JBD 4S 200A BMS

[JayFC]

Which manual are you referring to? Do you have a link?

this is the best I could find. https://cdn.hackaday.io/files/1628066965491904/User manual for v1.1.pdf. Otherwise, JBD has it in Chinese only in this ZIP file.
http://www.jiabaida.com/uploads/sof...1.im.0.0.7e0e4edfdzhzxA&file=xiaoxiangBMS.zip
I was able to use Microsoft translator to turn it to English, but I wasn't able to find anything in regards to the heater pad setting function... yet.

 

[HRTKD]

Maybe once Overkill Solar starts to carry that model they'll add the instructions for the heater interface to their excellent documentation.

 

[Daniel LS]

How do the Discharge switch work? If I have the wires open or close them togheter I still get voltage at the output, + and C-. Should they be connected to C- and +? Or what?

 

[DJSmiley]

Did you enable the switch in the app?

By default it doesn't do anything, you need to enable the switch. 2 wires disconnected = BMS off, 2 wires connected = BMS on.

It's a 2-wire cable, no need to connect to any other terminal, just short those 2 wires to power on, disconnect to power off. As said, after you have enabled the switch in the app, otherwise the switch status is ignored. (default)

 

[Daniel LS]

Ahh.. Found the setting in the app. Super, thank you! ?

 

[nekit]

So I got my 2 JBD S4 200A BMS w/heater a couple days ago. Anyone have any idea what these 2 (1 with each BMS) things are for? They were loose and looks like they are temperature switches.

 

[poxxxy]

Just thought I'd drop in this thread with the other guys in the UK. I'm also in the UK and planning on building a new Lithium Iron Phosphate battery bank to replace my shoddy 360AH Lead acid. Was going to go with 4 * 280AH 280LK EVE 3.2 cells and was offered a JBD BMS from Basen, I hadn't heard of them but just looking into them and looks a good option. One of my main concerns is I was in Scotland just a week or so ago with temps hitting minus 2/minus 3. I'll need to replace my VSR with a battery to battery charger, reroute the power for my diesel heater as its currently being taken from the leisure battery side of the VSR up by the vehicle battery :D. I guess I'll also need to be replacing my battery charger that runs of the hook up via a multi pole switch (that i've never even used yet :')).

So when it comes to heating the cells... lets say the load has been cut off due to low voltage cut off, how are the heat pads activated/where is the power going to come from? :D.

I don't have solar in there yet, but I'm going to have to get something setup most likely... first trips out this summer season we could stay parked for 4 days without needing to drive/charge, now we are down to 1 day before having to move on and run the engine to charge the batteries back up.

 

[HRTKD]

So when it comes to heating the cells... lets say the load has been cut off due to low voltage cut off, how are the heat pads activated/where is the power going to come from? :D.

Once you hit low voltage disconnect, you're pretty much screwed. The BMS will still take a charge, so once the PV is available and comes online both the battery and the heating pad will have access to power. If the BMS is also in a low temperature disconnect then it won't take a charge. But the heating pad should still get power. This scenario does NOT take into account using the heating circuit on the BMS. I don't know the details on how/when that works.

Some solar charge controllers will still operate with a battery in low voltage disconnect mode. Victron says some of their will charge a severely depleted battery. Does that mean it would work in a low voltage cutoff situation? I don't know.

To avoid the low voltage cutoff you have some options:
1. Lots of extra Ah capacity
2. Ensure that your loads get cutoff well before the BMS cuts off

My initial implementation uses option #1. It would take many days of use to deplete my 560 Ah battery bank. Eventually, I may implement a Victron Battery Protect device on the low amperage 12v circuit. My Victron Multiplus will be programmed to stop inverting well before my BMS gives me the finger.

 

[JayFC]

So I got my 2 JBD S4 200A BMS w/heater a couple days ago. Anyone have any idea what these 2 (1 with each BMS) things are for? They were loose and looks like they are temperature switches.

I dont think I've seen this with my unit. A connector using 2x black wires with open ends i got. But not what looks like a ceramic resistance

 

[poxxxy]

Oh man, why'd you have to mention 560Ah... now i'm tempted to buy another 4 cells whilst i'm ordering! I'm kinda glad I came across the JBD variety, it was actually offered by basen as a BMS option at my purchase point with Alibaba. Seems fairly cheap compared to a Daly.

 

[HRTKD]

Oh man, why'd you have to mention 560Ah... now i'm tempted to buy another 4 cells whilst i'm ordering! I'm kinda glad I came across the JBD variety, it was actually offered by basen as a BMS option at my purchase point with Alibaba. Seems fairly cheap compared to a Daly.

While I haven't looked at prices in over a year, I thought the JBD was more expensive than the Daly. I think the JBD is better. Since I don't own a Daly I'm basing that on all the "issues" threads in the BMS subforum.

 

[Daniel LS]

So I got my 2 JBD S4 200A BMS w/heater a couple days ago. Anyone have any idea what these 2 (1 with each BMS) things are for? They were loose and looks like they are temperature switches.

I also got it, plus another balance cable that not fit any connectors. I wrote and ask on AliX where I bought it from and got answer it was spare parts... Eh... Well, I not use them.

 

[bryn]

Lol, I got two of these when my 200a BMS package came, I thought it was just accidentally put in there.

as I couldn’t find anywhere to use them on my bms’s

 

[DJSmiley]

By the label '60 c' and the layout I'm 99.9 sure they are thermal fuses.

Example of one:

P82 55 05100 | Limitor Thermal Fuse +55°C 2.5 A, 250V ac | RS

nl.rs-online.com

Those automaticly reset and will provide additional temperature protection in case of overheating. You can connect them to the on/off switch (and enable that). Once the thermal fuse is triggered it will release the on/off thus shutting down the BMS.

You can mount it eg to the heatsink. (I'm not sure if there is an internal temperature protection as well), or if this has been replaced by an external one)

I have to test if this is just an additional sensor, or is required on the heatsink (if there still is any monitoring/protection if the heatsink becomes too hot)
In best case, the heatsink has already its own sensor. In worst case, there is no sensor and in that case it would require this external fuse to be used to prevent overheating (Altough that's not likely to happen unless you're mounting the BMS in a fully enclosed box and running the full 200A for longer periods of time)

 

[bayernschorsch]

Did you enable the switch in the app?

By default it doesn't do anything, you need to enable the switch. 2 wires disconnected = BMS off, 2 wires connected = BMS on.

It's a 2-wire cable, no need to connect to any other terminal, just short those 2 wires to power on, disconnect to power off. As said, after you have enabled the switch in the app, otherwise the switch status is ignored. (default)

Hello DJSmiley, can you tell me where and in which app the switch is activated? Thanks Ulrich

 

[Daniel LS]

Hello DJSmiley, can you tell me where and in which app the switch is activated? Thanks Ulrich

In the app Xiaoxiang under function settings.

 

[Fpoet]

Can someone indicate the screw size for the heater connector on the board?

 

[nekit]

So I'm setting up my JBD 200A BMS 12V 4S with EVE 304ah cells. I used the Overkill specs and changed the specs for the 304ah cells. What's everyone think of the settings in the attached pictures? Let me know if I've got anything wrong. This is my first build. Thanks

 

[DJSmiley]

See the overkill manual for a decent explanation.
I only would suggest setting the low-temp to 5 celcius, and release at 7 or so.

At a low temp, you can't pull any amps into the battery, especially <5c. Below 0 charging should not happen at all.
Also take into account the location of the sensor. Usually, this is mounted on the cells. That doesn't give accurate readings for the actual cell core temperature. If you put the battery in a heated compartment, the sensor will read 0c pretty soon, since it's more affected by ambient temp, while the core of the cell is still much colder.

5c is, imho, a better option, since it does leave some marging for the cells to get a little warmer (More likely the core temp is also starting to - slightly- rise.
The better you can get the sensor to the core, the better. I've installed mine in a small gap in the insulation sheets between the cells - so it's barely affected by ambient temperature

 

[nekit]

See the overkill manual for a decent explanation.
I only would suggest setting the low-temp to 5 celcius, and release at 7 or so.

At a low temp, you can't pull any amps into the battery, especially <5c. Below 0 charging should not happen at all.
Also take into account the location of the sensor. Usually, this is mounted on the cells. That doesn't give accurate readings for the actual cell core temperature. If you put the battery in a heated compartment, the sensor will read 0c pretty soon, since it's more affected by ambient temp, while the core of the cell is still much colder.

5c is, imho, a better option, since it does leave some marging for the cells to get a little warmer (More likely the core temp is also starting to - slightly- rise.
The better you can get the sensor to the core, the better. I've installed mine in a small gap in the insulation sheets between the cells - so it's barely affected by ambient temperature

This 200a BMS has two temperature sensors. I was thinking of putting one between the center cells and one taped to the outside of cells. Sound good?