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Isolator switches for a 48V lithium battery

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davelondon

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I was planning on using Blue Sea 6006 isolator switches for my 48V LiFePO4 battery system (max current would be 125A), however Blue Sea technical support reminded me that they are only rated to 48V, and a 48V lithium system will peak at higher than that, so they are not suitable. Can anyone recommend a compact switch that would be suitable?

Or perhaps they're being over-cautious and the 6006 switch will be totally fine?


6006.png
 
If Blue Seas says it's a no-go, then I would not doubt them. I believe this is a recent change in their "specs". It sounds like they aren't comfortable with those higher voltages. This topic came up a few months ago.

If it's just an On/Off switch you want, perhaps one of the circuit breakers from Midnite Solar would work?
 
Found this usa company, Joe opps only go upto 32v
 

IMHO those look Jex things look like junk. Breakers is not the place to go cheap.

Stick with brand names like Midnite, Bussman, Schneider and a few others.

One example :

 
I agree not to go with the switch you have or any audio breaker. The switches I looked at were very big, more than the Blue Sea. They are also very expensive. I’m sure you’ve looked at switches like that.

I made a list of things not compatible for a 48 volt upgrade, and those Blue Sea switches were on it. I also had all my fuses were rated at 33 volts tops, to include my ANL Battery fuse 32 volts, my Maxi FUse 33 volts, my ATC fuses. What surprised me was my 600 amp powerbar was only rated to 48 VDC. That is an 8 post, 3/8” stud, 12” long busbar, and that would be no good for a 48 VDC upgrade.

Also, the Victron SCCs I chose would only do 12 volt or 24 volt batteries.

I decided not to replace all that stuff and am going to 24 volts instead of 48 volts.

48 volts is supposed to be the magic number where arcing occurs and I think that’s why the switches designed to handle the load for the high amperages a 48 volt system are much thicker. I was surprised to when I hooked my three 100 watt panels up in series and did an ohms check and found at three amps there was a bit of an arc.

I’ve got mixed feelings about using a breaker for the main cutoff and its mostly needs to be an easy to find switch for an “In Case of Emergency” that anyone can go and shutoff. Shut off the big red switch is easy, especially when there are a dozen beakers.
 
Also got that info from BlueSeas when I sent an email inquiring about using their 6006 switch.
Curious as to what others have found for an actual switch vs using a breaker as a switch.
 
The NEC code has different sections for voltages under 50V. Once you get over 50V, then more of the code applies and the code inspectors take more of a notice at your install.
 
The NEC code has different sections for voltages under 50V. Once you get over 50V, then more of the code applies and the code inspectors take more of a notice at your install.
Exactly, 50 volts is the level where the “Hazardous voltages” kicked in lower voltages are not considered “life threatening” Server farms must have the DC cabling in conduit with “touch safe” enclosures at the exposed battery terminals. Phone networks same, same, 48 volt DC Ni-Cad wet plates batteries charge at 72 volts DC, must be “touch safe”
 
Knowledgeable guy totally fine rating is in conflict with actual manufacturers data sheet FWIW.

May be fine, may not. If not, fire likely ensues.

Your choice.

Here is a 600Vdc 16 amp capable switch :


Or a 150Vdc 80 amp breaker :


Available up to 250 amps :


Again, it’s your choice and I will butt out. Just want others to know there are proper options available.
 
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So I chatted with a very knowledgable guy on the Tiger Exped stand at the Allrad Expo earlier this year, and he said two things:

1) The Blue-Sea switch will be totally fine at nominal 48V voltages, they're being overly conservative.
2) This Tiger Exped switch will also be totally fine at nominal 48V: https://www.tigerexped.de/battery-main-switch-motorhome-boat-afd-48v-275a
THe Blue Sea switch is UL rated. The switch you linked, I don’t see if it has any type of rating. I agree its at your choice.

I bought a switch just like the Tigre https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08RRTDSFB that is not UL rated. I have it on a project that will see 40 amps max, but typically had 15 amps at 24 volts. That smaller switch I brought is debated at different amps. 250 amps at 12 volts, 50% at 24 volts and 25% at 48 volts. Still no UL or other testing approval listed.
 
A 2 pole, fusible disconnect that is designed to be operated while UNDER LOAD.
Take a look at the red box switches and I think you will find they are to be operated while UNDER NO LOAD.

30 60 Amp DISCONNECT.JPG
Introduction to some products:
Short read info:
Long read, tons of info:
 
Would this thing be a solution for a 48V lithium battery bank?

Seems to be rated good enough. But, I have no experience or knowledge about it.
 
Would this thing be a solution for a 48V lithium battery bank?


The terminals are brass. At least in a bus bar we try to avoid brass, in favor of copper. But I don't know what materials other vendors are using in their switches. So brass may be the best you can get. I just don't know.
 
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