the wire direct with 10awg now.

I'll grab it off that SCC when I run the wire to bypass. I must have cut the wire off as I couldn't find the complete bypass wire I used before.
Maybe they are having this sort of failure a lot and just not saying anything. Or maybe you have just been unlucky. Just a bit odd it is exactly the same connector and wire as before.

And I assume by now you have already checked the other unit and found no issue? Wires not even warm.

I checked all connections on the other unit plus took the cover off the replacement at installation and checked all connections. Some did tighten up slightly, maybe 1/8 turn.

Great point - did you put any no-ox or similar on the wires? shouldn't need to.
Didn't no-ox or similar.

When I run the bypass wire, I'll do a little investigating on whether copper or aluminum.
 
Really? The panels are somehow magically putting out more amps than rated? I have 8S and max ISC is 13.43A

The connector is faulty, if someone's house burns down they have a huge liability on their hands due to the connector. I don't know what EG4 will do about this problem but it will need to be addressed.
Do not take this wrong but although you checked the terminal for being tight did you also pull on the wire to ensure it would not easily pull out? Some of these darn blocks can allow you to insert a wire under the rising block and while it looks connected, and the screw is as tight as it can be, the wire sits without any hold on it.
 
Hi @Zwy - If you'd like to send me your ticket number and email address, I can request an escalation!


Thank you guys for the tag!
 

diy solar

diy solar
Back
Top