diy solar

diy solar

JBD 4S 200A BMS

Hey - I think I figured out a way to automate this top balancing process using only the built in balancing.

First, make sure you are set to only balance when not charging.

Then, under Parameter View, top two values:
- set the overvoltage to 3.55v
- set the overvoltage release to 3.45v

The BMS will charge up until whatever cell hits 3.55v, then charging will be turned off and active balancing kicks in.

The balancing will continue until the voltage in the highest cell drops to 3.45v, then the process starts again.

You will need to choose your two values (above) to fit your particular needs. the 3.55 / 3.45v seems to be working for me.

Then increase the values up to as high as 3.65 / 3.50v. Personally, I'll stop at 3.55 / 3.45 or maybe 3.60 / 3.45, but no higher, as it's not really necessary.

I'm just testing this now so I'll update if things don't go well.

I top balanced this 4s 160ah pack about 6 months ago and so far it's still plenty close enough, so this is just fine tuning it.

The way JBD "works" makes it pretty easy if sometimes lengthy to get things balanced (how long depends on how far out of balance the cells are).
When you turn off the "only balance on charge" setting, what it will do is burn down any cell above the voltage you set.

My method:
1. set to 3.45v and turn off balance only while charging, then charge until high cell voltage disconnect.
2. repeat this until all cells get above 3.45v
3. set balance voltage to 3.6v
4. again, charge until high cell voltage disconnect and let it discharge until all your cells are 3.6v
5. once they all are at 3.6v, I turn back on balance on charge only, and set balance to 3.4v
6. charge to 3.45v per cell, that is full (or greater than 95%, more like 98%)

Doing it this way and setting it back to default values will keep even grade B cells balanced for a very long time, more than 6 months.
Charging to 3.65v per cell on a regular basis is NOT a good idea, you put undue stress on the cells for miniscule return in capacity. The most out of balance set of cells (not actually very out of balance, only a few amp hours) takes about a day and a half, even less for the matched grade A cells. I just wanted to throw this out there, since people seem confused about how balancing works with JBD. Once you turn off the charge on balance, it will bring any cell above the balance set voltage down to that. Doing it this way means I get a very reliable BMS, no need to add additional ring terminals for an active balancer, and it just works with the defaults after it is done (balance only while charging, and balance voltage of 3.4v).
 
The way JBD "works" makes it pretty easy if sometimes lengthy to get things balanced (how long depends on how far out of balance the cells are).
When you turn off the "only balance on charge" setting, what it will do is burn down any cell above the voltage you set.

My method:
1. set to 3.45v and turn off balance only while charging, then charge until high cell voltage disconnect.
2. repeat this until all cells get above 3.45v
3. set balance voltage to 3.6v
4. again, charge until high cell voltage disconnect and let it discharge until all your cells are 3.6v
5. once they all are at 3.6v, I turn back on balance on charge only, and set balance to 3.4v
6. charge to 3.45v per cell, that is full (or greater than 95%, more like 98%)

Doing it this way and setting it back to default values will keep even grade B cells balanced for a very long time, more than 6 months.
Charging to 3.65v per cell on a regular basis is NOT a good idea, you put undue stress on the cells for miniscule return in capacity. The most out of balance set of cells (not actually very out of balance, only a few amp hours) takes about a day and a half, even less for the matched grade A cells. I just wanted to throw this out there, since people seem confused about how balancing works with JBD. Once you turn off the charge on balance, it will bring any cell above the balance set voltage down to that. Doing it this way means I get a very reliable BMS, no need to add additional ring terminals for an active balancer, and it just works with the defaults after it is done (balance only while charging, and balance voltage of 3.4v).
Thanks for this contribution, but it's hard to follow. Could you please edit your post to be more clear on what this refers to:
1. set to 3.45v
and which 'balance voltage' is this? I think you mean 'Balance turn on voltage'?
3. set balance voltage to 3.6v
I think I like this, and would say that using 3.55 or 3.60v as the highest value would probably do the trick, too.

And this is inspiring me to put some alligator clip leads on my capacitive balancer and just slap that on for an occasional quick top balance,
since the trade off of taking a long time to balance at the highest voltages is probably worth avoiding.
 
How many of you are drawing close the 200amps on this BMS?? I am thinking of this for a 280ah or 300ah DYI build with a 1500-watt inverter. I know some of these BMS will not really allow the amps advertised.
 
I typically size the BMS for a lot more than the expected current so I don't have experience running it at it's max.

Having said that,. A 1500W inverter will draw between 125 and 150A when it is fully loaded so a 200A BMS should be fine
 
How many of you are drawing close the 200amps on this BMS?? I am thinking of this for a 280ah or 300ah DYI build with a 1500-watt inverter. I know some of these BMS will not really allow the amps advertised.
I built a 280ah battery using this BMS last year, powering a 2000W inverter and it worked just fine. No problem at all pulling amps to run the residential fridge, furnace, microwave/convection oven all at the same time.
 
I built a 280ah battery using this BMS last year, powering a 2000W inverter and it worked just fine. No problem at all pulling amps to run the residential fridge, furnace, microwave/convection oven all at the same time.
That is what I was hoping to see. I probably only be drawing 1000 watts anyway but wanted to be sure it would handle the surge.
 
How many of you are drawing close the 200amps on this BMS?? I am thinking of this for a 280ah or 300ah DYI build with a 1500-watt inverter. I know some of these BMS will not really allow the amps advertised.
I've tested Daly, JBD and JK BMS pretty extensively. I've found the JBD to be the single brand that actually lives up to their rated claims the best, without smoking things if suddenly shut down. Daly would be the one that is least honest, and has very poor quality control. I haven't tested it above 150 amps, but the 200 amp JBD performs well at 150 amps without undue heat, and no problems shutting off discharge at that rate.
 
I typically size the BMS for a lot more than the expected current so I don't have experience running it at it's max.

Having said that,. A 1500W inverter will draw between 125 and 150A when it is fully loaded so a 200A BMS should be fine
Probably more than that with an inductive load. Still less than 200A.
 
Thanks for this contribution, but it's hard to follow. Could you please edit your post to be more clear on what this refers to:

and which 'balance voltage' is this? I think you mean 'Balance turn on voltage'?

I think I like this, and would say that using 3.55 or 3.60v as the highest value would probably do the trick, too.

And this is inspiring me to put some alligator clip leads on my capacitive balancer and just slap that on for an occasional quick top balance,
since the trade off of taking a long time to balance at the highest voltages is probably worth avoiding.

Screenshot_20230318-103050_Overkill Solar.jpg

Overkill Solar BMS app example. Only two toggles, Bal. only when charging, toggle off when trying to top balance.
Start Voltage - 3400 millivolts is what you change, first to 3.45 (3450) then to 3.6 (3600).

Different apps have different locations and probably nomenclature. When finished, just set it back to defaults, 3400 (3.4v) and Bal. only when charging toggled on. Basically just just burns down any cell above the balance voltage until it hits the set voltage. 5 millivolts is the smallest difference it will let you set. Despite what some YouTube "influencers" will tell you (complete with click here and I get a cut links), you don't need an active balancer even with grade B cells. On the other hand, if you rarely charge to full (3.45v is what I use), and go months between full, you may need one.

I've found that all the balancer (provided you charge to full a couple of times a week) has to do is keep up with the difference in self discharge rates. No problems for me, but then again, I watch people on YouTube change the balance and charger settings 5 or 6 times in a single video and come to the conclusion that you need an active balancer. My experience is very different. Do not try to charge to 3.65v all the time, you are just stressing your cells for less than 1% increase in capacity. If you look at the charge curve, you will understand why 3.4 and 3.45 are the settings I use.
 
Those of you that build a pack with the heat pads. what and how many pads did you use. anyone have link to pads? Not sure how many watts they should be for the BMS . just trying to get some stuff on order for the 4s 280 camper build.
 
Those of you that build a pack with the heat pads. what and how many pads did you use. anyone have link to pads? Not sure how many watts they should be for the BMS . just trying to get some stuff on order for the 4s 280 camper build.

One or two 7W polyimide heating pads per battery will do fine, if you have a properly insulated battery box. Add them to an aluminium sheet placed under the cells to act as a heat spreader. Coupled with a thermostat to control the temperature, something like these.
 
Those of you that build a pack with the heat pads. what and how many pads did you use. anyone have link to pads? Not sure how many watts they should be for the BMS . just trying to get some stuff on order for the 4s 280 camper build.

Here's how I did it.

 
How many of you are drawing close the 200amps on this BMS?? I am thinking of this for a 280ah or 300ah DYI build with a 1500-watt inverter. I know some of these BMS will not really allow the amps advertised.
Andy on Off0Grid Garage was testing the 2a4s20p JK BMS which has a rated capacity of 200A and was pulling 240A for 5 minutes when it did an over current full load shut down. It smoked one of the 20 FETs but is still working. Not saying that I like to run mine at max and that is why I have two packs to run my 2000W invertor. With it I see 185A output fairly regularly. With a 1500W I would have been ok with a single pack.
 
Just to clarify, you mean 2a24s20p. Which is a 2 amp active balancer, 8-24s cells, 200 amp max continuous.
No I meant B2A8S20P-h which was installed on a 4s 12v pack. It has 2A balance, can be used in a 4s to 8s configuration and has 200A capacity with 350A surge capacity for 5-minute.
 
No I meant B2A8S20P-h which was installed on a 4s 12v pack. It has 2A balance, can be used in a 4s to 8s configuration and has 200A capacity with 350A surge capacity for 5-minute.

Since it can handle 4 to 8 cells, what do you do with the remaining four balance wires when you have only four cells?
 
Here's how I did it.

Thats a pretty nice system. For my application I am looking for something less costly. MY pack will be in the heated space of the travel trailer, and it's unlikely I will need the heat pads but like have them just in case I need them. I am thinking two pads maybe on each side of the cells. as I think over my Design I come up with more questions.
1. How many watts can you run off the H (heat port) of the BMS
2. when boondocking my only charge source is solar. when the BMS is in a cold temp charge disconnect. How many amps of charge will it take to activate the H port? obviously as the sun Rises in the morning the solar will start to produce power but at first it would not be enough to run the heats pads.so my question is there a certain amount current the bms wants to see before it activates heat pads, or will it just apply whatever charge current it sees in the charge line?
3.This question is on BMS mounting. I think I found a box that 4 eve 280K cells will fit and still have a little room at end for BMS it will be tight. How much air space do I need in front of the heat sink? I know the more the better, But can i get away with 1/2" 3/4"?
 
My setup was expensive. The thermostats that were provided are not what I am using now. I don't recall how much those thermostats cost but removing them from the overall cost would help some. Also, the heating pads were custom made to my specifications so that the pads covered the entire long side of the battery. I'm am quite pleased with how they're working out. The pads are low wattage so they slowly heat the cells.

My only argument against using the warming port of the BMS is that you waste valuable charging time waiting for the batteries to come up to temperature if they've fallen below 32°F. The BMS may have to wait for the battery temperature to come up before it allows the cells to be charged. With my setup, there is no waiting time since the cells are always above ~34°F. It's surprised how little power the warming pads use. Throughout the winter I check on the idle system and I've never see the state of charge below 98%.
 
Since it can handle 4 to 8 cells, what do you do with the remaining four balance wires when you have only four cells?
You can either cut them off or just leave them open circuit.
 
Thats a pretty nice system. For my application I am looking for something less costly. MY pack will be in the heated space of the travel trailer, and it's unlikely I will need the heat pads but like have them just in case I need them. I am thinking two pads maybe on each side of the cells. as I think over my Design I come up with more questions.
1. How many watts can you run off the H (heat port) of the BMS
2. when boondocking my only charge source is solar. when the BMS is in a cold temp charge disconnect. How many amps of charge will it take to activate the H port? obviously as the sun Rises in the morning the solar will start to produce power but at first it would not be enough to run the heats pads.so my question is there a certain amount current the bms wants to see before it activates heat pads, or will it just apply whatever charge current it sees in the charge line?
3.This question is on BMS mounting. I think I found a box that 4 eve 280K cells will fit and still have a little room at end for BMS it will be tight. How much air space do I need in front of the heat sink? I know the more the better, But can i get away with 1/2" 3/4"?
On my motorhome, my two 460Ah packs are in the battery compartment in an unheated part of the basement. In the original configuration, this compartment was vented as required for FLA batteries. I sealed up the vents so that it would remain dry and not have wind blowing through. This past winter, I never saw a battery temperature lower than 50º even when the outside temperature dropped to the low 20's. On my trip home, I drove through Nevada and the air temperature was down as low as 10º and even though we were traveling at +60mph, the batteries stayed well above 40º. In my motorhome, if I am inside and heating the house, it provides enough heat through the floor to keep the batteries warm enough to charge. If I am not heating the coach, it is because I am not in it and do not need to charge because I am using very little power.
 
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