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It is easy and inexpensive to make home wiring into extension cords! Is this code compliant?

Max Glover

New Member
Joined
Oct 14, 2019
Messages
6
Location
Missouri, USA
I have been using what is shown in the pictures for 10 years. After spending time online watching people install expensive critical load panels and dangerous back-feed systems I wonder why more people don't take this approach?
Electric panel wires cropped.jpg

Electric panel.jpg
For those interested in more details, read on. For others, I am basically just asking if it is code compliant to install a female plug and male plug in home wiring between the panel and the loads served by the wire (female plug goes to panel) as shown in the first picture. The reason to do this would be to allow the circuit (male plug) to plug directly into a generator or all-in-one solar system, bypassing the panel. The panel picture is just so you know what my US 200A 120V split phase panel looks like in case that helps.

More details...

If a generator (whether it be a gas powered generator or all-in-one solar/battery system) has a 15A or 20A circuit breaker built-in it seems to me this would be safe, but I am not a trained electrician. Installing plugs would not be as easy for panels in finished areas where wires are behind a wall, or for conduit protected wires, but for panels in unfinished areas like the one pictured (in an unfinished basement) this is a really inexpensive and easy way to get backup or alternative power to appliance circuits.

Pros
Easy to install the plugs in wires if they are not in walls or conduit.
I think it should be fire safe if the off grid supply (generator or solar system) has a breaker the same size or smaller than panel breaker serving that wire.
I think it should be electrician safe if the wires are labeled (on panel side and appliance side of wire).
I think it should be lineman safe because power from the generator completely bypasses the panel so it can not back-feed the grid(mains).
My favorite pro is that this allows other devices to be installed in the utility area where the panel is located instead of taking up space on outlets (things like Killawatt meter, iot smart switches, and RFprotect devices to protect refrigerator from brown outs).
Makes it easier to use all-in-one systems like the Yeti, Bluetti, and others in homes, especially if solar panels are used and the solar wires enter the home in the same area as the electric panel.
Makes it easier and cheaper to connect critical loads to a generator with breaker protected outlets during a power outage.
The male and female plugs are easy to find at most hardware stores, inexpensive, and there are several instruction videos online to show beginners how to safely select and install them.

Cons
May not be easy if wires are behind a finished wall or in solid conduit. If conduit is required, flex might be an option but would make install more difficult for beginners.
The installer must make sure the off grid energy source has a breaker appropriate for the wire.
Others? Is this not code compliant in most or all situations? Could it cause a failed home inspection?

The National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) has a web page that allows submitting questions about US national electric code compliance. This would probably be the most definitive way of answering this question, but only NFPA members or public officials can ask questions.


I may eventually look into joining the NFPA just to ask about this, but for now thought I would run it past the DIY Solar Forum to see what people think. Maybe someone on the forum is an NFPA member?

In the US there is a youth education program called 4-H that is associated with University Extension. 4-H offers youth electrical safety classes where electricians teach kids electrical safety with hands-on activities. One of the hands-on activities is to help the kids make extension cords using a wire, male and female plug ends, wire strippers, and a Phillips screwdriver. They teach the kids that small lamp cords should not be used for space heaters. They also teach them how to pay attention to cord size and device power use labels so they don't plug too many high draw appliances into one power strip. These classes are not available to all kids, and some kids forget what they learn (according to follow up surveys). I mention this to make the point that safely plugging in cords and understanding how to determine appliance usage is really the entry point of safely using electricity. If batteries continue to fall in price and all-in-one systems with breakers that match up with common home circuit sizes become more common this approach of using home wires as extension cords might help a lot of people safely and cheaply install solar even if they know only the basics of electrical safety and have a limited budget. I think it could possibly lead to quicker adoption of solar by making it more “plug and play”, but if it is not code compliant that will hold it back even if it can be done safely.
 
I don't live in the USA and know little about the regulations over there but I'd be amazed if that complied with any standard and was legal. I imagine those wires are twin and earth. The risk of the earth not being stable through those plugs is alarming to say the least.
 
Unfortunately, I don't believe that any wire to wire connection outside of a box is to code, especially one that involves ohmic connections. I think I have the 2015 code book on a flash drive so let me glance at that to verify.
 
I believe code says that all splices must be done inside a box. Those connectors would constitute a splice.

I haven't found the code, but so far all my searches say no, that is not allowed.
 
Well, turns out I lost that file, but Rider seems to have found at least one code which prohibits it, and there's likely others. When I was rewiring my grandfathers house to remove all the extension cords he was using to run power to house outlets, I made a straight line solder connection (between actual house wire) with heat shrink on every wire, which were sealed with liquid electrical tape then individually wrapped with solid tape before the whole thing was encapsulated with heat shrink and solid tape. Upon further research I found even this to be out of code, in spite of the fact that a solder joint composing more than 10 times the cross section of the copper will have a lower resistance than the rest of the wire.
 
My big issue with Max's post are the lines that start with "I think..." I like to suggest to Max that he call a licensed electrician and have the work reviewed, and change those "I think" to "I know".
 
So, I've been thinking about this thread. New user, one post, not about solar or solar systems in any way, no response since the original post. What we call on another forum, a one hit wonder. Post, drop a bombshell and run.

I think we've been trolled.
 
Thanks for replies everyone. I am not meaning to be a troll, I am new, and learning, and find the electric code complicated and wanting to see if what I did was code compliant or not. I don't have solar yet, but thought the plugs would make it easier to use an all-in-one system, if code compliant. Seems it definitely is not code compliant, so something others should avoid doing. This is something I would have a hard time explaining to an electrician without showing a picture, and it was easy to post a picture here. Thanks to all for your quick responses. I did this in response to a long power outage so I was not tripping over extension cords from the generator. Later found it to be useful in other ways so wanted to check code compliance before going further down the wrong path. Based on comments it seems to get this back up to code the fix would be to have an electrician put boxes where the plugs are.
 
I have been using what is shown in the pictures for 10 years. After spending time online watching people install expensive critical load panels and dangerous back-feed systems I wonder why more people don't take this approach?
View attachment 1120

View attachment 1121
For those interested in more details, read on. For others, I am basically just asking if it is code compliant to install a female plug and male plug in home wiring between the panel and the loads served by the wire (female plug goes to panel) as shown in the first picture. The reason to do this would be to allow the circuit (male plug) to plug directly into a generator or all-in-one solar system, bypassing the panel. The panel picture is just so you know what my US 200A 120V split phase panel looks like in case that helps.

More details...

If a generator (whether it be a gas powered generator or all-in-one solar/battery system) has a 15A or 20A circuit breaker built-in it seems to me this would be safe, but I am not a trained electrician. Installing plugs would not be as easy for panels in finished areas where wires are behind a wall, or for conduit protected wires, but for panels in unfinished areas like the one pictured (in an unfinished basement) this is a really inexpensive and easy way to get backup or alternative power to appliance circuits.

Pros
Easy to install the plugs in wires if they are not in walls or conduit.
I think it should be fire safe if the off grid supply (generator or solar system) has a breaker the same size or smaller than panel breaker serving that wire.
I think it should be electrician safe if the wires are labeled (on panel side and appliance side of wire).
I think it should be lineman safe because power from the generator completely bypasses the panel so it can not back-feed the grid(mains).
My favorite pro is that this allows other devices to be installed in the utility area where the panel is located instead of taking up space on outlets (things like Killawatt meter, iot smart switches, and RFprotect devices to protect refrigerator from brown outs).
Makes it easier to use all-in-one systems like the Yeti, Bluetti, and others in homes, especially if solar panels are used and the solar wires enter the home in the same area as the electric panel.
Makes it easier and cheaper to connect critical loads to a generator with breaker protected outlets during a power outage.
The male and female plugs are easy to find at most hardware stores, inexpensive, and there are several instruction videos online to show beginners how to safely select and install them.

Cons
May not be easy if wires are behind a finished wall or in solid conduit. If conduit is required, flex might be an option but would make install more difficult for beginners.
The installer must make sure the off grid energy source has a breaker appropriate for the wire.
Others? Is this not code compliant in most or all situations? Could it cause a failed home inspection?

The National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) has a web page that allows submitting questions about US national electric code compliance. This would probably be the most definitive way of answering this question, but only NFPA members or public officials can ask questions.


I may eventually look into joining the NFPA just to ask about this, but for now thought I would run it past the DIY Solar Forum to see what people think. Maybe someone on the forum is an NFPA member?

In the US there is a youth education program called 4-H that is associated with University Extension. 4-H offers youth electrical safety classes where electricians teach kids electrical safety with hands-on activities. One of the hands-on activities is to help the kids make extension cords using a wire, male and female plug ends, wire strippers, and a Phillips screwdriver. They teach the kids that small lamp cords should not be used for space heaters. They also teach them how to pay attention to cord size and device power use labels so they don't plug too many high draw appliances into one power strip. These classes are not available to all kids, and some kids forget what they learn (according to follow up surveys). I mention this to make the point that safely plugging in cords and understanding how to determine appliance usage is really the entry point of safely using electricity. If batteries continue to fall in price and all-in-one systems with breakers that match up with common home circuit sizes become more common this approach of using home wires as extension cords might help a lot of people safely and cheaply install solar even if they know only the basics of electrical safety and have a limited budget. I think it could possibly lead to quicker adoption of solar by making it more “plug and play”, but if it is not code compliant that will hold it back even if it can be done safely.
No.
Not allowed to code.
The reason is fire protection.
There is a 90 minute connection limit on any extension cord use in the code.
No extension cord may pass through a partition or wall...
 
this seems simple and safe at first glance, but you need to realize why it isn’t.

every connection via friction is a load. The cord connector points are designed for limited use. The heat and arcs build up over time and waste energy, and create heat. Load them with multiple appliances and the heat will climb quickly.

get an infrared camera and look at the cords and sockets. Over time the heat will cause the connections to fail.
I hope you have AFCI breakers connected to all those cord ends... doubtful, since they would trip constantly.

I have been using what is shown in the pictures for 10 years. After spending time online watching people install expensive critical load panels and dangerous back-feed systems I wonder why more people don't take this approach?
View attachment 1120

View attachment 1121
For those interested in more details, read on. For others, I am basically just asking if it is code compliant to install a female plug and male plug in home wiring between the panel and the loads served by the wire (female plug goes to panel) as shown in the first picture. The reason to do this would be to allow the circuit (male plug) to plug directly into a generator or all-in-one solar system, bypassing the panel. The panel picture is just so you know what my US 200A 120V split phase panel looks like in case that helps.

More details...

If a generator (whether it be a gas powered generator or all-in-one solar/battery system) has a 15A or 20A circuit breaker built-in it seems to me this would be safe, but I am not a trained electrician. Installing plugs would not be as easy for panels in finished areas where wires are behind a wall, or for conduit protected wires, but for panels in unfinished areas like the one pictured (in an unfinished basement) this is a really inexpensive and easy way to get backup or alternative power to appliance circuits.

Pros
Easy to install the plugs in wires if they are not in walls or conduit.
I think it should be fire safe if the off grid supply (generator or solar system) has a breaker the same size or smaller than panel breaker serving that wire.
I think it should be electrician safe if the wires are labeled (on panel side and appliance side of wire).
I think it should be lineman safe because power from the generator completely bypasses the panel so it can not back-feed the grid(mains).
My favorite pro is that this allows other devices to be installed in the utility area where the panel is located instead of taking up space on outlets (things like Killawatt meter, iot smart switches, and RFprotect devices to protect refrigerator from brown outs).
Makes it easier to use all-in-one systems like the Yeti, Bluetti, and others in homes, especially if solar panels are used and the solar wires enter the home in the same area as the electric panel.
Makes it easier and cheaper to connect critical loads to a generator with breaker protected outlets during a power outage.
The male and female plugs are easy to find at most hardware stores, inexpensive, and there are several instruction videos online to show beginners how to safely select and install them.

Cons
May not be easy if wires are behind a finished wall or in solid conduit. If conduit is required, flex might be an option but would make install more difficult for beginners.
The installer must make sure the off grid energy source has a breaker appropriate for the wire.
Others? Is this not code compliant in most or all situations? Could it cause a failed home inspection?

The National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) has a web page that allows submitting questions about US national electric code compliance. This would probably be the most definitive way of answering this question, but only NFPA members or public officials can ask questions.


I may eventually look into joining the NFPA just to ask about this, but for now thought I would run it past the DIY Solar Forum to see what people think. Maybe someone on the forum is an NFPA member?

In the US there is a youth education program called 4-H that is associated with University Extension. 4-H offers youth electrical safety classes where electricians teach kids electrical safety with hands-on activities. One of the hands-on activities is to help the kids make extension cords using a wire, male and female plug ends, wire strippers, and a Phillips screwdriver. They teach the kids that small lamp cords should not be used for space heaters. They also teach them how to pay attention to cord size and device power use labels so they don't plug too many high draw appliances into one power strip. These classes are not available to all kids, and some kids forget what they learn (according to follow up surveys). I mention this to make the point that safely plugging in cords and understanding how to determine appliance usage is really the entry point of safely using electricity. If batteries continue to fall in price and all-in-one systems with breakers that match up with common home circuit sizes become more common this approach of using home wires as extension cords might help a lot of people safely and cheaply install solar even if they know only the basics of electrical safety and have a limited budget. I think it could possibly lead to quicker adoption of solar by making it more “plug and play”, but if it is not code compliant that will hold it back even if it can be done safely.
 
I would not for the various reasons listed. Don't trust standard household connections for long term, possible heavy load use. OTOH...I had my start in a 4-H Electrical Program in high school... I still remember wiring my first lamp and was afraid to plug it in. Fast forward 5 years and I was working in a Nuclear Power Plant with 4160 vac 3 phase and 480 vac all over the place... All thanks to a gentlemen that took time with some high school boys to learn about electricity and magnetism.
 
Thanks again everyone.

I can imagine that electricians cringe when they see pictures posted by newcomers that might show up in the search results of someone desperate for a cheap solution, especially if they only read the first post. If you think the picture I posted is so dangerous it should be removed from the forum, click the report button and do what you must do. I posted this with the full intent of having my lack of code knowledge dissected for as long as possible, and plan to enjoy it to the fullest. I think people will most likely read beyond the first post if they land here on a search. I am here to represent (self elected) code illiterate individuals considering DIY solar power. Some of our type tend to want to avoid expensive installs and do things in small chunks as our budgets allow, one appliance or lightly loaded circuit at a time. UL stamps 15A on the plugs, which I interpreted as them being able to safely carry 15A.


When I check my plugs with an IR thermometer they are ambient temperature. None of them carry a steady appliance/device load of more than 200 watts in normal operation. The fridge startup surge is around 2000 watts (compressor sticker 17.8 LRA), it runs at about 180 watts, ice dispenser uses about 400 when crushing/dispensing, and it will hit 600 watts for short periods of time when defrost is happening (according to Efergy watt meter). The other highest use plugged circuit supplies LED lights and outlets in a garage, which has a 1/2 hp door opener and a 1 hp 3 gallon air compressor that I don't plug in until I use and fills in about 3 minutes. I don't have large woodworking or metalworking tools, most of the power tools I have are cordless. The low wattage on the plugs most of the time must explain why they are not above room temperature. You all helped me to learn code requires circuits be able to safely supply full power all time, and the UL stamp is not the appropriate source to determine the safe full power. Thanks
 
Thanks again everyone.

I can imagine that electricians cringe when they see pictures posted by newcomers that might show up in the search results of someone desperate for a cheap solution, especially if they only read the first post. If you think the picture I posted is so dangerous it should be removed from the forum, click the report button and do what you must do. I posted this with the full intent of having my lack of code knowledge dissected for as long as possible, and plan to enjoy it to the fullest. I think people will most likely read beyond the first post if they land here on a search. I am here to represent (self elected) code illiterate individuals considering DIY solar power. Some of our type tend to want to avoid expensive installs and do things in small chunks as our budgets allow, one appliance or lightly loaded circuit at a time. UL stamps 15A on the plugs, which I interpreted as them being able to safely carry 15A.


When I check my plugs with an IR thermometer they are ambient temperature. None of them carry a steady appliance/device load of more than 200 watts in normal operation. The fridge startup surge is around 2000 watts (compressor sticker 17.8 LRA), it runs at about 180 watts, ice dispenser uses about 400 when crushing/dispensing, and it will hit 600 watts for short periods of time when defrost is happening (according to Efergy watt meter). The other highest use plugged circuit supplies LED lights and outlets in a garage, which has a 1/2 hp door opener and a 1 hp 3 gallon air compressor that I don't plug in until I use and fills in about 3 minutes. I don't have large woodworking or metalworking tools, most of the power tools I have are cordless. The low wattage on the plugs most of the time must explain why they are not above room temperature. You all helped me to learn code requires circuits be able to safely supply full power all time, and the UL stamp is not the appropriate source to determine the safe full power. Thanks
I wasn’t saying it wouldn’t work.
I was saying it isn’t safe long term, and would be against code.
All cord connections are UL listed for 15 amps in the cord category. Meaning they are rated for 90 minutes only.
Many cord end parts like that are for repairing a device cord, but the rating they get is biased on the 90 minute max ruling.

Certainly a 200 watt load isn’t going to stress it. Heck, a 1500 watt load likely wouldn’t stress it. But over time, a cord connection will fail. Hard wired to the panel to code will function long term.

If you are going to keep it like this, I recommend replacing the breakers feeding those circuits with an AFCI rated breaker. Just to keep you a bit safer.
 
Not necessary. For those that care to read further into the thread, they'll get the right message.
Especially since the thread title question is asking if it is code, or a safe option.

I have no intention to remove any pictures or posts. Only Will removes posts he deems outside the forum boundaries.
 
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