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Is this enough lug contact?

starchy

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I don't yet have any any other 4/0 lugs so I've been drilling through and modifying these proprietary ones made for Anderson connectors. They're not exactly straight but contact seems pretty good. Thoughts?
 

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I don't yet have any any other 4/0 lugs so I've been drilling through and modifying these proprietary ones made for Anderson connectors. They're not exactly straight but contact seems pretty good. Thoughts?
I would say 'maybe'. My concern is that the odd shape of the lugs might be lifting them just enough to reduce contact. You definitely want check them when under load and make sure they are not heating up.
 
The trouble is, at the currents we have "pretty good" is often not good enough :(

Even at our system's relatively modest currents (<100A) it doesn't take much for joints to start getting warm.

And of course, all that warmth is lost energy!

I'm with the others, get the correct lugs and swap them out ASAP.

You may also want a smear of electrical jointing compound.
 
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It is very easy to check voltage drop across the connection using a voltmeter, (multi-meter).

But I do wonder why you don't buy the lugs you need? I get them overnight or at worst 3 days shipping. Or I wander into a marine retailer as West Marine and pay a small premium. Much less than those lugs cost.
 
In the third picture, the shoulder of the lug is forcing the contact surface to not be level. You may have a poor connection there and it's a prime example of using the wrong tool for the job.

Like Zil said above, West Marine does carry lugs. My local Ace Hardware also had a good selection of copper lugs, but they were not coated, just bare copper. Most of my lugs came from TemcoIndustrial.com.
 
I dont see anything wrong with them (the note shoulder above should be noted). On the post connections a standard lug isnt going to offer you an more surface area contact than what you currently have.
 
I would file the lugs flat and make sure the orientation of the lug provides 100% contact to the terminal contact patch. Maybe double check the crimps . Over crimping can be detrimental
 
UL listed 4/0 lugs are $5. And a hammer crimper is $20. No reason not to do it properly.
4/0 lugs really need to be hydraulically crimped to cold fuse strands and lug body together
I agree with UL lugs being $5 and to hydraulically crimp, not hammer crimp. Appears in the OP’s pics, the crimp is hammered.
It is very easy to check voltage drop across the connection using a voltmeter, (multi-meter).
I just want to add that if the load is small, the voltage drop may not show.

I would get rid of those lugs, buy the UL ones, and spend $100 on a hydraulic crimper.
 
This will work, but I notice that hydraulic crimper is in metric. If you buy SAE wire sizes like 4/0, you may have to go one size underneath on the dies. That will make “Wings” on each side. I see nothing wrong with having wings.

I have a SAE TEMCO 10 AWG to 500 MCM crimper. The correct sized lug is too big, and I have to go one down, and I get wings anyways. A 4/0 wire I crimp in a 4/0 lug can be pulled out by hand, so I go down to a 2/0 die with 4/0 wire And this makes wings.

Bare copper may work, but I recommend the ones I used that are tinned:

 
I use the same brand of lugs. Hydraulic crimpers are cool. Hopefully you can find the correct size die in your kit.

My signature has a link to battery melt down, in case you have any questions about heat.
 
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