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issue - amphere time 24v/100ah. cant do over 40 amps

mitchofcanada

Dirtbikes, Beer, Wifi.
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Feb 14, 2021
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calgary
Cant seem to power big draws on this Amphere time 24v/100AH/100Amp?
24v pure sine - AIMS 1500/3000 Inverter - Does not trip itself. BMS TRIPS FIRST

BMS will trip, battery shuts off, then BMS reboots after 1-2min cycling all sorts of voltages. Then turns on like normal again.
Tried a 1500watt kettle and my 10amp Air Compressor.
Kettle will work for 3-5 seconds then BMS trips.
Compressor Will work for about 1-2 Min then BMS Trips.
Have tried direct to Inverter, same issue.
I have 900 W solar with output around 600-750 on a good day. Canadian Weather.

Current wiring is 4AWG. Will be going to 2/0 This week as I will have time to redo
Each way of Cable is about 2 Feet. No cable gets hot during multiple tests and 500-800 watt loads.

rear RV SETUP with 120v to cargo trailer., only inverter and 24/12v for Diesel Heater on System/Shunt.
Temp sensor Activated.

ampehre time 24v-100ah.jpg
 
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How much DC current does it show on Smart shunt before the BMS goes into shutdown when you using the 1500W kettle?
 
A few notes:

25.88V for a LiFePO₄ battery is roughly 34% SOC, not 74%. It seems your shunt has not been synchronized properly yet.

A 1500W 24V inverter can result in about 75A being pulled from the battery. 4AWG wire is fine for that amount of load. 2/0AWG is far bigger than needed. Nothing wrong with larger wire as long as it fits. But the 4AWG shouldn't be causing any issues.

First thing to do is verify your shunt battery settings are correct. Post a screenshot of the battery settings from VictronConnect. Make sure the "Charged Voltage" is 0.1V lower than the charge voltage setting from your charge source.

Second is to fully charge the battery to 100% SOC at 28.4V. This will allow the shunt to properly synchronize itself to 100% (assuming the shunt battery settings are correct).
 
A few notes:

25.88V for a LiFePO₄ battery is roughly 34% SOC, not 74%. It seems your shunt has not been synchronized properly yet.

A 1500W 24V inverter can result in about 75A being pulled from the battery. 4AWG wire is fine for that amount of load. 2/0AWG is far bigger than needed. Nothing wrong with larger wire as long as it fits. But the 4AWG shouldn't be causing any issues.

First thing to do is verify your shunt battery settings are correct. Post a screenshot of the battery settings from VictronConnect. Make sure the "Charged Voltage" is 0.1V lower than the charge voltage setting from your charge source.

Second is to fully charge the battery to 100% SOC at 28.4V. This will allow the shunt to properly synchronize itself to 100% (assuming the shunt battery settings are correct).
25.88 was under load, it settles in at 26.4 or 26.7 depending on the settings I will have to confirm.
was going off this chart, i went to 26.8 for Full Charge I Believe.

Will do a 28.4 Charge with no Load on it Tommorow. Normally it sits at 26.7 almost all day with solar keeping up with fridge/inverter demands.
Thanks will test/setup and go from there.
LiFe04-soc-voltage-chart.jpg
 
show us the connections.

Also where are you measuring the battery voltage? SCC readings or the smart shunt? Have you double checked with a meter?
 
Both Smart Shunt and a USB/Volt Meter Combo Connection give the same readings. Can double check with a volt meter but it will most likely give the same reading.
I do get voltage dip when a load is active say my fridge or higher load such as the aparment AC (which the unit runs fine).
Apartment AC runs about 600-900 load turn on and then settings around 300 watts.

The AIMS 1500/3000 does not trip on overdraw.
Grab pics in a bit we are in monsoon floodwarnings right now.
 
I'm using the 24v 100ah Amper Time battery from Amazon. It was working for 12 months. However, my 2424lv controller can only handle 22 amps of battery discharge before the controller shuts down for about 45 seconds then restarts in Utility mode to house load.

For the last 6 weeks or so, my controller would only stay on Utility and the solar would show only charging battery of 1 amp. I tried every option setting with no luck. the only thing left to suspect was the battery. I pulled out the paperwork for the Amper time battery and it said if things are screwing up, to remove the battery and put a slow charge on it until fully charge. That should reset the batter BMS.

Did that and reconnect the battery and all is working like it should.
 
I'm using the 24v 100ah Amper Time battery from Amazon. It was working for 12 months. However, my 2424lv controller can only handle 22 amps of battery discharge before the controller shuts down for about 45 seconds then restarts in Utility mode to house load.

For the last 6 weeks or so, my controller would only stay on Utility and the solar would show only charging battery of 1 amp. I tried every option setting with no luck. the only thing left to suspect was the battery. I pulled out the paperwork for the Amper time battery and it said if things are screwing up, to remove the battery and put a slow charge on it until fully charge. That should reset the batter BMS.

Did that and reconnect the battery and all is working like it should.
what did you recharge the battery with? 28v @ 2amps or something? i can change with my 1 solar panel would max 300 watts or about 10 amps.

I just did a video of my process testing uploading now.
40amp draw with solar helping it works. 60amp it pops BMS and resets.
What is your MMPT settings? max charge settings etc.
I went off their manual.
27.6 FLOAT - Absorb - 28.4 1hr absorb time (was at 2hr).
When i have loads my battery voltage dips MASSIVLEY. to below 26v.
amphere time charging peramters.jpg
 
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I used a regular battery slow charger from amazon. it automatically detects what voltage your battery is, 12v or 24 v. you have 4 other options, but it is clear which one to choose. - car, motorcycle, age for example.

system settings:
I'm using the recommended float and charging setting that is recommended in the battery info.

Other options, switch back to utility when battery voltage is 24.5 volts and low DC cutoff voltage of 24v. If I use a battery voltage of lower than 24.5v, I will be pulling battery discharge amps of 22 amps. My 2424lv cannot handle 22 amps of discharge current and will shut off for 45 seconds then turns back on and the utility will now be suppling power to the house load.

With respect to charging current, I have it set to only 10 amps. The reason is that where I live, our 6 homes on the same main 100-amp braker. If I charge at 20 amps, I run the risk of blowing that main braker and pissing off neighbors. - I lives in a mobile park and the breaker for my home is only 50 amps. Plus all 6 homes have central air and draw 15 amps when running. Then their is my electric car. when I charge it, it draws 8 amps for 15 hours to recharge.

So as you see, I have to manage my power usage carefully.
 
Ok.
I am using my solar to charge it is a 150/35 victron with 900 watts total power (usually 300-500watts)
It just finished its cycle of charging and was at 28.4 this morning at end of charge cycle so i disconnected all draw/charging and will let it sit for a bit to get sitting/resting voltage as recommended by ampere time to further troubleshoot.

27.6 Float, 28.4 Absorb for 2 Hr.
Under Load dips to 25.5V or Lower until it shuts off. (1500watt@57ish amps)
 
I'm using the 24v 100ah Amper Time battery from Amazon. It was working for 12 months. However, my 2424lv controller can only handle 22 amps of battery discharge before the controller shuts down for about 45 seconds then restarts in Utility mode to house load.

For the last 6 weeks or so, my controller would only stay on Utility and the solar would show only charging battery of 1 amp. I tried every option setting with no luck. the only thing left to suspect was the battery. I pulled out the paperwork for the Amper time battery and it said if things are screwing up, to remove the battery and put a slow charge on it until fully charge. That should reset the batter BMS.

Did that and reconnect the battery and all is working like it should.
The cells must get out of balance under higher charging/discharge rates. I don't believe it is a reset of the BMS but rather the slow charge will balance the cells due to the BMS can more easily handle the charge current per cell and balance it accordingly.
 
Ill have to get a benchtop power supply with a solid 28.4 volts and let it sit on the battery for a day or 2.
 
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