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diy solar

Juntek 200A smart shunt counts negative amp-hours after reaching 100%SOC

It’s pretty easy to re-program the shunt to connect to a different display. Easiest is to plug the new display into the shunt usb and the go to the ADR menu option.
 
It’s pretty easy to re-program the shunt to connect to a different display. Easiest is to plug the new display into the shunt usb and the go to the ADR menu option.

That does not seem to work because of the different letter prefix assigned. For example the one shunt (not display) is set for A20. If I connect my other display that was originally set for K01, I can cycle all the way through to K99 and it never connects. Maybe I am missing something, but I don't see a way to get them to 'pair' when that letter is different. i don't see a way to change the letter.

I'll have to look at the hidden menu later.
 
Ok, it may work (mixing shunts) after all. I think the key is to only have one shunt powered up at a time and "pair" them. Then power that pair off off and do the other one. I was able to get one display to "pair" to the other shunt. But if both shunts are powered up, it gets all sort of crazy when trying to set the address. It's too hot out there in my shed right now, but I will try again in the morning.
 
FYI, I responded to the above since I have one of the ones that don't work right. Got a quick reply and a tracking number. Just will have to wait until it gets here to check it. Seems the complaints did work.
 
FYI, I responded to the above since I have one of the ones that don't work right. Got a quick reply and a tracking number. Just will have to wait until it gets here to check it. Seems the complaints did work.

I noticed the post regarding getting a replacement is no longer here. Not sure why. I did receive a replacement the other day. It was the shunt part, not the display part. There is quite a bit of electronics in the shunt part, but I assumed that was mainly for the wireless/usb. I sent them an e-mail asking to confirm the shunt was causing the problem, but have not received a reply yet. Not sure when I will get a chance to try it since I don't really need it at this point.

Anyone know why that one post from Juntek was removed?
 
I noticed the post regarding getting a replacement is no longer here. Not sure why. I did receive a replacement the other day. It was the shunt part, not the display part. There is quite a bit of electronics in the shunt part, but I assumed that was mainly for the wireless/usb. I sent them an e-mail asking to confirm the shunt was causing the problem, but have not received a reply yet. Not sure when I will get a chance to try it since I don't really need it at this point.

Anyone know why that one post from Juntek was removed?
The display is just displayed
All measurements and calculations are in the measurement module with a splitter unit
You can replace the outstanding measurement module using the measurement module you receive.
This will restore normal
 
Compared with VAT1200, KG140F has a great improvement in computing capacity
First, the capacity is increased during charging. The full charge voltage and full charge current can be set. When these two conditions are met, the SOC will be automatically calibrated to 100%, and the remaining capacity will not continue to increase
It is convenient in practical use;
 
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We put the KG140F through it's paces in this review:

On the whole I quite like the KG140F. I had both Victron and KG140F installed and over a week of touring I used them both quite extensively.
Because we use quite a bit of power I like to know the real SOC at any one time.
In this review I looked mainly at the KG140F, comparing it side-by-side with the Victron Smartshunt and also checked what my Daly 200A Smart BMS was telling me.

I quite liked the HUD, I sometimes used the app on my iPhone but TBH most of the time I just want to glance over and check the display.
But to make it really useful the KG140F could do with this important improvement to the heads-up-display (to the content on the HUD):
1. The Volts and Current Amps are the biggest and boldest. This is a waste of real estate.
2. I want these two items to use the most real estate and to be big and bold so I can glance over from where I'm sitting:
a) AH consumed
b) SOC
3. The HUD shows AH remaining, that's OK-ish but I prefer Ah consumed
4. Why not show both AH remaining and AH consumed, in fact I'd like the HUD to show these 4 figures nice and bold:
a) AH Consumed
b) AH Remaining
c) SOC
d) Current Amps being drawn
5. Remove the bling (those fancy dials don't do anything for me)
6. Don't waste space with really irrelevant stuff like internal resistance (put that on an "other" tab)

In terms of installing the unit:
1. Why not make the HUD wireless so it can easily be mounted anywhere?
2. If they can't make the HUD wireless, provide a longer cable than the puny 3m one supplied
3. Put the plug socket on the HUD on the side, not the back
4. The shunt itself had some after-thought mounts added which have a lot to be desired (Victron is miles better)
 
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