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JB Weld versus Loctite for grubscrews

I would be careful. I think it's possible for some of the JB to ooze up even though you took precautionary steps.. Not saying it will happen and I don't know. Personally I would not recommend putting a nut on until it is fully cured.

Perhaps nylon nut would work as an insurance policy - probably wouldn't bond well to JB Weld.



Did any of you end up purchasing those hollow dowels with sandpaper glued onto the end? That seems like the best way to clean off the terminal surface after all the messy work is done and before final assembly...

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Although, I prefer random motion of sandpaper so as not to cut concentric grooves.
 
Did any of you end up purchasing those hollow dowels with sandpaper glued onto the end? That seems like the best way to clean off the terminal surface after all the messy work is done and before final assembly...
:ROFLMAO:

 
My cells that were used before the loctite was completely cured did the same as cinergi's.
For some reason the charging seemed to draw out the loctite on to the terminal.
I had ring terminals on at the time.
It also for the most part stopped current flow.

But the ones that I used after 36 hours of cure didn't do that.
The rest of mine will get the full 72 hour cure before use.
 
Perhaps nylon nut would work as an insurance policy - probably wouldn't bond well to JB Weld.
If you just paint the surface of the terminal with Vaseline or something similar, nothing will stick to the terminal surface and it will clean off very easily.
 
Perhaps nylon nut would work as an insurance policy - probably wouldn't bond well to JB Weld.





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Although, I prefer random motion of sandpaper so as not to cut concentric grooves.

Good point - so that means what (once a grubscrew is in place)? Just using a small piece of fine-grit sandpaper and working your way around the grubscrew by hand?
 
:ROFLMAO:

I tried making one but had trouble getting the sandpaper to stick to the bottom.

I did it by hand with 220 grit. It wasn't horrible but I will avoid that task from now on.
 
My cells that were used before the loctite was completely cured did the same as cinergi's.
For some reason the charging seemed to draw out the loctite on to the terminal.
I had ring terminals on at the time.
It also for the most part stopped current flow.

But the ones that I used after 36 hours of cure didn't do that.
The rest of mine will get the full 72 hour cure before use.
So yeah, I think the only explanation for additional oozing during charging is that the expanding cell also places enough pressure on the terminal bottom to push it upwards slightly and reduce volume of the thread cavity...

That and the fact that Loctite Red remains fluid after 24 hours...
 
I tried making one but had trouble getting the sandpaper to stick to the bottom.

I did it by hand with 220 grit. It wasn't horrible but I will avoid that task from now on

I have not made mine yet but a little silicone on the bottom of what ever you are using for a dowel and some weight for a couple hours will stick the sand paper for sure. to get off just use silicone remover from permatex.
 
I tried making one but had trouble getting the sandpaper to stick to the bottom.

I did it by hand with 220 grit. It wasn't horrible but I will avoid that task from now on.
Meaning what? No more cleaning/sanding necessary since you’ve improved your process?

Are you doing anything to remove oxide before final assembly?
 
So yeah, I think the only explanation for additional oozing during charging is that the expanding cell also places enough pressure on the terminal bottom to push it upwards slightly and reduce volume of the thread cavity...

That and the fact that Loctite Red remains fluid after 24 hours...
loctite is an anaerobe. it only cures in the absence of air. If you have a puddle in the bottom of the terminal hole it will never cure just like it doesnt cure in the bottle.
 
loctite is an anaerobe. it only cures in the absence of air. If you have a puddle in the bottom of the terminal hole it will never cure just like it doesnt cure in the bottle.
Not understanding.

You mean a filled cavity with no air present will cure hard while a partially-filled cavity with some air (or a bubble under a grubscrew) will never cure?
 
I never did understand how lack of air made something cure.
The middle of the drop or what's deeper in the bottle experiences absence of air. Only the surface should remain liquid; all the rest should harden.

If curing is triggered by contact with an "activated" surface, that I could understand.

Crazy glue - "instantly bonds skin" - yea, it was developed as an alternative to sutures.
 
Meaning what? No more cleaning/sanding necessary since you’ve improved your process?
I'm not going to get loctite all over the terminals again. I won't worry about pulling the studs perpendicular.
I will just put the studs in. Wipe up any excess that comes out with a rag damp with acetone.
The loctite keeps coming out for at least a few hours so the terminals need to be wiped multiple times with a rag damp with acetone.
Wait 72 hours
Then just buff with scotchbrite
Are you doing anything to remove oxide before final assembly?
Nothing other than above but I put on noalox every time after I clean the terminals.
 
My loctite oozed as a result of charge/discharge ... and it may not have been trapped air pushing it around. Anyway, I would do a complete discharge and then a charge, and then disassemble and make sure no more has oozed out (all of this after curing of course). Cuz I had a lot of loctite UNDER my busbars after a discharge & charge (and I waited 24 hours for it to cure; albeit without proper primer) :(
I don't understand why you had different results than most of us. My studs are still tight and I checked under the busbars and nothing oozed out. I am thinking maybe you got a bad batch. I didn't use primer either.
 
In the case of Loctite --- hopefully every one is making sure the contents of the tube is mixed up thoroughly --Loctite seems to separate inside the tube more than anything else I've seen--the bigger bottles can be shaken much easier
 
I'm not going to get loctite all over the terminals again. I won't worry about pulling the studs perpendicular.
I will just put the studs in.
Wipe up any excess that comes out with a rag damp with acetone.
The loctite keeps coming out for at least a few hours so the terminals need to be wiped multiple times with a rag damp with acetone.
Wait 72 hours
Then just buff with scotchbrite

What is it that alleviated your concern about that (assuring the studs were vertical)?

I’ve worked out this solution using an M6 nut and an M6 socket largely motivated by your concern with this issue. Have you convinced yourself that all of your threads have been cut vertical and you don’t need to be concerned with any mechanical adjustments before the Loctite cures?
Nothing other than above but I put on noalox every time after I clean the terminals.

Got it - thanks.
 
I'm not going to get loctite all over the terminals again. I won't worry about pulling the studs perpendicular.
I will just put the studs in. Wipe up any excess that comes out with a rag damp with acetone.
The loctite keeps coming out for at least a few hours so the terminals need to be wiped multiple times with a rag damp with acetone.
Wait 72 hours
Then just buff with scotchbrite

Nothing other than above but I put on noalox every time after I clean the terminals.
Yeah, thats exactly what i did. As soon as i had the terminal face lightly sanded, i put a fine smear of noalox on right away, before doing anything else.
 
In the case of Loctite --- hopefully every one is making sure the contents of the tube is mixed up thoroughly --Loctite seems to separate inside the tube more than anything else I've seen--the bigger bottles can be shaken much easier
The more I learn about Loctite, the happier I am about my decision to go with JB Weld...
 
It's sort of the same thing that would happen if you wouldn't put equal parts when mixing JB weld or thoroughly mix it up
 
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