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diy solar

Is there a way to track and quantify solar output (off-grid)?

DenverGuy

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I recently installed a simple system for a detached garage. (I didn't do it to save money). It powers the opener and two LED lights. I did this project
as an experiment in order to learn about solar and how it works. Again, this is not about money.

As it is summer, I have the back door of my townhouse open, and I ran an extension cord to the inverter (35 feet) and am powering my computer system
with it during the day. Two 24" monitors, Intel NUC PC (very small), modem, and UPS. The system easily keeps up and the battery stays full.

System: 100W panel, 100ah battery, and 1500W pure sine wave inverter.

I can see how many amp hours it produces during the day, but I would like to somehow break that down further. Is there a way to do that? If I want to see how
much money the electricity that is is generating is worth at the end of the day, how do you convert amp hours to KWH?

Has anyone seen a simple spreadsheet or tracking tool in order to keep a record of daily output?
Thanks.
 
Wow - thanks. Does it matter if there is no load? All the power goes right to the battery.
 
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You could connect a Kill-a-Watt to the extension cord from the inverter leading to your load. It will provide you with the run-time and load output. Kill-a-Watt is about 30 bucks on Amazon or at Harbor Freight.
 
You could connect a Kill-a-Watt to the extension cord from the inverter leading to your load. It will provide you with the run-time and load output. Kill-a-Watt is about 30 bucks on Amazon or at Harbor Freight.
Is a load and a battery one in the same?
 
Is a load and a battery one in the same?
For the purposes indicated in your original question, you seem only to be concerned with usable power. I.e. what would normally be delivered by your utility and used to power your loads. There are losses inherent to the electronics which do the conversions, so if you are trying to calculate money saved, a simple plug-in monitor, like the suggested Kill-A-Watt meter, would be the easiest solution. Multiply the Kwh used by the cost from your utility and that is your savings.

Obviously, the battery is also a load when it is charging, but I would remove that from your equation for the sake of simplicity. If you start and stop your metering when the battery is at full SOC, it's already rolled into your total production/consumption.

Also be aware that there is no production beyond consumption. In other words, if you aren't using it, it's just potential. Those bright, sunny days which max out your battery before 9am, while still powering your loads, means that your system could do more on those days and you wouldn't be able to measure that potential unless the system is pushed right up to it's limits. Given the spotty nature of solar production, this is easier said than done.
 
This meter will record Kwh used if you clamp it onto the wire feeding your load. You can split out the black and white wire on a short extension cord to clamp onto one of the wires.
no be any energy (appliances) that you use during the day would not be measured by battery shunt because the watts go from solar charge controller to the inverters (load)
 
You have the P30L, right? It records daily production. That production will include 3-6% higher than your use due to heat while charging, the 2-3% efficiency loss of the inverter, and the 24/7 standby consumption. “Maybe” higher.

but you take the P30L data for a week in KWH, multiply that by your utility’s kWh charge, get a dollar figure, and reset the counter. (It does record ‘global’ I discovered but the directions don’t detail that.) Four weeks summation will be your monthly savings.

But don’t get too excited- I’m 100% off grid and my epever’s kw reveal multiplied by $0.165/kWh local cost is not very much money…
 
Yes, I have a P30L. It might sound funny, but on sunny days when the battery is full I run an extension cord across the deck to my kitchen an run the computer system, a rice cooker, or I will use a leaf blower, shop vac, etc., being sure not to let the battery go to less than 12.2V.
Thanks for your answers!
 
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