For the Solar panels, it’s not so much as disconnecting the SCC or Solar Panels as it is making sure no power is going in, like doing the work at night when they produce no power, or tripping a breaker. Either way, a multimeter needs To ensure the line is not hot.
THe battery can be shut off Easy enough, but the comment I’ll make on that is the protection, like the fuse needs to be before the switch.
If you are getting a class T fuse, just make sure you get the holder. This is not just bolt the fuse in, but the fuse and fuse holder. I like the covered fuses also. I don’t like hot terminals so close to the inverter I may be doing adjustments to. You may be in luck with the studs. It may be 5/16ths already so it may be a drop in fit.
THe reason these Class T fuses are in the manuals, especially for the lithium batteries, is they can deliver so much more amps so quick, they can blow lesser fuses and then the current still flows through the circuit by arcing across the gap. That is the higher AIC rating of these fuses.
When you get this figured out how you’re going to fix for the short term, perhaps for the appt in September, they can move the fuse you buy before the switch.
That underrated fuse is definitely causing you the issues. 40 amps is not good for a 2000 watt inverter for 12 VDC, 24 VDC, or 48 VDC systems.