diy solar

diy solar

Inverter Kicking Off

I would start simple and charge that battery to SOK’s stated fully charged voltage. You know it’s not DC over voltage. So it’s DC under voltage or AC over amperage on startup. The freezer may work as a fridge but the start amps may be higher than if it were working at 0 deg f. You could switch back to freezer mode. The thermostat cycle differential may be smaller on the fridge setting causing a restart before refrigerant is fully equalized. We already know the refrigerant will be at higher pressures than at freezer temperatures. From the picture I don’t think you have adequate ventilation on the sides. The condenser will be hotter as a fridge than freezer.

The manual points to a Over Voltage fault and its been suggested the Inverter is defective. But I do agree with your thoughts on pressures.


After working in the commercial HVAC/R field for 30 years, I have been very aware of compressor overload due to high evaporator temperature loads. We used various methods to overcome the pull down load over current condition, a crankcase pressure regulator was one. This is totally un-related to her problem but to correct folks who get info off Google and post here.

 
I still don't think this is correct. (again limited knowledge here.. but if the motor does not have to run at its full capacity doesn't it use less watts? and are you saying the kill-a-watt meter is not accurate when it reads 70 watts with compressor on? Regardless sounds like 1000 watt would be appropriate for this fridge
While the motor is running it uses the same number Watts. As the temperature controller shuts the motor off some % of the day, the motor uses less Watt Hours. Say the motor needs 100 Watts. When the motor is running it uses 100W, that is 0.84 amperes at 120 Volts. It uses this power all the time it is running. Running 24 hours a day that is 2400 Watt Hours in one day. If the controller switches the motor off 25% of the time, that is the motor running 6 hours a day, or 600 Watt Hours for one day. The motor still needs 0.84 amperes at 120 volts when it is running. That would be approximately 10 amperes from the 12 volt battery. These numbers are just as an example to help explain Watt Hours and Watts. I'm sure our genius crew will explain that I am wrong because 100 watts at 120 volts is not 0.84 amps. Or maybe, that is not how motors work.

Important. "Grounding" the case lug. In my van builds; The battery bank negative is connected to the van chassis. The case lugs on devices are connected to the chassis. My inverter manual lists case lug cable size 8 awg. I have used 4 awg and everything is fine. Inverter dc feed cables are 2/0 awg.
If you have a shoreline connection. That green earth wire needs be connected to the chassis. But only needed when plugged into the grid.
As posted above, but needing repetition, do not have any ground rod or such thing on the vehicle.
 
So much information to process and a lot of it going nowhere. If your living in a RV and its connected to a proper electrical service and its got a ground wire thats all you need per the NEC. Getting your inverter connected to that RV ground may or may not help. I am thinking again that your inverter is bad. You can run a temporary ground via a jumper wire to try if you wish.
I'm living in my RV boondocking so getting it functioning will really improve my quality of life. As it is I'm juggling working in the dark, food going bad etc. I'm wondering if the fridge does have a high amp defrost since now it's only going off after 8 hours!

Regardless, just might try a new inverter
 
While the motor is running it uses the same number Watts. As the temperature controller shuts the motor off some % of the day, the motor uses less Watt Hours. Say the motor needs 100 Watts. When the motor is running it uses 100W, that is 0.84 amperes at 120 Volts. It uses this power all the time it is running. Running 24 hours a day that is 2400 Watt Hours in one day. If the controller switches the motor off 25% of the time, that is the motor running 6 hours a day, or 600 Watt Hours for one day. The motor still needs 0.84 amperes at 120 volts when it is running. That would be approximately 10 amperes from the 12 volt battery. These numbers are just as an example to help explain Watt Hours and Watts. I'm sure our genius crew will explain that I am wrong because 100 watts at 120 volts is not 0.84 amps. Or maybe, that is not how motors work.

Important. "Grounding" the case lug. In my van builds; The battery bank negative is connected to the van chassis. The case lugs on devices are connected to the chassis. My inverter manual lists case lug cable size 8 awg. I have used 4 awg and everything is fine. Inverter dc feed cables are 2/0 awg.
If you have a shoreline connection. That green earth wire needs be connected to the chassis. But only needed when plugged into the grid.
As posted above, but needing repetition, do not have any ground rod or such thing on the vehicle.
When you plug in to shore power there's a green wire somewhere?

I'm hardly ever going to be plugged in. I'm relying on solar and my generator if need be.

I didn't know about grounding the battery negative. I hear that, I won't do the rod thing.
 
The inverter manual also talks about status lights.
Usually the sequence and combination of buzzer and lights will give more insight.
But, I understand that you are over the whole troubleshooting thing.
Well now it's been a good 8 hours since the last instance. It's strange to me that with every attempt at a fix the interval grows longer between shut offs. If I remember it just switches to a positive red light. As I was falling asleep I'm thinking hmm, that's probably intermittent.
 
I would start simple and charge that battery to SOK’s stated fully charged voltage. You know it’s not DC over voltage. So it’s DC under voltage or AC over amperage on startup. The freezer may work as a fridge but the start amps may be higher than if it were working at 0 deg f. You could switch back to freezer mode. The thermostat cycle differential may be smaller on the fridge setting causing a restart before refrigerant is fully equalized. We already know the refrigerant will be at higher pressures than at freezer temperatures. From the picture I don’t think you have adequate ventilation on the sides. The condenser will be hotter as a fridge than freezer.
I charged the battery to it's full state initially and then again made sure to a couple days ago before using the inverter.

I have hardly any ventilation on the sides but about a foot in the back. I thought that would be okay since that's where the vent is. But maybe sides are necessary
 
Well now it's been a good 8 hours since the last instance. It's strange to me that with every attempt at a fix the interval grows longer between shut offs. If I remember it just switches to a positive red light. As I was falling asleep I'm thinking hmm, that's probably intermittent.
I take it that intermittent is equivalent to blinking and constant is equivalent to not blinking.
Doesn't mean I'm right just my interpretation.
 
I just wish the manuals were a little more in depth and didn't leave it up to guessing like that. But I do think continuous wouldn't let up. It's now hour 9 and still hasn't shut down.

It's not it my nature to quit troubleshooting, this is just getting a little excessive
 
From the manual “ 2. Under voltage protection: The inverter will automatically shut down when the input DC voltage is higher than 16V. The buzzer will whistle continuously. The green light will turn off and the red light will turn on. Turn off the inverter and charge the battery before continuing use.”
I think the “16V” is a typo.
 
I need to change one of my posts. I relied on my defective memory, but when I consulted my manual I found this: Size the inverter watts by multiplying the running watts on the data plate of the refrigeration compressor by 5. I previous posted by 3. 3 is for industrial motors.

The inverter will shut down on overvoltage. Overvoltage can be common on solar panels controlled by an inexpensive solar charger. Solar overvoltage is random. As your problem seems.
 
Size the inverter watts by multiplying the running watts on the data plate of the refrigeration compressor by 5
Possible/likely. Maybe?
My 5CF hits 800W+ for under one second and settles at 60-80W running. I’ve seen it hit 850 or 880 but the digital readout changes so fast I’m not sure, but the “8” stays for a half second.

If I had a 600W inverter on hand I might test the ‘5 times’ recommendation. 1000W MPP and 1200W Giandel both handle it fine as does the QZRELB 2000W
 
I have similar issues to those described here: running a 120v 3.5 CF Chinese manufactured freezer as a refrigerator off an invertor. The freezer specs say it takes 1 amp to run and 4 amps to start. My inverter (Giandel 2000/4000W) is a little bigger and doesn't kick off but the inverter cooling fan kicks on at startup regardless of air temp, defeating my purpose of seeking off grid solitude from leaf blowers. I think my solution will be to buy DC powered refrigeration and use the inverter for only those things that make noise anyway (swamp cooler). I am a newbie and have difficulty wrapping my head around some of the details still but the attached graph shows what is happening with my setup as the freezer cycles on. That sharp voltage drop at startup looks like more than 4 amps/480 watts to get it started. My freezer cycles on every 6 minutes or so and runs for a couple of minutes each cycle. This can't be good on equipment long term?
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot_20220507-091523.png
    Screenshot_20220507-091523.png
    62.5 KB · Views: 3
inverter (Giandel 2000/4000W) is a little bigger and doesn't kick off but the inverter cooling fan kicks on at startup regardless of air temp, defeating my purpose of seeking off grid solitude from leaf blowers.
The cooling fans come on at I think 115*F or something and/or when load is like 700W. My Giandel, MPP, and the Reliable/QZRELB all punch the fans when fridge starts up, and then they drop back out and go off in one or maybe two seconds.
That is normal.
newbie and have difficulty wrapping my head around some of the details still but the attached graph shows what is happening with my setup as the freezer cycles on. That sharp voltage drop at startup looks like more than 4 amps/480 watts to get it started.
My 5CF fridge hits 750-850W on startup, within seconds is 60W.
My freezer cycles on every 6 minutes or so and runs for a couple of minutes each cycle. This can't be good on equipment long term?
My 5CF fridge doesn’t cycle that often.

I like these nicer units that have fans over the cheapos that run all the time or not at all and require frequent replacements.
 
While the motor is running it uses the same number Watts. As the temperature controller shuts the motor off some % of the day, the motor uses less Watt Hours. Say the motor needs 100 Watts. When the motor is running it uses 100W, that is 0.84 amperes at 120 Volts. It uses this power all the time it is running. Running 24 hours a day that is 2400 Watt Hours in one day. If the controller switches the motor off 25% of the time, that is the motor running 6 hours a day, or 600 Watt Hours for one day. The motor still needs 0.84 amperes at 120 volts when it is running. That would be approximately 10 amperes from the 12 volt battery. These numbers are just as an example to help explain Watt Hours and Watts. I'm sure our genius crew will explain that I am wrong because 100 watts at 120 volts is not 0.84 amps. Or maybe, that is not how motors work.

Important. "Grounding" the case lug. In my van builds; The battery bank negative is connected to the van chassis. The case lugs on devices are connected to the chassis. My inverter manual lists case lug cable size 8 awg. I have used 4 awg and everything is fine. Inverter dc feed cables are 2/0 awg.
If you have a shoreline connection. That green earth wire needs be connected to the chassis. But only needed when plugged into the grid.
As posted above, but needing repetition, do not have any ground rod or such thing on the vehicle.
With all due respect and most humbly that is just plain wrong. Your load will vary in time also. If it did not we would not need fuses or overloads or trips on our inverters to shut it down. It is certainly nice when the load "stays the same" as we all try to achieve that. The temp of the gas (the load) will vary hopefully not wildly and we strive to make that consistent. The temp of the atmosphere in your container is irrelevant to the motor load. I have seen a cheap china refrig that had no high pressure switch on the compressor that just relied on the motor amps to trip or "just blow up I guess"?
 
Last edited:
I'm returning my 1000 watt inverter to GoWise. Apparently if they test it and its functional they'll send it back, if not they'll replace it. Either way I've decided that it's not to be trusted and am looking at inverters while I'm away from my RV hoping to get it all sorted upon return.

I had the thought that I could potentially use all my handy AC outlets by plugging my RVs cord that normally would plug into shore power into my inverter. This Victron seems to have that outlet already:

Thoughts? Is there some grave danger or just plain issue with doing so? I'd written it off as too difficult to have all the existing AC outlets run off solar, but now it seems suspiciously simple. About the converter- I would just flip the breakers to it before plugging in?

Also considering this Samlex:

 
Last edited:
had the thought that I could potentially use all my handy AC outlets by plugging my RVs cord that normally would plug into shore power into my inverter
I have my inverter output running to a GFCI outlet via a permanently wired heavy extension cord. Then the 30A RV cord is plugged into a 15A adapter which is plugged into the GFCI outlet. An added layer of safety though some might claim unnecessary.
Is there some grave danger or just plain issue with doing so? I'd written it off as too difficult to have all the existing AC outlets run off solar, but now it seems suspiciously simple.
There is no grave danger with one exception that I’ll lightly touch on (below).

My 30A cord has been plugged into one inverter or another for four years.

Your RV fuse box should not have the neutral/white and bare/green bonded. It most likely does not but it is worthwhile testing that.
The RV cord on shorepower gets its N-G bond through the plug-in stanchion at a campground- or wherever it’s plugged in: inverter, generator. That’s how it should be and reflects electrical codes.
However, it seems most inverters do not handle the N-G bond but leave it “open.” So with plugging in to the inverter with the N-G made at the GFCI outlet arrangement like I did you DO get the safety the green/bare/ground being bonded so a fault can trip a breaker in your panel. Then, when you unplug to use shorepower you also disconnect the N-G bond allowing the plug-in stanchion or whatever to make that important N-G safety bond.
If using an AIO to distribute power there’s different means of handling that but I’m assuming you’re not using an AIO since you mentioned the converter:
About the converter- I would just flip the breakers to it before plugging in?
Yes, breaker off on solar, breaker on wihen plugged to shorepower of any source.
 
With all due respect and most humbly that is just plain wrong. Your load will vary in time also. If it did not we would not need fuses or overloads or trips on our inverters to shut it down. It is certainly nice when the load "stays the same" as we all try to achieve that. The temp of the gas (the load) will vary hopefully not wildly and we strive to make that consistent. The temp of the atmosphere in your container is irrelevant to the motor load. I have seen a cheap china refrig that had no high pressure switch on the compressor that just relied on the motor amps to trip or "just blow up I guess"?
Is not that what I am saying about Watt and Watt Hours.?
 
I'm returning my 1000 watt inverter to GoWise. Apparently if they test it and its functional they'll send it back, if not they'll replace it. Either way I've decided that it's not to be trusted and am looking at inverters while I'm away from my RV hoping to get it all sorted upon return.

I had the thought that I could potentially use all my handy AC outlets by plugging my RVs cord that normally would plug into shore power into my inverter. This Victron seems to have that outlet already:

Thoughts? Is there some grave danger or just plain issue with doing so? I'd written it off as too difficult to have all the existing AC outlets run off solar, but now it seems suspiciously simple. About the converter- I would just flip the breakers to it before plugging in?

Also considering this Samlex:

I vote for Samlex psw inverters. I have a 2000W and it has been perfect.
 
I vote for Samlex psw inverters. I have a 2000W and it has been perfect.
Those and a couple others people rate highly.
Three I’ve used from the lower shelves- all pure sine wave- are Giandel, QZRELB, and currently use MPP AIO.

They work if you are not willing to spend more for more quality.
 
Back
Top