diy solar

diy solar

Inverter/Charger for use with horrible park power? RV to run soley off Solar/Batteries.

All good capacity meters need a way of measuring current, voltage and use an algorithm to calculate capacity. Probably the best one out there is a Victron $$$$. But there’s others that do fine job that I’ve tested or will in the future. They all come with a mouse print manual written in chinglish except the Victon & the KG140F. The others are sold under different names for the same unit on EBay and Amazon. In any case, select the version that can measure amps for system expansion in the future. There are two ways of measuring current. One is a shunt and the other is a Hall effect coil (looks like an ac current transformer, but it isn’t). The one I have in-use has worked well for a year now and has the easiest display to understand at a glance. That one uses a Hall effect coil. It uses wireless communication between the head unit and it’s module only, not to any other devices. The one with my hand in it I haven’t tried yet but it does have the most features and Bluetooth. The worst one is the one with the single button. Single color display and pain to set. Really, are buttons that expensive or ugly so you only get one? The one shown with the ribbon cable has a simple multi color display and works ok. All but the Victon and the single button can control an external relay for hi or low current or voltage conditions if can figure out the manual. Every one of these can drift in the capacity figures and need to be periodically reset to be absolutely accurate but you will grow tired and just let it be. Usually never more error than 5% if you never touch it again. Some battery’s bms’s that have Bluetooth do an amazing job of calculating capacity. 36E68BEC-CA19-4E1B-B057-7F0BD6494FDA.jpeg2A268861-AAC5-44BD-941B-56FDA1404167.jpeg0723F143-A954-4EFC-9071-62BF67DB60B0.jpegA5FBA29D-7E4C-4434-9D0F-9547EC69CD47.jpeg
 
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With that kind of setup to read the outgoing and incoming current to the battery, I would need to put that between the battery and inverter, but connect the charging lines at the posts of the inverter as well so the charge current would flow back through it correct?
 
I picked up another piece, based on some of the suggestions in other threads I ordered a Mean Well 1200W (40A) charger from TRC Electronics. Their support staff was very good with all my questions and it seems like it will do the job for me while not taxing the park grid too much.

Just have to get an inverter and small MPPT now. Also going to get the meter above most likely. Have fusing and stuff on the way.
 
Last month was dealing with a large step back as those Wulillis batteries were not great.

Details in the Wulills thread ( I should have searched )

Now on the search again, may build my own this time.
 
I am finally getting there. I mounted my three panels on the porch, and have a solar charge controller I tested at home, works well with these in series. I ordered the MeanWell charger for my 24V setup, and (8) of the 305AH Envision cells from 18650 along with a JK BMS that does 250A continuous and 2A balancing. Currently picking through the 24V to 120V 4000W inverters off Amazon.

I have a power shunt with the color display everyone uses, cables, ends, the crimper for it etc etc. But a few odds and ends I am not sure about.

I bought DC rated breakers from AliExpress, they works on the Charge controller to battery, but I felt they were making the MPPT tracking work oddly on the panels to controller. I noticed they have little diode symbols on them, so does that prevent the controller from seeing back into the array to make adjustments?

I also bought some big blade fuses for the battery to inverter. Is there anything else I should have?
 
Is that a Class T fuse? That's the type of fuse that we usually recommend here on the forum for a LiFePO4 battery.
I think it is. Are they preferred to circuit breakers (DC rated) I also have a 200A 48V rated breaker and was weighing the two.

I was trying to nail down wire size. The run from the batteries to the inverter will be less than 2 feet. Max amp draw about 150A. Is 2 gauge OK or should I just do 1 gauge?
 
The wire gauge calculator at BayMarineSupply came up with the following:

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2 gauge will give you a voltage drop well under the 3% maximum that we want to see. Of course, 1 gauge is even better. Bigger cable is never wrong, except for how hard it hits your bank account.

The use of 24 volts is a conservative number. Most of the time, your battery will be above 26 volts, which makes the voltage drop look even better. But on the off chance that you run your battery down to 24 volts or below, you want the least voltage drop that you can get.

I run 2/0 from my 280 Ah LiFePO4 DIY 12 volt battery with 120 amp BMS to the common bus bars. I have two of those batteries. From the common bus bars to the inverter I run double 2/0 cables.
 
The wire gauge calculator at BayMarineSupply came up with the following:

View attachment 155482

2 gauge will give you a voltage drop well under the 3% maximum that we want to see. Of course, 1 gauge is even better. Bigger cable is never wrong, except for how hard it hits your bank account.

The use of 24 volts is a conservative number. Most of the time, your battery will be above 26 volts, which makes the voltage drop look even better. But on the off chance that you run your battery down to 24 volts or below, you want the least voltage drop that you can get.

I run 2/0 from my 280 Ah LiFePO4 DIY 12 volt battery with 120 amp BMS to the common bus bars. I have two of those batteries. From the common bus bars to the inverter I run double 2/0 cables.
I think for the price and length I will need, I can get 2/0 from Princess Auto here in Canada for $10 a foot, max out of pocket $60. I sort of forgot that wire gauge crosses over after you go from 1 to 1/0. I had assumed 1/0 was better.

I also forgot I have to wire up the BMS. When I do that, should the cables be made so they are equal length through the BMS and the direct line.
 
1/0 is bigger than 1. Kind of a goofy naming standard.

If you can get welding cable, it's a lot easier to work with as it is very flexible.
 
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