JBD 150A "Smart" BMS

[jaffadog]

Has anyone tried this JBD 150A (200A peak) 4s lifepo4 BMS? It appears to be a 150A variant of the BMS Will recommends. Same manufacturer (JBD). Different PCB layout. No included cables - but big pads to solder your own. Same bluetooth/app support. Smaller heat sink - which is concerning.

 

[Nfluester]

I have just ordered one to try but would love to hear if anyone else has used one?

 

[sid the seagull]

I’ve ordered as well , how did you go with the 150a BMS ?

 

[JohanB]

I have just ordered one to try but would love to hear if anyone else has used one?

I have just ordered one to try but would love to hear if anyone else has used one?

Did you try it yet? Or anyone else? I guess it is the same one as this thread, so there is some feedback there. I'm curious about how it handles 150A continously? And if there are any known problems?

 

[sid the seagull]

mine has arrived, now waiting for batteries and a CC/CV power supply to balance the beast.

I need to purchase lugs, etc so it will be quite some time that I can report back.

initial observatoin is that I'm happy with the JBD 150A BMS very high quality build for the price. My main concern is heat being able to be pushed away from the FETS. as it is I feel it will do 100A happily. beyound that I feel that 150A will run for 20 mins easily but it will heat up that that point.

There appears to be very simple mod that could be done to the BMS to achieve higher current more comfortably.

threaded brass nutserts hold the cover in. in time,,,, I will add a heat sink to the cover using these threaded nutsets. 8 small nuts that fit the nutsert. very small and of unknown size but I'm sure taking one out and visiting a machine or fastening shop will be able to match them. then using these bolts to secure additional heatsinks with thermal paste will bring the 150A JBD up to something much higher in the amp range.

I have two of these and will be using them to share the load across two 12v banks. my 560Ah of batterys will not last that long.

there is only so many times I will run the airconditioner and induction cook at the same time in the caravan.

 

[Nfluester]

here was my initial test with it

 

[techguy22]

I'm interested in this setup also. I'm upgrading my RV to Lifepo4 and I have 8 280ah cells on order. Will be building something similar to yours. I'm interested to see how it works for you. I'm hooking up to 3000W 12v inverter plus some small coach loads. How many watts are you going to be pulling from your batteries?

I was about to go with Chargery BMS because of the high amperage I need but I've seen just enough bad reviews about them that I haven't jumped on it yet. I was going to do a 2S4P pack with the Chargery but if I could get two of these I would do two 12v 4s packs and parallel them together. My typical load would be 1-2Kw so should be able to be easily handled by these.

Any idea if these have low temp freezing protection? I'm guessing not.

 

[Steve_S]

I got one of these but the 120A version with PC-UART for a 12V/280AH pack I am setting up.
Now I got the 120A knowing full well it will never see more than 60A draw. Derating FET based BMS' is common sense, especially when we know the specs provided are to the "edge case" of usability, meaning if it says 120A, that is the Absolute max it can handle for a bit.

Some Observations:
The aluminum plates have thermal paste adhesive to the fets. Both sides act as heat dissipation plates.
There is no provision (predrilled holes or anything) for mounting the BMS to a surface. Should be offset from a surface to allow for airflow.
No Lugs were provided with the BMS.
-- Make sure you get Lugs for 1/4" or 5/16, 3/8 for the tightest fit.
-- be careful to get the correct gauge for the wires.

 

[sid the seagull]

Any idea if these have low temp freezing protection?

I’ve not turned mine on yet. I’ve not personally seen it in the app, but I’m pretty sure it will be there.

Bms comes with three temp probes. I’m planing on placing them between the cells .

 

[WingNut]

I’ve not turned mine on yet. I’ve not personally seen it in the app, but I’m pretty sure it will be there.

Bms comes with three temp probes. I’m planing on placing them between the cells .

One temperature probe on mine (v 1.3). See https://diysolarforum.com/threads/smart-bms-4s-12v-150a-lifep04-with-temp-sensors.6439/#post-181737 for how to use the 3 extra connection points. Use the Carplounge app on Google Play.

 

[bgflyguy]

I watched a few seconds of the video, but didnt have time to finish. It looks like you have the load and battery on the same terminal of the bms. It wont be able to disconnect the load for any alarms.

Did you explain that or mean to do it?

 

[Nfluester]

I watched a few seconds of the video, but didnt have time to finish. It looks like you have the load and battery on the same terminal of the bms. It wont be able to disconnect the load for any alarms.

Did you explain that or mean to do it?

yes you need to watch the video during the test it was correctly wired and the LV cut off worked perfectly ?

 

[techguy22]

I just got mine in the mail today. I have only one temp lead and it's less than a foot long. How are you guys planning on mounting these in order to have the temp probe reach? I was thinking of bolting to a piece of plywood and bolting thru the big holes to make standoffs to also bolt my power cables to. I would love to see a picture of somebody who has installed one of these.

Also has anyone looked into the possibility of screwing some cooling fans to the front of this?

 

[techguy22]

I have my BMS connected and have done some testing. It doesn't seem to really heat up so I'm not concerned about the cooling as much.

There are two connectors on the board - 4 pin with H+ on one side and H- on the other side located next to where the balance leads plug in. Looking at the circuit traces it appears H+ is connected to the B+ section of the board directly. Has anyone determined what these connectors are used for? I'm also wondering if this BMS has the capability for an external on/off switch like the other smaller units have.

 

[WingNut]

There are more than 5 versions of the large 150A BMS with the B+ pad out there. The two connection points you have appear to have shown up on V1.5 boards. I've seen what you describe in photos of V1.5 boards. Mine are V1.3 and don't have those. V1.7 boards have additional changes. I think the switch option is the unlabeled connection point near the serial port connector but I'm not 100% certain of that.

 

[sid the seagull]

I’ve got v1.5 . Im pretty sure mine came with temperature probes attached to the two ports. With two free wires in each of the two connectors .

three temp probes all up.

another thing , I’m not sure if it’s this tread or another 150a thread. There was some debate about having the black , ground balance wire attached. I seems to get better balance results on channel 1 with it connected .

 

[gmoylan]

I got one of these but the 120A version with PC-UART for a 12V/280AH pack I am setting up.
Now I got the 120A knowing full well it will never see more than 60A draw. Derating FET based BMS' is common sense, especially when we know the specs provided are to the "edge case" of usability, meaning if it says 120A, that is the Absolute max it can handle for a bit.

Some Observations:
The aluminum plates have thermal paste adhesive to the fets. Both sides act as heat dissipation plates.
There is no provision (predrilled holes or anything) for mounting the BMS to a surface. Should be offset from a surface to allow for airflow.
No Lugs were provided with the BMS.
-- Make sure you get Lugs for 1/4" or 5/16, 3/8 for the tightest fit.
-- be careful to get the correct gauge for the wires.

Hi Steve,
could you offer any advice regards hooking two of these JBD 100a BMS in parallel? for pulling say 150a continuous?
@Will Prowse did a video a year ago on paralleling two 60a daly bms' i think and he was relatively happy but he advised d-rating them to maybe 80-90amps. He didnt cover any issues relating to balancing and whether the BMS' would conflict whilst trying balance or whether you had to disable one in the BT settings.

thanks in advance

 

[WingNut]

I’ve got v1.5 . Im pretty sure mine came with temperature probes attached to the two ports. With two free wires in each of the two connectors .

three temp probes all up.

another thing , I’m not sure if it’s this tread or another 150a thread. There was some debate about having the black , ground balance wire attached. I seems to get better balance results on channel 1 with it connected .

The instructions here https://www.lithiumbatterypcb.com/p...t-discharge-current-for-12v-lfp-battery-pack/ indicate that BC0 is not to be used but that is a V1.2 board. It also applies to V1.3 boards. I found that the tiny BC0 wire carried load current so I decided to not use it. Changes on V1.5 boards might make a difference

I have my BMS connected and have done some testing. It doesn't seem to really heat up so I'm not concerned about the cooling as much.

There are two connectors on the board - 4 pin with H+ on one side and H- on the other side located next to where the balance leads plug in. Looking at the circuit traces it appears H+ is connected to the B+ section of the board directly. Has anyone determined what these connectors are used for? I'm also wondering if this BMS has the capability for an external on/off switch like the other smaller units have.

Take a look at the posts and photos on JBD's facebook page. Those new connectors are probably the new heater interface connection points. I haven't found an app with heater settings yet.

 

[techguy22]

The instructions here https://www.lithiumbatterypcb.com/p...t-discharge-current-for-12v-lfp-battery-pack/ indicate that BC0 is not to be used but that is a V1.2 board. It also applies to V1.3 boards. I found that the tiny BC0 wire carried load current so I decided to not use it. Changes on V1.5 boards might make a difference

Take a look at the posts and photos on JBD's facebook page. Those new connectors are probably the new heater interface connection points. I haven't found an app with heater settings yet.

I didn't realize that they had a facebook page but it looks like they must be looking at some sort of heater setup.

I have v1.5 btw which is what their current photos look to be from.

I read that I don't NEED to connect the black wire but I had a ring terminal on it and didn't want it shorting out as I was playing around so I connected it anyways. I also connected a 12awg wire from B+ to the B+ pad on the BMS just to make sure that voltage readings were as close to accurate as possible. I figured there was a lot of copper on the negative side but one tiny wire on the positive side to power the BMS and take voltage readings. I'm not really sure why there is that big B+ pad but there must be some use case.

 

[WingNut]

I really didn't like that load current was being carried on that tiny BC0 wire. It's in parallel with the larger gauge wires in the final installation but I'd assume it messes with the SOC measuring accuracy as it bypasses the shunts. I have V1.3 boards so I don't know if it is the same for later version boards.

V1.2 & V1.3 boards have the optional balancing connector sockets in place on B1, B2 & B3. V1.5 boards lost the three JST 2 pin PH connector sockets for balance wires. 1st is 3.2V, 2nd is 6.4V, 3rd is 9.6V and the B+ pad is 12.8V. If you want to use B1, B2, & B3 for balancing you'd have to do some soldering now. Those three connector sockets are missing from V1.7 boards also.

V1.5 boards gained what looks like a mosfet near the temperature probe. V1.7 boards have the mosfet and also have extra resistors or diodes. They might be tvs diodes as they're fairly big. I haven't found a clear enough photo yet.

I wonder if the new mosfet is used to turn heater connections on and off?

Are you using xiaoxiang 3.1.1026.27.apk ? I don't see heater control on that app but I have V1.3 boards. I wonder if heater control shows up in the app dependent on BMS board firmware?

If you find out how to control the heater connectors let us know.