It is easy and inexpensive to make home wiring into extension cords! Is this code compliant?

[offgriddle]

Thanks again everyone.

I can imagine that electricians cringe when they see pictures posted by newcomers that might show up in the search results of someone desperate for a cheap solution, especially if they only read the first post. If you think the picture I posted is so dangerous it should be removed from the forum, click the report button and do what you must do. I posted this with the full intent of having my lack of code knowledge dissected for as long as possible, and plan to enjoy it to the fullest. I think people will most likely read beyond the first post if they land here on a search. I am here to represent (self elected) code illiterate individuals considering DIY solar power. Some of our type tend to want to avoid expensive installs and do things in small chunks as our budgets allow, one appliance or lightly loaded circuit at a time. UL stamps 15A on the plugs, which I interpreted as them being able to safely carry 15A.

https://www.menards.com/main/electrical/light-switches-dimmers-outlets/plugs/eaton-vinyl-plug-15a-125v/4867-box/p-1444427454509-c-9525.htm?tid=3790733879851662209&ipos=17

When I check my plugs with an IR thermometer they are ambient temperature. None of them carry a steady appliance/device load of more than 200 watts in normal operation. The fridge startup surge is around 2000 watts (compressor sticker 17.8 LRA), it runs at about 180 watts, ice dispenser uses about 400 when crushing/dispensing, and it will hit 600 watts for short periods of time when defrost is happening (according to Efergy watt meter). The other highest use plugged circuit supplies LED lights and outlets in a garage, which has a 1/2 hp door opener and a 1 hp 3 gallon air compressor that I don't plug in until I use and fills in about 3 minutes. I don't have large woodworking or metalworking tools, most of the power tools I have are cordless. The low wattage on the plugs most of the time must explain why they are not above room temperature. You all helped me to learn code requires circuits be able to safely supply full power all time, and the UL stamp is not the appropriate source to determine the safe full power. Thanks

This was my reaction to your photo and description.

 

[Max Glover]

This forum, specifically the people who took the time to comment on my post, have been very helpful in getting me started understanding electrical safety, UL, and electric code and begin to understand how to use them to stay safe.

After monitoring my electric usage for a while using an Efergy whole house watt meter and my Electric Cooperative's use web page I found a few "low wattage always on" devices comprise a big chunk of my usage. These are also the devices I most want to keep on during a power outage. The least expensive solar systems to install are the low wattage ones Will demonstrates. He demonstrates them in a scenario where the installation is not permanently built into a building and the system is designed to be safe for a time that is appropriate for the use case. I have learned that plugs and through the wall extension cords are not code compliant when installed in a permanent built-in way in an occupied building. So the challenge I have created for myself is to keep searching for a way to connect an inexpensive system Will demonstrates to the "low wattage always on" devices in different rooms without violating code for extension cords. In my attempt to lower my solar system cost by selecting a few "low wattage always on" devices throughout my house, I run into challenges planning how to get the power distributed in a safe and code compliant way.

I'll keep looking around the forum for others with similar situations as this may be a topic change.

 

[offgriddle]

This forum, specifically the people who took the time to comment on my post, have been very helpful in getting me started understanding electrical safety, UL, and electric code and begin to understand how to use them to stay safe.

After monitoring my electric usage for a while using an Efergy whole house watt meter and my Electric Cooperative's use web page I found a few "low wattage always on" devices comprise a big chunk of my usage. These are also the devices I most want to keep on during a power outage. The least expensive solar systems to install are the low wattage ones Will demonstrates. He demonstrates them in a scenario where the installation is not permanently built into a building and the system is designed to be safe for a time that is appropriate for the use case. I have learned that plugs and through the wall extension cords are not code compliant when installed in a permanent built-in way in an occupied building. So the challenge I have created for myself is to keep searching for a way to connect an inexpensive system Will demonstrates to the "low wattage always on" devices in different rooms without violating code for extension cords. In my attempt to lower my solar system cost by selecting a few "low wattage always on" devices throughout my house, I run into challenges planning how to get the power distributed in a safe and code compliant way.

I'll keep looking around the forum for others with similar situations as this may be a topic change.

Ssshh, we'll keep the topic change on the Q.T.!

 

[jackoliva]

No.
Not allowed to code.
The reason is fire protection.
There is a 90 minute connection limit on any extension cord use in the code.
No extension cord may pass through a partition or wall...

I have never heard of a time limit on the use of a flexible cord or cable. Please reference the NEC article that addresses such a condition so that I may read up on that. Thanks.

 

[Supervstech]

I have never heard of a time limit on the use of a flexible cord or cable. Please reference the NEC article that addresses such a condition so that I may read up on that. Thanks.

It isn’t in the NEC it is in the NFPA 70 fire code, part of the electrician code requirements... and it is 90 days, not minutes... oops...

 

[offgriddle]

It isn’t in the NEC it is in the NFPA 70 fire code, part of the electrician code requirements... and it is 90 days, not minutes... oops...

Interesting, I wonder if the 90 day extension cord code applies when a portable generator is the source of AC power? Asking for a friend ... ?

 

[bulrush]

Fun fact: Our fire marshall (Michigan) for my employer says no heaters at all can be plugged into an extension cord, ever, even if the cord is rated for the amps. Thus we have to plug them directly into the wall or cubicle outlets.

 

[Supervstech]

Fun fact: Our fire marshall (Michigan) for my employer says no heaters at all can be plugged into an extension cord, ever, even if the cord is rated for the amps. Thus we have to plug them directly into the wall or cubicle outlets.

this is because the continuous rating is for the specific length of the appliance cord. 6’ is the max length for most appliance cords.

 

[Rider]

Fun fact: Our fire marshall (Michigan) for my employer says no heaters at all can be plugged into an extension cord, ever, even if the cord is rated for the amps. Thus we have to plug them directly into the wall or cubicle outlets.

That's pretty standard. My employer wouldn't allow non-UL heaters, heaters on extensions, had to have surge supression of a minimum rating, certain multi-outlet extensions were not allowed (had to have an indicator light to show if it was compromised), and no extensions plugged into extensions.

 

[Mars]

It isn’t in the NEC it is in the NFPA 70 fire code, part of the electrician code requirements... and it is 90 days, not minutes... oops...

The NEC *IS* NFPA 70. The code page you attached is from the International Fire Code.

 

[Supervstech]

Thank you for the clarification

 

[PatBlack]

...So the challenge I have created for myself is to keep searching for a way to connect an inexpensive system Will demonstrates to the "low wattage always on" devices in different rooms without violating code for extension cords. In my attempt to lower my solar system cost by selecting a few "low wattage always on" devices throughout my house, I run into challenges planning how to get the power distributed in a safe and code compliant way.

I know nothing about code, but I think @offgriddle already gave the solution, which is to use a transfer switch. He showed a 10-circuit manual transfer switch. I have a 6-circuit transfer switch that works fine to swap from grid to an alternative power source while being safe and in-code. I don't know what you consider to be inexpensive, but the one I listed is under $300 and you theoretically could have it put power into 6 different rooms if the existing wiring works in your favor for that. Or, if it's easy to run a new circuit to any of these rooms, then maybe a new dedicated circuit and receptacle for the "low wattage always on" devices for that room, run through the transfer switch.

 

[offgriddle]

I know nothing about code, but I think @offgriddle already gave the solution, which is to use a transfer switch. He showed a 10-circuit manual transfer switch. I have a 6-circuit transfer switch that works fine to swap from grid to an alternative power source while being safe and in-code. I don't know what you consider to be inexpensive, but the one I listed is under $300 and you theoretically could have it put power into 6 different rooms if the existing wiring works in your favor for that. Or, if it's easy to run a new circuit to any of these rooms, then maybe a new dedicated circuit and receptacle for the "low wattage always on" devices for that room, run through the transfer switch.

Excellent idea for using the transfer switch Pat, thank you. I was also thinking that not only is the grid nowhere near me making it impossible for a connection without building a transmission line, but Jenny, (thats what I call my generator), has absolutely no provisions what so ever for hardwired connections, thusly, making an extension cord the one and only method hooking up with her, I mean, connecting to her. Furthermore, Jenny is grounded via an 8' long, copper clad steel rod driven into the earth next to her, plus, all of Jenny's high voltage outputs are protected by her built-in circuit breakers at the source of Jenneration.

 

[Max Glover]

I know nothing about code, but I think @offgriddle already gave the solution, which is to use a transfer switch. He showed a 10-circuit manual transfer switch. I have a 6-circuit transfer switch that works fine to swap from grid to an alternative power source while being safe and in-code. I don't know what you consider to be inexpensive, but the one I listed is under $300 and you theoretically could have it put power into 6 different rooms if the existing wiring works in your favor for that. Or, if it's easy to run a new circuit to any of these rooms, then maybe a new dedicated circuit and receptacle for the "low wattage always on" devices for that room, run through the transfer switch.

Several of the systems Will demonstrates have automatic transfer switches, so they can be used to keep the connected appliances on solar/battery as much as possible, switching to the grid as backup automatically when batteries get low. There are others that have installed these types of systems that I am checking out. I agree @offgriddle provided a solution, in my case hire an electrician who can install to code. I'm searching for the parts that would most likely be needed to work with an automatic transfer switch so I have an estimate of parts cost before getting install prices.

 

[azdave85650]

 

[Sky-HHI]

As offgriddle suggests, the Reliance manual transfer switch is what I use. It will disconnect each circuit from the grid and then allows me to use a gas generator power or solar generated power from my inverter to power a circuit. I use the 6 circuit unit and this allows me to use as much power as I have in my Lifepo batt. to run different rooms in my house. I installed the reliance manual transfer switch for the Hurricanes we seem to get every year. But it works well for solar generated power also.

 

[Pir8Radio]

As others said I personally wouldn't do this, but you can make it code compliant by changing the cables that run into the panel to SJ type cable and removing the male plugs that run to your loads, and run them into single gang outlet boxes and use a male plug face like the picture below. The SJ cord would need the proper strain relief connector on the breaker panel and a pendant rated outlet attachment. I would actually use twist-locks (L5-15) vs standard 5-15's, all of this is just a suggestion since I doubt you are going to tear what you have done out since you cut the romex already, and this way if you have a fire for an unrelated issue and they find what you have installed today there is a high chance your insurance won’t pay the claim.

 

[Ron]

Some good info.

 

[RandyP]

I have been using what is shown in the pictures for 10 years. After spending time online watching people install expensive critical load panels and dangerous back-feed systems I wonder why more people don't take this approach?
View attachment 1120

View attachment 1121
For those interested in more details, read on. For others, I am basically just asking if it is code compliant to install a female plug and male plug in home wiring between the panel and the loads served by the wire (female plug goes to panel) as shown in the first picture. The reason to do this would be to allow the circuit (male plug) to plug directly into a generator or all-in-one solar system, bypassing the panel. The panel picture is just so you know what my US 200A 120V split phase panel looks like in case that helps.

More details...

If a generator (whether it be a gas powered generator or all-in-one solar/battery system) has a 15A or 20A circuit breaker built-in it seems to me this would be safe, but I am not a trained electrician. Installing plugs would not be as easy for panels in finished areas where wires are behind a wall, or for conduit protected wires, but for panels in unfinished areas like the one pictured (in an unfinished basement) this is a really inexpensive and easy way to get backup or alternative power to appliance circuits.

Pros
Easy to install the plugs in wires if they are not in walls or conduit.
I think it should be fire safe if the off grid supply (generator or solar system) has a breaker the same size or smaller than panel breaker serving that wire.
I think it should be electrician safe if the wires are labeled (on panel side and appliance side of wire).
I think it should be lineman safe because power from the generator completely bypasses the panel so it can not back-feed the grid(mains).
My favorite pro is that this allows other devices to be installed in the utility area where the panel is located instead of taking up space on outlets (things like Killawatt meter, iot smart switches, and RFprotect devices to protect refrigerator from brown outs).
Makes it easier to use all-in-one systems like the Yeti, Bluetti, and others in homes, especially if solar panels are used and the solar wires enter the home in the same area as the electric panel.
Makes it easier and cheaper to connect critical loads to a generator with breaker protected outlets during a power outage.
The male and female plugs are easy to find at most hardware stores, inexpensive, and there are several instruction videos online to show beginners how to safely select and install them.

Cons
May not be easy if wires are behind a finished wall or in solid conduit. If conduit is required, flex might be an option but would make install more difficult for beginners.
The installer must make sure the off grid energy source has a breaker appropriate for the wire.
Others? Is this not code compliant in most or all situations? Could it cause a failed home inspection?

The National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) has a web page that allows submitting questions about US national electric code compliance. This would probably be the most definitive way of answering this question, but only NFPA members or public officials can ask questions.

NFPA 70®: National Electrical Code®

Adopted in all 50 states, the NEC is the benchmark for safe electrical design, installation, and inspection to protect people and property from electrical hazards.

www.nfpa.org

I may eventually look into joining the NFPA just to ask about this, but for now thought I would run it past the DIY Solar Forum to see what people think. Maybe someone on the forum is an NFPA member?

In the US there is a youth education program called 4-H that is associated with University Extension. 4-H offers youth electrical safety classes where electricians teach kids electrical safety with hands-on activities. One of the hands-on activities is to help the kids make extension cords using a wire, male and female plug ends, wire strippers, and a Phillips screwdriver. They teach the kids that small lamp cords should not be used for space heaters. They also teach them how to pay attention to cord size and device power use labels so they don't plug too many high draw appliances into one power strip. These classes are not available to all kids, and some kids forget what they learn (according to follow up surveys). I mention this to make the point that safely plugging in cords and understanding how to determine appliance usage is really the entry point of safely using electricity. If batteries continue to fall in price and all-in-one systems with breakers that match up with common home circuit sizes become more common this approach of using home wires as extension cords might help a lot of people safely and cheaply install solar even if they know only the basics of electrical safety and have a limited budget. I think it could possibly lead to quicker adoption of solar by making it more “plug and play”, but if it is not code compliant that will hold it back even if it can be done safely.

No, it is not code compliant.

 

[Ron]

I was reading this and thinking about my old extension cord with a timer going through a wall and to a 1000 watt electric heater I have in my van to keep windows snow and ice-free during the winter. I noticed the cord is finally falling apart after so many years.