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JKBMS Inverter Edition Problems/Issues | No Support / Help to fix major issues. - DO NOT BUY ! Warning (as of Oct.12.2024)

upnorthandpersonal said:
I did too, but Andy refuted that. Who knows...

EDIT:

www.youtube.com

Post from Off-Grid Garage

Problem found and solved (Thanks to @nzlithium1352 ). The coil of the current limiter was touching the front panel of the BMS. I pushed it aside and now the ...
www.youtube.com www.youtube.com
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I have the deepest respect for him, but I still think it was just the double stacked lug bumping something. I haven't gone back to look at comments since yesterday, and if he did a continuity test on the bench then it's crow for me. Regardless, I'm glad he caught it before it became a much more serious issue.

And to wit, it does look like there was one DOA BMS.
 
OK, maybe one of the BMS was touching but why then did it do that when he had the front cover off and there was no "contact" ?

What BMS would I recommend ? NONE ! Not anymore, I feel GUILTY for recommending/suggesting these when they came out BUT that was before NAMI & Pals chose to SHUN some of us who had been helping them. Forget the plagiarization and other stuff they pulled to boot.

Rule of 3 Applied, 3 chances and your OUT, no 3rd times a charm... 1 outright Lie negates further chances instantly. JK & HankZor - NAMI's (including clones) got more than 3 chances due to the benefit of doubt over translation messes and the result is : we all see it now, don't we. Even worse is when they outright lie to Vendors & Suppliers who pass on the BS to clients unknowingly....

It is my understanding that PACE is stepping up to the plate with some new Goodies soon, I've also heard on the backchannels that Seplos is also doing "something". In either case, regardless, everything like this is about to cost a hell of a lot more for many DIYers.
 
houseofancients said:
My good old seplos v2's , maybe add a neey 4a balancer if using older or questionable quality cells ?
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I have several packs. Some use cells that 2018 EVE LF280 (V1) and now all the way up to new V3 Dual Terminal cells. I have Bulk, B, A and A Matched & Batched cells within the "fleet". So the full array but ALL are EVE LF280's V1, V2 & V3 cells... no other brands, I got rid of all those packs.

The "Bank" charges up and reaches FLOAT (controlled by Midnite Solar WizBangJr Shunt controlling the Midnite Classic Controllers) and the largest deviation is typically 20-24mv with the "Oldest V1 Bulk Cell Pack" when ABSORB Ends and that's how Float starts with Active Balancing kicking at 3.42V and allowing for 5mv deviation (yes I dropped it from 10mv). The deviations are handled and within 30 Minutes ALL Packs are at the same voltage and cell deviation at 5mv MAX... The V2 & V3 Cells will be either 1 or 2 mv difference by then as well.

Now, the Previous Edition of JK (the black ones without the comms ports) barely managed this and it took much longer. Those were all 200A with 2A Active. These Newer Inverter Models are FAR BETTER with the 2A Active balance and faster (consistently) to getting everything where "I want" which is tight. I have now also tested this bank with a Mini-Thrash Test (Hard testing to edge case limits) including down to 2C/35F and up to 40C/104F and it stands as is BUT below 5C temp, topping off and fully balancing out takes much longer ! That's just the chemistry.
 
DeejayT said:
Strange, I updated 5 JK's to 15.38 yesterday. 150A and 200A and they all run without any problems. PC software and app data are identical.
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I disconnected in the PC software, plugged into the pack with ID1, connected back again and values reappeared. Disconnected again and plugged back into master pack and values were their. ??
 
Steve_S said:
Now, the Previous Edition of JK (the black ones without the comms ports) barely managed this and it took much longer. Those were all 200A with 2A Active. These Newer Inverter Models are FAR BETTER with the 2A Active balance and faster (consistently) to getting everything where "I want" which is tight.
Click to expand...

That's interesting, I have the JK B2A8S20P's (silver ones) so the 2A balance circuit is probably the same vs the newer Inverter PB series, I wonder what the difference is in how it works to make it faster to balance?
 
Alarchist said:
That's interesting, I have the JK B2A8S20P's (silver ones) so the 2A balance circuit is probably the same vs the newer Inverter PB series, I wonder what the difference is in how it works to make it faster to balance?
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I had them side x side while upgrading my packs in the bank and it was pretty darn obvious. I don't know the "tech" underlying it but it's observable different during the balancing (watching the energy transferring between cells) and the algorithms have definitely changed.

I have no clue if they did change the algorithm code in all their Active Balancing BMS (I would have personally) but I suppose if someone had old & new models of the original & Inverter model and did tests and evals we may be able to unpack that.

I am NOT buying any more BMS or cells etc... Battery Business is CLOSED and I'm disposing of stock bits & pieces and even chucking a fair pile into Recycle as no one is interested... Hell I was even trying to "give" stuff away, just pay shipping from Canada to ... and 1 person bit and said he'd pay half of it (texan). I don't have to tell you my reaction, I'm sure you can figure it out. a Few people (local) got 280AH Packs and some Lower AH packs, some SCC's and more and they even tossed in cash for the gratitude, also got a few Amazing Home Cooked meals with lot's of love.... Good part is these were people with little to no cash to spare & struggling and they were most worthy of such. Even gave away my antique sqaure body chevy trucks to a young lad who loved the designs and who helped me with some jobs on the property... (he was tickled to get the 80 Rustfree C-10 with only 41,000 miles on the odo... always garaged, oiled every year by the original owner how I got it from).

* Note, in case you missed it along the way. I am terminal, not likely to see 2026, just have a GF & a cat... tried to help as many as I could and did okay for the most part, finally gave up after people got stoopid & demanding which made me realize the pointless nature of continuing to do so... I'm disposing & clearing out everything and buggering off in a couple of months on my Final Grand Adventure & not coming back.

EDIT PS: It's a freeing & releasing situation at least. I get to see the start of the Great Calamity but won't see the result & final outcome and THAT is a relief. Sorry folks, buy things are about seriously screwy globally starting next month, Good Luck & Best Wishes to all the good folk everywhere, your gonna need it.
 
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Steve_S said:
Note, in case you missed it along the way. I am terminal, not likely to see 2026, just have a GF & a cat... treed to help as many as I could and did okay for the most part, finally gave up after people got stoopid & demanding which made me realize the pointless nature of continuing to do so... I'm disposing & clearing out everything and buggering off in a couple of months on my Final Grand Adventure & not coming back.
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Wishing you the very best on your journey Steve.
 
Is there a new android app version out that fixes the display issue besides what is on play store?
 
Can anyone actually work out what the difference is between HW 14 and HW 15?

And is there an easy way to identitfy which one you are buying?
 
Tinbum said:
I disconnected in the PC software, plugged into the pack with ID1, connected back again and values reappeared. Disconnected again and plugged back into master pack and values were their. ??
Click to expand...
It's done it again. After rebooting the laptop all the values have gone again. :(
 
I bought 5 "new" jk bms's over a year ago, right after they first came out (and have bought 6 more since) and all of them are hw version 15, I think version 14 may have been a first run of them perhaps?
 
TheGreenThing said:
am i missing something??
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If you downloaded it from the Play Store its still the old version, the new version has to be downloaded and installed outside of the Play Store. As I am on Android 15 that's no longer an option with the apk file provided.
 
Hello, when I see some screenshots of your BMS, I find that the values of the cell resistances are high for me. However, I put silver conductive grease, such as chemtronics cw7100. Do you have an explanation?
 

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Kiki387 said:
Hello, when I see some screenshots of your BMS, I find that the values of the cell resistances are high for me. However, I put silver conductive grease, such as chemtronics cw7100. Do you have an explanation?
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0.056 to 0.099 looks like More variation, not less - do you have some wires longer and some cut short between the BMS and the cell connections?
 
OffGridForGood said:
0.056 to 0.099 looks like More variation, not less - do you have some wires longer and some cut short between the BMS and the cell connections?
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I did not cut any wires from the supplied balance wires of the bms. But the terminal im using which i dont know what kind of material.. it is made up of brass gold thingy. Then screwed on the bus bar balance tap screwed holes

Will it be beneficial to apply electric grease?
 
TheGreenThing said:
I did not cut any wires from the supplied balance wires of the bms. But the terminal im using which i dont know what kind of material.. it is made up of brass gold thingy. Then screwed on the bus bar balance tap screwed holes

Will it be beneficial to apply electric grease?
Click to expand...
I am not sure - can you post a picture of the set up and wires/connections to the battery bus bars?
I have 8 DIY packs and not one has this much variation in the resistance wires. Maybe some of the crimp connections are not quite tight?
Did you need to splice and make some BMS sense wires longer to reach the farthest cells ? (I have some with splices) these need to be solid connections.
 
Kiki387 said:
Hello, when I see some screenshots of your BMS, I find that the values of the cell resistances are high for me. However, I put silver conductive grease, such as chemtronics cw7100. Do you have an explanation?
Click to expand...

Agreed, 0.056 ohm to 0.099 ohm is way higher than busbar resistance or cell IR.
So naturally we might think it is balance lead resistance. But people have said it isn't that either?

Could be 0.056 milli-ohm busbar resistance.
Too low to be cell IR, which might be 0.170 milli-ohm to 0.250 milli-ohm.
 
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