Installing The MPP Solar HV2-5048 and LFP cells

[Bob Steel]

Installing MPP Hybrid Inverter 5KW
HV2-5048



Australia is 240 volt 50 hertz and my place is single phase. This model also suits India ,Germany and South America it says.
Cost $1156 AUD all up .(72c US conversion rate). Took 2 weeks to get to me.

I received this unit today with a little bit of knock around damage on the outside of the box but no damage to the Inverter as it is pretty well cushioned in dense foam. Handbook gives install details so into the install.
Comes with a CD that has Linux Inverter and battery monitoring program in Mac and Windows also. Installed the Linux 64 bit version . There is a 32 bit version too.



That installed and started fine so now to the inverter wall fitting . I already have my battery set up as 2 strings of 24 volts with appropriate BMS’s and active balancers on each so the first job is to get my solar panels on the roof and connect them to the inverter .

This unit will take up to 24 normal 250 watt panels in 2 strings for a total of 6000 watts PV input , 6KW. Well I think I have about 18 spare so that will have to do.

It will operate without a battery if needed and will feed into and take from the grid if needed. So while the sun is shining I can draw up to 27 amps of 240v and run my stuff without battery attached. I can feed the grid if I want also during the day. So logic says buy whatever solar panels you can first ,install them , buy this inverter and you are producing your own power daytime . Add batteries and the grid if you want them later. A small cheap battery bank will do to run light and TV at night. Anything you can cobble together to get to around 54 volts.

It has an inbuilt charger so if a battery is attached it will feed solar charge or utility charge into it at a rate you can set in 10 amp increments up to 80 amps. Handy if you have a small battery attached that can only take say 20 amps . You can limit the charge to 20 amps.

The software and manuals are all available on the web at

MPP Solar Inc » Download Center

www.mppsolar.com

Put up on the wall and ran cables to the battery . Heavy guage AWG2 wires specified but I had some old insulated heavy copper about 5 mm diameter copper cross section and that will have to do for now. Crimped on some lugs with about a 7mm hole and they worked well. I have a small insulated shifter but you may as well buy yourself a screwdriver handle type driver to suit a 10mm socket too as everything I meet seems to have 10mm nuts . With a screwdriver hand tool you won’t over-tighten and strip them. Insulate it with Heat shrink to avoid shorting terminals . I have a boat swage tool for crimping but have just ordered the hydraulic crimper type for $25 AUD on ebay.

I wanted to check the inverter was working properly so I connected up the 240 volt grid input to the A/C input point . With nothing else connected ,no battery , no solar PVs, no A/C output and inverter switched off, I turned on my other 24v inverter supplied a/c at the plug. It fired into life and gave me a flashing warning that said “6P”. That worried me a bit but I had a look through the menu and saw that it showed A/C coming in in standby mode so I switched the inverter on. That showed that the unit was ready to supply A/C out and I heard the relays click on. Showed 230 volts in and out because my present 24v inverter was putting that out.

Turned out on reading the manual “6P” was “bP” which was simply telling me the battery was not connected ,so all was well.
On to getting the solar panels up and then connected.

I have a couple of panels on the roof and I’ll put 4 more up so 6 in one string should give me a start at least 30v each approx by 6 of = 180v. The MPPT voltage starts at 120 volts input so that will do for now .Better fix the roof before I put the rest of the panels up. This at least will allow me to change over from 24v to 48v and continue to have solar power available in the house. In Battery I’ll only have 100Ah at 48v so I’ll have to secure another string of 16 100Ah cells and BMS etc in the near future before China stops all trade with excessive tariffs.
Also I have a 16s BMS but Ill leave the two 8s BMS’s attached to each half for now and see if that causes any unforeseen problems. In operation the second in line BMS does not like that arrangement. I don’t know why but I bypassed that BMS for now.

When thats all done the system should supply about 27 amps of 240 volts as advertised but in the meantime I will gradually work up.

Settings time .
The settings I will change for my use in Australia are:-
01 sbu Solar/Battery/Utility
03 240 My voltage out needed
05 lbu Load/Battery/Utility
09 g|-d Grid disabled..default
10 oso Solar to battery only
11 20 Max charge amps atm
14 use User set battery
17 54v c/v voltage
18 53v float
19 48v low dc battery cut off (this is as high as it goes)
20 48v cut battery disharge
21 53v battery stop charging when grid available(?)


All the rest are left at default.
I’ll see what needs adjusting in operation . I took the float up to 54v temporarily to top up my batteries which were down a bit .

Well, put up 6 panels first as its full summer here and hot on the roof. Input is about 200 v so its fine to test . Current coming into battery was about 10 amps with a clamp meter so I’ll need to look at this as the amps out of the panels all in series should be 8 amps and if MPPT is actually happening then you would expect to get 16 amps or so charging but battery was filling up so maybe not.

Connected PV and also battery in 48v configuration . All running fine

It does not seem to have a wi-fi connection just USB and RS-232. Ill have a look at the supplied program when I get a longer usb lead.
Anything else related to the install I’ll tag on here.

It is very bright at night (I found you can turn off the backlight in the software ) and there does not seem to be any adjustment ,also the fans run all the time so its noisy at night . There is no adjustment on that either so this is best placed away from your sleeping areas.

The password to get into the software is “administrator”.

For more on LFP,LiFePo4 see here
On your battery, have a look at the discharge curves below to help understand at what voltage your cell is full and what voltage is empty.

 

[snoobler]

Strong first post.

 

[jasonhc73]

Well done!

I've been using the US LV5048 for a year now, two in parallel. I use them on and off-grid all the time. During the off-grid times, I send power to my house while the house is disconnected from the grid.

Charge at 58.4V (LiFePO4)
Float at 53.1V, I have never been able to charge my used packs above 54.0, as soon as I stop the bulk charge, they self discharge to 52.9~53.1V rapidly.
Back to Grid 48V
Max AC charging 10 (only happens when grid-connected when the A/C in is used), the setting is 10, but since in parallel, it is really 20 amp.
Back to discharge is 53.0V (only when A/C is available)
Battery cut-off, 46V

Disable equalization.

I use a giant knife switch to change the input and output connection to my house and the inverters. I also have access to the output all the time.

 

[Bob Steel]

Gotta say all went excitingly well until I emailed the supplier to find out about turning off the backlight and noisy fans . He/she said those features not supported on any of their models then when I found the backlight off bit and told them they got very stroppy and sent me an email suggesting I was ,well lets say incompetent. Gave them a blast back so they blacklisted me on ebay . They are bloody nasty little zealots I can attest. I'll be looking out for other manufacturers and suppliers in future.

 

[Aaron_85]

Was the ebay seller Maximum Solar? A few users in oz have had after sales problems with them.
Purchasing directly from MPP Solar Australia for a little bit more is probably a safer bet, and domestic if there is a warranty issue.

https://mppsolar.com.au/ although i see they don't sell the model you have, and all the hybrids have the warning "Not Suitable for Grid Feedback in Australia – Offgrid use only".

Probably because its not CEC approved, so most likely would not get approval to "legally" grid feed, if that is your plan.

 

[Bob Steel]

Yes on Maximum Solar .
Nah on the grid feed , but thanks for the info . Good to know.
Last thing I want to do is give them my power for free!

 

[Skysthelimit]

View attachment 29307



Installing MPP Hybrid Inverter 5KW
HV2-5048



Australia is 240 volt 50 hertz and my place is single phase. This model also suits India ,Germany and South America it says.
Cost $1156 AUD all up .(72c US conversion rate). Took 2 weeks to get to me.

I received this unit today with a little bit of knock around damage on the outside of the box but no damage to the Inverter as it is pretty well cushioned in dense foam. Handbook gives install details so into the install.
Comes with a CD that has Linux Inverter and battery monitoring program in Mac and Windows also. Installed the Linux 64 bit version . There is a 32 bit version too.



That installed and started fine so now to the inverter wall fitting . I already have my battery set up as 2 strings of 24 volts with appropriate BMS’s and active balancers on each so the first job is to get my solar panels on the roof and connect them to the inverter .

This unit will take up to 24 normal 250 watt panels in 2 strings for a total of 6000 watts PV input , 6KW. Well I think I have about 18 spare so that will have to do.

It will operate without a battery if needed and will feed into and take from the grid if needed. So while the sun is shining I can draw up to 27 amps of 240v and run my stuff without battery attached. I can feed the grid if I want also during the day. So logic says buy whatever solar panels you can first ,install them , buy this inverter and you are producing your own power daytime . Add batteries and the grid if you want them later. A small cheap battery bank will do to run light and TV at night. Anything you can cobble together to get to around 54 volts.

It has an inbuilt charger so if a battery is attached it will feed solar charge or utility charge into it at a rate you can set in 10 amp increments up to 80 amps. Handy if you have a small battery attached that can only take say 20 amps . You can limit the charge to 20 amps.

The software and manuals are all available on the web at

MPP Solar Inc » Download Center

www.mppsolar.com

Put up on the wall and ran cables to the battery . Heavy guage AWG2 wires specified but I had some old insulated heavy copper about 5 mm diameter copper cross section and that will have to do for now. Crimped on some lugs with about a 7mm hole and they worked well. I have a small insulated shifter but you may as well buy yourself a screwdriver handle type driver to suit a 10mm socket too as everything I meet seems to have 10mm nuts . With a screwdriver hand tool you won’t over-tighten and strip them. Insulate it with Heat shrink to avoid shorting terminals . I have a boat swage tool for crimping but have just ordered the hydraulic crimper type for $25 AUD on ebay.

I wanted to check the inverter was working properly so I connected up the 240 volt grid input to the A/C input point . With nothing else connected ,no battery , no solar PVs, no A/C output and inverter switched off, I turned on my other 24v inverter supplied a/c at the plug. It fired into life and gave me a flashing warning that said “6P”. That worried me a bit but I had a look through the menu and saw that it showed A/C coming in in standby mode so I switched the inverter on. That showed that the unit was ready to supply A/C out and I heard the relays click on. Showed 230 volts in and out because my present 24v inverter was putting that out.

Turned out on reading the manual “6P” was “bP” which was simply telling me the battery was not connected ,so all was well.
On to getting the solar panels up and then connected.

I have a couple of panels on the roof and I’ll put 4 more up so 6 in one string should give me a start at least 30v each approx by 6 of = 180v. The MPPT voltage starts at 120 volts input so that will do for now .Better fix the roof before I put the rest of the panels up. This at least will allow me to change over from 24v to 48v and continue to have solar power available in the house. In Battery I’ll only have 100Ah at 48v so I’ll have to secure another string of 16 100Ah cells and BMS etc in the near future before China stops all trade with excessive tariffs.
Also I have a 16s BMS but Ill leave the two 8s BMS’s attached to each half for now and see if that causes any unforeseen problems. In operation the second in line BMS does not like that arrangement. I don’t know why but I bypassed that BMS for now.

When thats all done the system should supply about 27 amps of 240 volts as advertised but in the meantime I will gradually work up.

Settings time .
The settings I will change for my use in Australia are:-
01 sbu Solar/Battery/Utility
03 240 My voltage out needed
05 lbu Load/Battery/Utility
09 g|-d Grid disabled..default
10 oso Solar to battery only
11 20 Max charge amps atm
14 use User set battery
17 54v c/v voltage
18 53v float
19 48v low dc battery cut off (this is as high as it goes)
20 48v cut battery disharge
21 53v battery stop charging when grid available(?)


All the rest are left at default.
I’ll see what needs adjusting in operation . I took the float up to 54v temporarily to top up my batteries which were down a bit .

Well, put up 6 panels first as its full summer here and hot on the roof. Input is about 200 v so its fine to test . Current coming into battery was about 10 amps with a clamp meter so I’ll need to look at this as the amps out of the panels all in series should be 8 amps and if MPPT is actually happening then you would expect to get 16 amps or so charging but battery was filling up so maybe not.

Connected PV and also battery in 48v configuration . All running fine

It does not seem to have a wi-fi connection just USB and RS-232. Ill have a look at the supplied program when I get a longer usb lead.
Anything else related to the install I’ll tag on here.

It is very bright at night (I found you can turn off the backlight in the software ) and there does not seem to be any adjustment ,also the fans run all the time so its noisy at night . There is no adjustment on that either so this is best placed away from your sleeping areas.

The password to get into the software is “administrator”.

For more on LFP,LiFePo4 see here
On your battery, have a look at the discharge curves below to help understand at what voltage your cell is full and what voltage is empty.

View attachment 29306

Thanks for the detailed information. I am considering one of these MPP Solar units too, more because they can handle the PV input and have auto gen start ability. While I'm intrigued by the idea of running my loads without batteries during the day, how does this unit keep from harming devices that don't like to be shut down without warning? Does it just "pull the plug" so to speak, when the solar isn't enough to power the loads? Sorry for the amateur question.

 

[iamrich]

Thanks for the detailed information. I am considering one of these MPP Solar units too, more because they can handle the PV input and have auto gen start ability. While I'm intrigued by the idea of running my loads without batteries during the day, how does this unit keep from harming devices that don't like to be shut down without warning? Does it just "pull the plug" so to speak, when the solar isn't enough to power the loads? Sorry for the amateur question.

You can use AC from Grid if the panels are not producing power. At least that is how my LV2424 is. It will not feed back to the grid, just pull power in to feed the inverter (or charge the batteries if you have them).

 

[Skysthelimit]

You can use AC from Grid if the panels are not producing power. At least that is how my LV2424 is. It will not feed back to the grid, just pull power in to feed the inverter (or charge the batteries if you have them).

Thanks for your reply, but I should have clarified that my build will be totally off grid.

 

[snoobler]

Why did you get the hybrid then? High PV string voltage?

Nevermind. Been awhile since I read it.... can operate without battery.

 

[Bob Steel]

Thanks for the detailed information. I am considering one of these MPP Solar units too, more because they can handle the PV input and have auto gen start ability. While I'm intrigued by the idea of running my loads without batteries during the day, how does this unit keep from harming devices that don't like to be shut down without warning? Does it just "pull the plug" so to speak, when the solar isn't enough to power the loads? Sorry for the amateur question.

When there is no input from solar in that circumstance there can be no output. I have not done it so I don't know but usually when it has a problem it just shuts off completely and gives an alarm. I think you would have to personally switch on and off loads dependent on power available and it does tell you that.

 

[Frank in Thailand]

The last step:
21 53v battery stop charging when grid available(?)

You probably also have similar battery start charging voltage.

Those settings are intended to start and stop an optional AC generator

 

[Bob Steel]

The last step:
21 53v battery stop charging when grid available(?)

You probably also have similar battery start charging voltage.

Those settings are intended to start and stop an optional AC generator

You did not read it properly . I am not connected to a grid or generator ,that's why I have this model but that may help someone who needs that.

 

[Frank in Thailand]

I read totally correct.

You already placed the ? Behind as you probably wasn't sure what the setting is for.

I just told you.

That you don't have a generator doesn't change the function of the setting

 

[Bob Steel]

This statement from MPP Solar concerned me so I include it here . I believe this relates to an old problem with panels that does not exist with modern panels. Earth leakage of the negative in the panels themselves.

This is the statement from MPP Solar's HV2-5048

PV panel selection for HV2 models
Because the HV2 is designed based on high PV input which should require uses to wire panels in series as much as possible, without exceeding the max PV input limit. When selecting panels, be sure to use “non-grounding” panels as otherwise this could cause a leakage current problem on the HV2 inverters which are non-isolated design.

I have two strings of 8 normal 250 watt panels properly earthed with bite in clips and separate green yellow grounding wire on the mounting rails down to the combiner box where I have a breaker and a lightening arresting clamp which is also earthed on each string before combining . Input voltage on each string is less than 300V DC.

The inverter ,the combiner box ,the panels and the RCD on my 240v outlets are all earthed to the ground rod . My Inverter runs as normal so far and I have seen no issues yet.

My Grid is not connected to this inverter but Australian Grid is 240 volts single phase . That entails the neutral wire being earthed/grounded in the meter box . So fingers crossed . Its only been properly earthed for about 2 weeks. The two grounding rods , mine and the grids are about 20 feet physically apart in the ground.

 

[gloneyuk]

View attachment 29307



Installing MPP Hybrid Inverter 5KW
HV2-5048



Australia is 240 volt 50 hertz and my place is single phase. This model also suits India ,Germany and South America it says.
Cost $1156 AUD all up .(72c US conversion rate). Took 2 weeks to get to me.

I received this unit today with a little bit of knock around damage on the outside of the box but no damage to the Inverter as it is pretty well cushioned in dense foam. Handbook gives install details so into the install.
Comes with a CD that has Linux Inverter and battery monitoring program in Mac and Windows also. Installed the Linux 64 bit version . There is a 32 bit version too.



That installed and started fine so now to the inverter wall fitting . I already have my battery set up as 2 strings of 24 volts with appropriate BMS’s and active balancers on each so the first job is to get my solar panels on the roof and connect them to the inverter .

This unit will take up to 24 normal 250 watt panels in 2 strings for a total of 6000 watts PV input , 6KW. Well I think I have about 18 spare so that will have to do.

It will operate without a battery if needed and will feed into and take from the grid if needed. So while the sun is shining I can draw up to 27 amps of 240v and run my stuff without battery attached. I can feed the grid if I want also during the day. So logic says buy whatever solar panels you can first ,install them , buy this inverter and you are producing your own power daytime . Add batteries and the grid if you want them later. A small cheap battery bank will do to run light and TV at night. Anything you can cobble together to get to around 54 volts.

It has an inbuilt charger so if a battery is attached it will feed solar charge or utility charge into it at a rate you can set in 10 amp increments up to 80 amps. Handy if you have a small battery attached that can only take say 20 amps . You can limit the charge to 20 amps.

The software and manuals are all available on the web at

MPP Solar Inc » Download Center

www.mppsolar.com

Put up on the wall and ran cables to the battery . Heavy guage AWG2 wires specified but I had some old insulated heavy copper about 5 mm diameter copper cross section and that will have to do for now. Crimped on some lugs with about a 7mm hole and they worked well. I have a small insulated shifter but you may as well buy yourself a screwdriver handle type driver to suit a 10mm socket too as everything I meet seems to have 10mm nuts . With a screwdriver hand tool you won’t over-tighten and strip them. Insulate it with Heat shrink to avoid shorting terminals . I have a boat swage tool for crimping but have just ordered the hydraulic crimper type for $25 AUD on ebay.

I wanted to check the inverter was working properly so I connected up the 240 volt grid input to the A/C input point . With nothing else connected ,no battery , no solar PVs, no A/C output and inverter switched off, I turned on my other 24v inverter supplied a/c at the plug. It fired into life and gave me a flashing warning that said “6P”. That worried me a bit but I had a look through the menu and saw that it showed A/C coming in in standby mode so I switched the inverter on. That showed that the unit was ready to supply A/C out and I heard the relays click on. Showed 230 volts in and out because my present 24v inverter was putting that out.

Turned out on reading the manual “6P” was “bP” which was simply telling me the battery was not connected ,so all was well.
On to getting the solar panels up and then connected.

I have a couple of panels on the roof and I’ll put 4 more up so 6 in one string should give me a start at least 30v each approx by 6 of = 180v. The MPPT voltage starts at 120 volts input so that will do for now .Better fix the roof before I put the rest of the panels up. This at least will allow me to change over from 24v to 48v and continue to have solar power available in the house. In Battery I’ll only have 100Ah at 48v so I’ll have to secure another string of 16 100Ah cells and BMS etc in the near future before China stops all trade with excessive tariffs.
Also I have a 16s BMS but Ill leave the two 8s BMS’s attached to each half for now and see if that causes any unforeseen problems. In operation the second in line BMS does not like that arrangement. I don’t know why but I bypassed that BMS for now.

When thats all done the system should supply about 27 amps of 240 volts as advertised but in the meantime I will gradually work up.

Settings time .
The settings I will change for my use in Australia are:-
01 sbu Solar/Battery/Utility
03 240 My voltage out needed
05 lbu Load/Battery/Utility
09 g|-d Grid disabled..default
10 oso Solar to battery only
11 20 Max charge amps atm
14 use User set battery
17 54v c/v voltage
18 53v float
19 48v low dc battery cut off (this is as high as it goes)
20 48v cut battery disharge
21 53v battery stop charging when grid available(?)


All the rest are left at default.
I’ll see what needs adjusting in operation . I took the float up to 54v temporarily to top up my batteries which were down a bit .

Well, put up 6 panels first as its full summer here and hot on the roof. Input is about 200 v so its fine to test . Current coming into battery was about 10 amps with a clamp meter so I’ll need to look at this as the amps out of the panels all in series should be 8 amps and if MPPT is actually happening then you would expect to get 16 amps or so charging but battery was filling up so maybe not.

Connected PV and also battery in 48v configuration . All running fine

It does not seem to have a wi-fi connection just USB and RS-232. Ill have a look at the supplied program when I get a longer usb lead.
Anything else related to the install I’ll tag on here.

It is very bright at night (I found you can turn off the backlight in the software ) and there does not seem to be any adjustment ,also the fans run all the time so its noisy at night . There is no adjustment on that either so this is best placed away from your sleeping areas.

The password to get into the software is “administrator”.

For more on LFP,LiFePo4 see here
On your battery, have a look at the discharge curves below to help understand at what voltage your cell is full and what voltage is empty.

View attachment 29306

Hi just wondering is there a limit to the amount of kW battery I can connect I know it has to be 48 volt

 

[Frank in Thailand]

Hi just wondering is there a limit to the amount of kW battery I can connect I know it has to be 48 volt

Welcome to the forum.

I understand that you are new to the forum and not yet know your way around.

Placing an unrelated question inside a thread of other user is considered "rude" and "hijacking".

You can place your own new questions

To answer your question:
No, there is no limit.

The amount of sets of cells increase, and that can be challenging on its own.
Not all cells or packs are created equal, and some mismatch will occur.

A good BMS should iron out the difference
(Each set should have its own BMS)

A 48v set can be 15 or 16 cells (the last more often used)
A set also can contain multiple times 16 cells, 32, 48, 80..
Depending on the battery cells is is preferred (many smaller capacity cells) or advised against (+200Ah)

As you can understand building a set of 16 or 80 cells is different in complexity.

Then placing the 80 cells sets in paralel (example) say 10 sets, 800 cells..

You understand that this increase the risk of a failure.
More complex managing it.

It doesn't matter 16, 80, 800, 80.000 cells..
Nor their capacity.

Personally I have 4 sets of batteries, each 16 cells. 4 x BMS.
Little over 50 kWh.

If I had the need (and the money) there is no technical reason to not extend to 500 kWh.

Except increasing complexity.