diy solar

diy solar

Is my DIY ground mound idea stupid?

I’m in Kentucky, 38° latitude. I am presently building a 20.6 KW array. 48 4 x 4 posts, 34 pieces of 12 gauge unistrut. PV array angle 45°, for simplicity of build and better winter performance. 53° would’ve been perfect for winter time, but on my 36° slope behind the house, that would’ve put me 16+ feet in the air on the back, whereas I am at 13 feet now. If you need the most power in the winter I would fix it at 55° or whatever is recommended.
 
considering just mounting them at 90deg
What did you wind up doing?

I have 800W of panels mounted 90* in Vermont.
At higher latitudes the loss isn’t as big of a deal as getting nothing by having snow on them. AND at higher latitudes solar can really very annoying with getting not near enough sun in winter anyway. Last summer I left them vertical and had plenty of charging, just never hit max output.

I would like to hear what you did and how it’s performance has been for you.
 
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I have something similar. Instead of a pipe going through the 4x4s I have a bolt.
I framed a pair of panels between each post (since I'm using a 2s string)
PVC pipe for levers to make tilt adjustment, Bolt through the pipe into hole in the 2x4 to lock in place

View attachment 65493View attachment 65494View attachment 65495View attachment 65496

PS:
The panels in the back are on a temporary mount until I get the ideal winter alignment. It too is adjustable using hinges.
In the second picture, how did you attach the panels to the 2x4?
 
In the second picture, how did you attach the panels to the 2x4?
You've found the "weak link".
Everything is bolted except for the horizontal cross pieces which are screwed (deck screws) to the adjustable vertical studs.
The panels are bolted to the cross pieces using Z mounts
 
You've found the "weak link".
Everything is bolted except for the horizontal cross pieces which are screwed (deck screws) to the adjustable vertical studs.
The panels are bolted to the cross pieces using Z mounts
Guess I'm not following. Could you take a close up pic of how it is mounted?
 
Guess I'm not following. Could you take a close up pic of how it is mounted?
I'll try and get some photos tomorrow.
In the second picture, how did you attach the panels to the 2x4?
Not sure of your question,

I used (4) 4x4 posts to mount 3 frames holding 2 panels each.
the frames are nothing more than (2) 2x4s going one way and another 2 going across them.

in the first photo you can see the bolt going through the first 4x4 post and one of the adjustable vertical 2x4 studs.
on top of the adjustable studs are (2) 2x4 cross pieces and the panels are attached to those using Z mounts
you can see the z mounts holding the panel just off the cross pieces
solar-mount-1-jpg.65493


At the bottom of the adjustable stud I attached PVC pipe with a bolt to act like a swivel.
Pushing/pulling the PVC pipe is easy
a "locking bolt" going through the pipe and into a 2x4 attached across all the 4x4 posts is hard to see on the nearest pipe, but there

Each 2x4 mounting frame fits between the posts
on each end there is only one 2x4, the inside posts have (2) 2x4s attached.
 
Now I see. From one of the earlier pics, I thought you might have bolted the panel frames directly to the 2x4 studs.
 
I am kicking around the idea of repurposing a residential aluminum extension ladder by cutting out the wrungs and using the side rails to attch the panels to. You can buy them cheap at auctions Yard Sales, FB market place or Craig's List, etc. Very sturdy as well. And depending on your array, the lengths of these ladders are made to 40'. Anyone else do this?
Just curious if you ever did this with the aluminum ladder. It makes a lot of sense! How to secure it though to the panels?
 
Use steel pipe, 2.5" schedule 40 nicely nests in 3" angle, welded onto the pipe top, then a trailer axle ubolt with even moderate torque will lock that sucker down tight, but still adjust easily when loosened.
 
Use steel pipe, 2.5" schedule 40 nicely nests in 3" angle, welded onto the pipe top, then a trailer axle ubolt with even moderate torque will lock that sucker down tight, but still adjust easily when loosened.
Do you have a picture? I like this idea.
 
Do you have a picture? I like this idea.
Hit your local scrap yards, I almost never buy brand new pipe, of any size. I just welded up a rack for 4 260 watt modules, using the same design as I used for my 12 module arrays, but lighter duty of course. 2.5" pipe for the center pipe, 1 1/14" x 1/8" for the "runners" that the modules bolt to, and trussed with more 1 1/4" angle. Very quick and easy to build, and if you don't weld yourself, any competent welder could knock it out in a couple hours. Stiff as needed, in all directions, max strength/min material. Proven, in a couple decades of harshe Idaho mountain conditions! But not engineered! The design takes full advantage of the inherent strength of the modules frame that is already there, thus no material there that is not needed. Key, is the under the main tube struts, that stiffens the main runners. I'm not a welder, mostly just a carpenter, but there is nothing critical here that demands perfect welds.
 

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Hit your local scrap yards, I almost never buy brand new pipe, of any size. I just welded up a rack for 4 260 watt modules, using the same design as I used for my 12 module arrays, but lighter duty of course. 2.5" pipe for the center pipe, 1 1/14" x 1/8" for the "runners" that the modules bolt to, and trussed with more 1 1/4" angle. Very quick and easy to build, and if you don't weld yourself, any competent welder could knock it out in a couple hours. Stiff as needed, in all directions, max strength/min material. Proven, in a couple decades of harshe Idaho mountain conditions! But not engineered! The design takes full advantage of the inherent strength of the modules frame that is already there, thus no material there that is not needed. Key, is the under the main tube struts, that stiffens the main runners. I'm not a welder, mostly just a carpenter, but there is nothing critical here that demands perfect welds.
A cheap mig welder can make short work of a job like that. Horrorfreight has decent cheap mig welders too…
I have two Miller mig rigs, and they sing perfect welds with moderate practice.

Your build looks pretty simple. A bit heavy, but strong.
 
A cheap mig welder can make short work of a job like that. Horrorfreight has decent cheap mig welders too…
I have two Miller mig rigs, and they sing perfect welds with moderate practice.

Your build looks pretty simple. A bit heavy, but strong.
Yes, it's heavy, ("crude, but primitive!") but did I mention I have a crane! Simple trumped any weight savings, as in going with aluminum. All Lincoln MIG welded, my stick welder gathers dust these days unless I am out of the shop, then I take my Honda welder/generator. Stick welding kinda sucks after MIG! When using the bigger dia pipe, I have found it easier to scrounge at a scrap yard, as most sought after is the smaller stuff.

Here's the pic of the 1040 watt array I made for the spring's use (water pumping) , and then decided to make portable by Kubota ing it up hill 1/4 mile nearer my main powershed for my grid tie system during the cold weather months. It's power would have been going to waste otherwise for 4 or 5 months out of the year. The clamping force of the big U bolts is such, that just two would be plenty, the 3" channel and the 2.5" pipe is the right combo for this, easy to swivel but locks down tight.
 

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