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It was -10F last night and my mini-split...

Madcodger

Solar Wizard
Joined
Aug 17, 2022
Messages
1,214
... Worked perfectly. We had a high of 19F yesterday and a low of -10F (technically, -9.6F) overnight.

It's nice and toasty inside, and yes, we left all the settings where we always leave them, meaning that we did a slight setback in the setpoint temp at 9 PM (temp goes down to 64-65 with a setpoint of 62) because we like it cooler for sleeping, and then an increase in setpoint temp at 6 AM (setpoint of 65 keeps indoors at about 68). In fact, the setpoints being off by about 3F is the only annoying thing about these Mitsubishis (this one is a 12K).

The mini-split did use electricity from midnight to 6AM, and yes, it used more to get the temperature back up. How much more? See the graph below. That spike will come back down in the next hour or so, and given that it's spiking to only 367 WH, that's a very manageable spike (update: down to just 234 watts at 7:30 per the live data from the Emporia Vue). As shown, the peak 15-minute demand in the past month has been only 538 watts, and we've used just over 3 KWH for the past 24 hours. Our peak 24-hour use in the past month has been 4.127 KWH (that's a period with three decimal places). I think my wife had the deck door open as she fiddled with some holiday lights. If we were on grid, that's about 95 cents US for 24 hours, to heat 910 SF of living space (plus two long knee wall areas of storage), in Maine, in late Dec and January.

My point here isn't to brag, although I am proud of the building's performance given that I designed it. Rather, my point is that in a building designed for energy conservation, an air-air heat pump designed for the temperature/climate where it is installed can perform very well in a very cold climate. And with a bit more use of electricity, they can heat a building with somewhat less insulation and air sealing. Those who say heat pumps can't perform well in a cold climate are simply using a heat pump not designed for the cold. When I see words like "heat strip" I think, "Not a cold climate unit." Some will likely chime in with arguments. Have at it. This is real-world data, written in a warm and toasty room at below 0F outside temps, in a totally off grid building. Just insulate and air seal, and buy the right unit for your local climate. They're not cheap, but this is how they perform.
 

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Great job! It helps to hear actual stories on how it works out.

Heat pumps are something I am beginning to explore as a possible replacement for my wood heating. I have used some solar for electrical resistance heater use but that is only during when the sun is shining bright. My problem is my already built place does not lend itself to installation of mini-splits and has no space for ducting. I have seen some through wall units designed to fit under windows that looks interesting. Certainly helps to build allowing for all the Off grid things to start with like you have done versus retrofitting.
 
Would be best if you built the house spec'd for a heat pump. We have a 48k hyper heat outdoor Mitsubishi unit running 16k,12k,9k,9k. I saw -4*f when I went to work this morning at 6am. The 9k are in the bedrooms. 16k upstairs and 12k downstairs. They are working "harder" than normal, but handling the demand just fine. I leave them set at 69* all the time. The only complaint is the defrost cycle. The temperature drops in the house because of this (not enough to notice by feel), but when it heats back up. It take's a lot of power and high fan to get the temp back to the set point. The temperature eventually gets back to the setup point and everything goes back to normal fan speed and normal power consumption, just to start the process over again. This is an very low temperature for us in northern Ohio, so I am ok with it. The max I saw from Emporia was 8KW/hr draw for about 6 min.
 
Adding to this. Last night we hit a low of 7.6F (-13.5C). I have two Mr. Cool DIY 4th Gen units, one a single zone 18K ceiling cassette, the other a 3-zone configured 12K ceiling, 9K wall, 9K wall. No issues and everything is warm, but the system has to work. I say that because I live in a 120 year old house and the insulation is terrible to non-existent and the windows are the originals. Always another project...
 
We use two 18k mini-splits (Pioneer & Tosot). Use them to heat/cool an attached garage and a detached garage. Both heat-rated down to -13f. Supposedly, this means they can produce 50% of their rated heat output (9k) at -13f. Got down to -10f this morning. When it's around 5-10f the interior (evaporator) fan runs on low and they do well. At -10f they struggle. The inside fan runs on high with noticeably lower heat output. Both are entry-level units that cost less than a $1000 each. For the $$, totally pleased with their performance. No complaints.
 
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-13f is seriously effing cold. On another thread someone was talking a geo unit for a northern extreme. I personally do not live that far up in the tundra, but for the expense and annoyance of digging in geo you can buy a lot of mini-splits, or other inverter heat pump tech that is much simpler. Further those extremes are generally relatively short lived, and generally we are talking at night. It really doesn't matter how hard the unit has to work if it keeps you from freezing to death, and you gotta have something that burns organics as a backup no matter what to solve the edge /failure cases anyway.

I'm considering getting some property up in MT. We'll see how it goes.
 
I'm the one with the geothermal. NE Wyoming. Yesterday our high was -4F and had a low of -18. About 30 hours of below zero. I have see
about a solid week of below zero before but that is very rare. Geo is expensive up front for sure. We put it in in 2012 and have had zero problems
with it. Hope I haven't jinxed it! I don't think mini-splits were very popular here in 2012. Did they have the super heating ones back then?
 
OK, another day of data and we have new highs for energy use! The high yesterday was 14F, and the overnight low was -9F. We've use 4.41KWH to heat our home (910 SF plus conditioned storage space in the knee walls) for the past 24 hours. If we had been on grid, it would have cost us a whopping $1.01 at $0.23/KWH. And we hit a new high for 15-min demand of 602 watts.

Again, the moral of the story is that heat pumps designed for cold weather work great, and cost little to run, in a building designed to conserve energy.

So, what was our biggest energy user? It looks like it was the block heater on the tractor. It uses a near-constant 350 watts, and I forgot and left it plugged in overnight instead of having it come on early this morning with the automated plug. And now I need to get up, unplug it, and move some lumber from the storage shed down to the house before I start my "real" job.
 

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Mine worked in subzero temps too. Puts out 100F no problem. I have 12K EG4 hybrid systems.
People say it's less efficient than other means but I think it's all the same. When temps go low, _ALL_ systems become less efficient.

410A boils at -55F so it can get heat from air but less efficiently so.
 
My MrCool went into Freeze Protection mode when it was only 28F. I thought something broke when the head unit showed an error "FP". Then I looked up the error code.
 
Hello All!
I just finished installing four Mr Cool 9k ceiling cassette units connected to one 48k BTU condenser. Overall, the process was pretty straight forward and easy to do. I made a modification to the condensate lines though. I ended up installing a 3/4" Fernco adapter and hard piping a 3/4" PVC line to bring my drains down to the basement sump pump location. Other than that everything went pretty smoothly. I've been checking on the power consumption and I am VERY impressed. We had a pretty cool spring morning this past week that was around 28 degrees and when I put all four units on full blast I only measured 3200 watts. Later in the week when it got to 75 degrees, it automatically switched over to cooling mode and drew about 1800 watts for all four units. Keep in mind I have a very well insulated house, I would imagine though this system would draw a ton of power during the winter in a badly insulated house.
 

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