JuncTek Battery Monitor vs Victron SmartShunt

[Rickey]

I'm not sure, I figured these were designed to handle current.
View attachment 256408
I want to get my rectifier on the correct side of the shunt without having to shut the system down... I know what I should do but it's blue.

Dear friends, the small screws in the attachment are used to fix the shunt mainboard. Please do not connect the wires, otherwise it will cause abnormal measurement data and irreversible damage to the she'b

 

[Texas-Mark]

Dear friends, the wifi module of KM-F is inside the display. Once connected to the network, it will not be restricted by distance.

I'm pretty sure the OPer was talking about distance from the display to the wifi access point.

 

[Sonne]

I'm pretty sure the OPer was talking about distance from the display to the wifi access point

The distance you can get a connection from the wifi router will surely be a function of the spec and performance of that router / access point, rather than the Junctek device ?

 

[Texas-Mark]

The distance you can get a connection from the wifi router will surely be a function of the spec and performance of that router / access point, rather than the Junctek device ?

Not totally. It will be a function of both. Any device connected to a wifi router will be limited by not only the routers transmit power and receive sensitivity, but also by the connected device's specs. Routers will typically have higher values for both than the connected devices. For example, I can often see wifi access points with my phone farther than I can actually connect to them due to the lower transmit power of the phone.

In any case, my KM-F series units (I have three now) are about 60 feet away from the access point and work fine at that distance.

Side note: I have a 4th unit on the way, but it's been stuck in "Arrived at linehaul office" for 3 weeks now. Just waiting for the "30 day guaranteed delivery" to kick in in a few days so I can hopefully get a refund and order another one.

In case anyone is interested, here is a screenshot of what I have been calling the "quick view" screen of the app where you can see the most important info for each monitor at the same time at a glance.

 

[Texas-Mark]

On a related note to these KM-F series, I have only seen them on e-bay (from China) and AliExpress. Cheaper from AliExpress so that is where I have been getting mine.

The second one I ordered was taking longer than the first and third one I ordered as it was stuck at "Arrived at linehaul office" for a few weeks. However yesterday it changed to "Failed to clear at import customs. Package confiscated by customs due to safety reasons". WTF? What safety reasons? The only thing I can think of is someone saw "battery" in battery monitor and decided it was a battery or something. Now I have to see about trying to get a refund.

 

[Sonne]

On a related note to these KM-F series, I have only seen them on e-bay (from China) and AliExpress. Cheaper from AliExpress so that is where I have been getting mine.

The second one I ordered was taking longer than the first and third one I ordered as it was stuck at "Arrived at linehaul office" for a few weeks. However yesterday it changed to "Failed to clear at import customs. Package confiscated by customs due to safety reasons". WTF? What safety reasons? The only thing I can think of is someone saw "battery" in battery monitor and decided it was a battery or something. Now I have to see about trying to get a refund.

US customs are a law unto themselves! I recently sent something from Europe to the Us and it ended up in customs for about ten days, with the most ridiculous and irrelevant questions being asked. Their function seems to mainly be to impede international trade.

I now also have a KM series monitor and find it better in many ways than my KH. I’ll post a review thread at some point, but I need to use it and get to know it first.

 

[Al Simerz]

Hi, Long time reader first time poster.
I bought three of these Junctek units (K110F) a while back. They've all been working well, do exactly what I ask of them and for the price I'm quite happy. However recently one, and only one, of the units has experienced the freezing issued mentioned a few pages back. It's not a common thing, happened 3 times in about 8 months now, but it has been twice in the last 2 months.

I'll go out first thing in the morning, 5am, and press the set button to light up the screen (because it's the easiest to find in the dark). The screen lights up and shows everything it's supposed to but it's frozen. Like the previous poster if I disconnect the shunt from the control box the screen resets and shows the data again. Although last time I did it the clock and everything reset, but the battery capacity didn't.

It's happened at three different times during the night, so I can't trace it back to a specific time.

I have had a data logger on the battery that records voltage over time and there has been no peaks or ebbs in voltage during the times the monitor has frozen.

I read that maybe the data recording being full could have been an issue and while I wouldn't rule that out I can't confirm it given that the first time the unit went months without freezing, but last time it only went about 4 weeks. I can't remember what the data recording is set at but the other two units are set the same and have been in for the same time and never had the freezing issue.

Although I doubt it has anything to do with the freezing issue the unit in question also no longer has the LED on the control box flashing, that died within about 2 months of it being installed.

I haven't been able to test the app at the time of any freezes to see what the app is reading. While the app is generally pretty good at times it doesn't connect so I tend to check the screen more often than I have my phone with me. Although I have noticed that the app doesn't automatically update the time on the screen like the manual suggests.

The screen is also pulling away from the silver surround, but that's easily fixed and shouldn't be causing any reading issues.

App version is 1.4.2
Firmware version is 1.37

Any help or suggestions are welcome.

 

[Sonne]

@Al Simerz i have no answers to your issue, except to add that my KH series monitor would also freeze from time to time. Hopefully someone better informed will comment on how this can be solved, but I actually uninstalled my KH in favour of a KM monitor which has been solid so far.

 

[Texas-Mark]

Same here. One of my KH units would randomly freeze. So far no big issues issues with the KM series units. A couple of times when I open the app, one of the units will not show data (on that "quick view" screen), but closing the app and reopening it fixes it.

For those that have the KM-F units, does your display show the correct time zone? Mine don't. But I never went into the display menu to see if there is a time zone setting there. I just used the app to set things up and there is no setting in there for time zone (that I could find). My phone does sync the time, just off by like 6 hours.

 

[Al Simerz]

I really can't be bothered buying the KM unit. If I had my time again I'd definitely look at it over the KH, but for me it's another $250 (probably more without Black Friday specials) to replace all 3, 2 of which have never had any problems.

The systems I have the monitors on are very predictable. I really only check them once in the morning before the sun comes up to see how much was used overnight and then maybe once or twice on cloudy days to see if they have replaced what was used. As much as I have logging turned on, it's not something I look at. I also have pretty much everything else on factory settings. Even though the bluetooth fails from time to time it's only about 20 or 30 steps to each of the three units so wifi really isn't worth replacing these units for in my case. I suppose that's also why the freezing issue isn't a big issue for me, however it would be nice if there was a fix.

 

[Sonne]

For those that have the KM-F units, does your display show the correct time zone? Mine don't. But I never went into the display menu to see if there is a time zone setting there. I just used the app to set things up and there is no setting in there for time zone (that I could find). My phone does sync the time, just off by like 6 hours.

You can easily change the time zone setting using the “set” button on RHS of the display and then it’s item 1 in the menu. Upon checking I realised mine was set wrong, so I changed it from UTC+0 to UTC+1 and after that the whole display appears to reboot and the wifi symbol showed red for a while (I thought I’d broken it ), until it picked up the wifi and then displayed the correct time.

 

[Texas-Mark]

The second one I ordered was taking longer than the first and third one I ordered as it was stuck at "Arrived at linehaul office" for a few weeks. However yesterday it changed to "Failed to clear at import customs. Package confiscated by customs due to safety reasons".

Well, it actually showed up today and does not appear to have been opened or anything. I have read that some of this stuff comes on a pallet and the whole pallet my get held up by customs for whatever reason until they sort it all out. In any case setup went as easy as the others. I did set the time zone on this one before using the app to finish setting it up as usual.

You can fit four units on the "quick view" screen of the app without scrolling. I don't think there is a limit to how many you can have. You can also put them in groups if you have a lot.

 

[tommix]

Ok i have to put my 2 cents here... was reading 3 pages about stupid crap like WiFi version... YOu people really that lazy? :D DIY foruma dn you cant make wifi version yourself?? it takes few minutes.
There is ESPHome version that can be written to esp32 module [for example WeMos D1 mini] , connected to LINK port and all data will be available in local network. Here is code i put into github https://github.com/Tommixoft/esphome-junctek_kgf
I use this to integrate my JunkTech into homeassistant. You can in ESPHome config file tell to make that device itself has a http server ( by adding

web_server:
port: 80

)
so you can visit device ip address and see data there if you dont have home assistant.
If you want this data to be available from outide - use VPN server in your home network,and vpn client on your phone or computer, it's basic stuff.
If you have static ip you just can make changes in your router to expose device port to outside so you could connect directly to it fron amywhere.
Also basic networking stuff.
So you dont need any NEW versions. Old version always was possible to be wifi, i have it as a wifi for a year now. all you need is cheap 3-5$ esp32, rj9 cable and power to power up ESP32.
This code is great because you cna use monitor and this module at the same time. If you dont have monitor you can use git's nomonitor branch.

 

[Texas-Mark]

YOu people really that lazy? :D DIY foruma dn you cant make wifi version yourself?? it takes few minutes.

LOL

Old version always was possible to be wifi, i have it as a wifi for a year now.

Well, good for you. People are free to do things however they want. I prefer to do it this way. <shrug>

If someone is looking to get a new meter, it makes zero sense to not get the one that already has wifi instead of kludging the old one.

 

[Al Simerz]

If someone is looking to get a new meter, it makes zero sense to not get the one that already has wifi instead of kludging the old one.

You're right. I'm trying to talk my dad into buying one of mine just so i can buy a wifi version and be really lazy.

 

[tommix]

LOL



Well, good for you. People are free to do things however they want. I prefer to do it this way. <shrug>

If someone is looking to get a new meter, it makes zero sense to not get the one that already has wifi instead of kludging the old one.

Yeah LOL yourself... buying anything internet connected from china is DUMB. Building yourself-is smart. so who's LOL'ing right now? Zero sense is to be signed into DIY forum and be unable to make anything.

 

[Skypower]

I may have a solve for the Junctec freeze problem. Wire it up for “External power supply wiring”(3W switch). The wires can still be wired to the battery that it’s measuring as long as the voltage input is in range specified. Mine would freeze once a month or so. Since I made the change, so far so good.

 

[Texas-Mark]

Yeah LOL yourself... buying anything internet connected from china is DUMB.

It’s just a monitor. Fail to see the risk.

Zero sense is to be signed into DIY forum and be unable to make anything.

LOL again. I’ve probably been DIYing things before you were born. Your 4 posts here have been so helpful.

And if you are so good at DIY, why didn’t you build your own shunt/monitor from scratch instead of buying one from China?

 

[Skypower]

I can definitely confirm that wiring is up to the “External power supply wiring”(3W switch) diagram removed the freezing issue. It also made the state of charge incredibly accurate even after several weeks of not reaching full charge reset. Also for some reason the analog graph of voltage and state of charge in the app is no longer wrong. Needle actually right on. Mine is the 500 amp one year old version and quite happy with it.

 

[Sonne]

Have any other KM series monitor users noticed that the Junce Home app will no longer function until you grant the app permission to see your location?

On an iPhone at least , the “approx location” setting is not sufficient to make the app work, it will display an error message until you set the “precise location” setting to give the app permission to see your exact location each time you access the app. This is new, as until now I had location permission switched off and have been using the app without previous problems.

I find it hard to understand any justification for why a battery monitor app requires access to see a user’s precise location in order to operate, and for me this is the first time I’ve discovered a significant disadvantage which would stop me recommending the product. I hope it is a “glitch” which gets fixed in an app update soon.

 

[Texas-Mark]

I find it hard to understand any justification for why a battery monitor app requires access to see a user’s precise location in order to operate,

Perhaps it relates a bit to how Android needs it on for BT to work (i.e. code functions kept relatively the same).

and for me this is the first time I’ve discovered a significant disadvantage which would stop me recommending the product.

Why? Since you can use the app anywhere, your phone's location (vice system location) is not really helpful to anyone. If I turned off precise location for every app I have, nothing would work properly. Especially when I am on wifi. I have AT&T 'internet air" and it thinks I'm in Chicago when I'm actually in Texas (that's a rant for another day).

 

[Horsefly]

I find it hard to understand any justification for why a battery monitor app requires access to see a user’s precise location in order to operate,

@Texas-Mark was correct. Here's a bit more detail. All apps that use BLE (Bluetooth Low Energy) require location services to be exposed, both on Android and on iPhone. I used to know the specifics, but I know it is not any scam or spyware. It's just how it works. This applies to everything else we do that uses BLE, such as all BMS devices (that use Bluetooth), and all Victron devices that communicate to the Victron Connect app via Bluetooth.

 

[SomethingAppropriate]

Perhaps it relates a bit to how Android needs it on for BT to work (i.e. code functions kept relatively the same).



Why? Since you can use the app anywhere, your phone's location (vice system location) is not really helpful to anyone. If I turned off precise location for every app I have, nothing would work properly. Especially when I am on wifi. I have AT&T 'internet air" and it thinks I'm in Chicago when I'm actually in Texas (that's a rant for another day).

Would the police think your in Chicago? No? Then why would this app?

 

[Texas-Mark]

Would the police think your in Chicago? No? Then why would this app?

Huh? The IP address that AT&T doles out for me (from the cell tower a mile away) has a Chicago geolocation. That causes issues with apps that think I'm there (if I don't have precise location on).

I use this app because it works great and I'm not paranoid.

 

[SomethingAppropriate]

Huh? The IP address that AT&T doles out for me (from the cell tower a mile away) has a Chicago geolocation. That causes issues with apps that think I'm there (if I don't have precise location on).

I use this app because it works great and I'm not paranoid.

What about cell tower triangulation?
How do we know that isn't included in the apps request?

I understand. I'm not paranoid either.