diy solar

diy solar

JBD 200A 4S wiring

Mubarto

New Member
Joined
Feb 26, 2022
Messages
5
I’ve ordered a JBD 200A 4S SP04S034. While I’m waiting for it to arrive I’m trying to order all the appropriate wiring and connectors. Can anyone confirm what size lugs I’ll need on the wires to the B- and C- pads? M6/M8/M10? I assume bolts are provided with the BMS to attach.

7145B139-C6B8-4CC4-AF62-5D4F428DE26B.jpeg

I asked JBD this question and support’s answer was “24AWG” which doesn’t answer my question but also seems to suggest a dangerously undersized wire for 200A of current - what am I missing here?
 
24AWG? That might be the wire size on the temp sensors…

If you can’t find specs on the page you are ordering the BMS from, I’d be concerned…
 
I’ve ordered a JBD 200A 4S SP04S034. While I’m waiting for it to arrive I’m trying to order all the appropriate wiring and connectors. Can anyone confirm what size lugs I’ll need on the wires to the B- and C- pads? M6/M8/M10? I assume bolts are provided with the BMS to attach.

View attachment 91458

I asked JBD this question and support’s answer was “24AWG” which doesn’t answer my question but also seems to suggest a dangerously undersized wire for 200A of current - what am I missing here?
They are M6 and no hardware for connecting was supplied. The cable I used was 50mm2 and the lugs were 50-6 (sorry, we use metric here in Australia). Attached is a photo of my setup which is mounted to wall of my RV above the battery bank. I was planning on installing the BMS with the cooling fins outside based on the old version but had to mount it this way to enable acess to the terminals. The black BMS supports are 3D printed and if anyone wants the STL file, I will try and post it. I have yet to connect the temp sensors to the battery and if anyone asks, the black aligator clip was attached because I was top balancing the pack at the time. I also 3D printed the bluetooth module and it is mounted to the board using 3M double sided tape.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_4483.jpg
    IMG_4483.jpg
    644.3 KB · Views: 243
Any chance you could make some of those mounts and drop ship them for a small fee? My 4S arrived earlier this week and was wondering how if mount it.

Also what gauge did you go with for your wiring? 200a should be close to what 1/0?
 
Any chance you could make some of those mounts and drop ship them for a small fee? My 4S arrived earlier this week and was wondering how if mount it.

Also what gauge did you go with for your wiring? 200a should be close to what 1/0?
I will post the STL file for the mount and suggest that you find someone local to where you live to print them. The cable is 50mm2 and is rated to approx 200 amp which I will never approach as my inverter is only rated at 2000 watt. A google search should give you the equivalent AWG rating.
 
Last edited:
I will post the STL file for the mount and suggest that you find someone local to where you live to print them. The cable is 50mm2 and is rated to approx 200 amp which I will never approach as my inverter is only rated at 2000 watt. A google search should give you the approx AWG rating.
STL file attached. From memory, I printed it at a 0.2 mm layer height and 100% infill.

I have had to compress it to allow it to be uploaded (WinRAR).
 

Attachments

  • BMS Mount.rar
    10.5 KB · Views: 96
I received my JBD BMS 4S 200A this week and it has 2 wires coming out of the plug adjacent to he Temp sensor leads. Does anybody know what these wires are for? Also I did not receive any instructions about the wiring harness, can anybody help with this?

Thanks
 
Mine had the connector empty but the wiring for a switch was separate.
 
They are M6 and no hardware for connecting was supplied. The cable I used was 50mm2 and the lugs were 50-6 (sorry, we use metric here in Australia). Attached is a photo of my setup which is mounted to wall of my RV above the battery bank. I was planning on installing the BMS with the cooling fins outside based on the old version but had to mount it this way to enable acess to the terminals. The black BMS supports are 3D printed and if anyone wants the STL file, I will try and post it. I have yet to connect the temp sensors to the battery and if anyone asks, the black aligator clip was attached because I was top balancing the pack at the time. I also 3D printed the bluetooth module and it is mounted to the board using 3M double sided tape.
Could you please tell me how exactly you connected the lugs to the terminal? Did you insert a post screw with a nut to secure the lug, or a threaded M6 bolt through the lug? I just received mine, but was expecting them to extend out. This is a pleasant surprise to save space, but am unsure how exactly to secure the lugs. Thank you.
 
I used an M6 post screw and an M6 nut to secure. With the new layout, I was concerned about the lug accidentally touching the aluminium top but as it turns out, with it aligned and properly tightened, there is little risk of that occuring.
 
I used an M6 post screw and an M6 nut to secure. With the new layout, I was concerned about the lug accidentally touching the aluminium top but as it turns out, with it aligned and properly tightened, there is little risk of that occuring.
Thank you for the reply. Sorry, I don't mean to be dense, but you were "concerned about accidentally touch the aluminum top" of what exactly? I have M6 post screws that came with my Eve cells, and they fit, but are longer than needed and protrude above the nut more than necessary, and this would become a hazard or fitment problem. I am also concerned about it extended down and pressing against the circuit board material. I was thinking to use M6 x 8mm flanged hex head bolts, but from the image you posted, you have a clean and tight fitting solution that I would like to replicate.
 
I believe @Reigate is referring to the wire lugs being able to rotate to a position where they would touch the aluminum backing plate on the BMS. I had a similar concern, but it appeared that the copper connection sits just higher than the aluminum plate, with the exception of two screws in the aluminum that sit high enough to be touched.

It is not likely to be problem, but I'm paranoid enough that I covered the screws with electrical tape. I also temporarily had to use a lug with a larger diameter hole than required for the fastener. If that fastener comes loose, the lug would come very close to touching the aluminum, so I covered the edge of the aluminum there with electrical tape also.

I used M6 x10mm bolts with a spring washer and flat washer underneath to connect the lugs to the BMS.
 
Thank you @Reigate and @hankcurt. The clearance issue now makes sense, and you are right, it is elevated above the surrounding BMS backing plate ever so slightly, but I too will cover the area with electrical and kapton tape. I was able to find M6 x 12mm hex head flanged bolts, flat and lock washers locally, combined with 2 AWG lugs. These are not tightened down, but will fit nicely. M6 x10mm would work well too if available.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_8937.jpeg
    IMG_8937.jpeg
    252.5 KB · Views: 52
  • IMG_8936.jpeg
    IMG_8936.jpeg
    303.6 KB · Views: 47
Thank you @Reigate and @hankcurt. The clearance issue now makes sense, and you are right, it is elevated above the surrounding BMS backing plate ever so slightly, but I too will cover the area with electrical and kapton tape. I was able to find M6 x 12mm hex head flanged bolts, flat and lock washers locally, combined with 2 AWG lugs. These are not tightened down, but will fit nicely. M6 x10mm would work well too if available.
It if a revive on this, but the manual I found was not all that helpful. Anyone know what the extra two wires are for? E013ED03-9026-40D5-8227-E75CCF9437DA.jpeg

One clearly is sized for j2 (discharge interface), since the manual is not really clear I thought I’d ask to confirm.

The second one (with the two black wires) looks like a sensor of some type. Thoughts?

Is there a use for J8? (H-)
3860A36E-20CD-4467-8611-3D81A9E6A731.jpeg
 
Back
Top