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diy solar

Kreg pocket hole jigs

Do you have one?


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John Frum

Tell me your problems
Joined
Nov 30, 2019
Messages
15,233
Not strictly solar related but definitely nerd crack.
Do you have one?
I wish I'd invented that.
IMO Its a grandslam home run brilliant idea and will get people to buy from the rest of their line.
 
Yes, I have used them, and they work great... IF you have properly jointed corners... perfect 90’s are critical for strength...

Otherwise, expect cracked corners...
 
I tried to use them on my camper with 1/2 Baltic Birch plywood. I have not been able to use it on the edge of a board as I got some bulging on the plywood that I was screwing in to. Connecting in to the middle of the board works great. If anyone has any suggestions on how to get rid of the bulging on the edge of plywood I would appreciate it.
 
Loved the jig enough to spring for the Foreman:
Love it...once set up, it's a cinch, about 3 seconds per hole. Use it mostly for outdoor redwood construction.
 
I have one of their kits. Bought it about 15 years ago. I've used it on my RV trailer even. There was a situation where I didn't have access to drill/screw into some of the roof framing from the end. So I pocket holed it.

20200419_145803.jpg

I've used the jig on hardwood, plywood, combination of both, butt joints, 90° joints. It all works pretty good. Buying their screws gets quite expensive. There are alternatives available, you have to know the exact lengths.
 
I used the Pocket Screw jigs to make all of my kitchen cabinetry, battery boxes and more with 3/4" Purebond Ply. Certainly makes a big difference using the jig and like their docs say, make a "First Project" to get the hang of it and sure enough after you've conquered 20 or so screws, you'll have it down pat. I've found many uses for the pocket screws but then I like working with wood.

IF anyone is interested: Here are the base Kitchen Cabinet Designs I used to make all my cabinetry (there is not one tiny piece of particle board or melamine in my home, only wood). https://www.ana-white.com/woodworking-projects/categories/kitchen-cabinet-plans

One thing I can certainly say, Kreg Tools are "Good Stuff" not only for useability but for the quality, top notch stuff.

Here's my 280AH Battery Box design with pocket screws.
280AH-Battery_Box.jpg
 
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Best tool. I use my miter saw as the ends want to be clean 90. I agree not so good on 1/2 plywood. 3/4 works fine. I use 1x2 clear pine to build frame work and enclose with 1/8 ply or aluminum. Or, I dress out with knotty pine. I recommend their clamps for holding corners together.
 
The picture I posted above was the in-progress photo and it was quite ratty. Here's the finished product.

20200511_180232.jpg

What prompted this "little" project was a leak in the roof. It caused both sides of the trailer to delaminate (fixed last year) and the ceiling in the bathroom went bad. During Covid I got bored and tore out the entire ceiling of the room. The "fix" was more than just a new ceiling. I greatly upgraded the insulation in the roof, shored up the crossbeams holding up the roof, improved/replaced the ceiling structure, fixed a crushed air conditioning duct, replaced the wallpaper around the shower with FRP panel, added a four gang wall switch to control individual lights and the exhaust fan and replaced all the baseboard molding. It was a bigger project than I had expected, but the results are very good.
 
I tried to use them on my camper with 1/2 Baltic Birch plywood. I have not been able to use it on the edge of a board as I got some bulging on the plywood that I was screwing in to. Connecting in to the middle of the board works great. If anyone has any suggestions on how to get rid of the bulging on the edge of plywood I would appreciate it.
Ya pocket screws are best for solid wood. They do work in 3/4", but even then I am not a huge fan. There is special hardware made for edge connecting sheet goods, but it takes special jigs to machine the holes.


Edge bonding plywood is tough no matter how you do it. For permanent applications, I like to use solid wood cleats inside the corners (panels are glued and screwed into the cleats). That way you aren't depending on the screws holding in the plywood. And glue on the edge of plywood has very little strength.

If you need to be able to disassemble, I use a piece of metal angle over the outside of each corner with T-nuts installed in the plywood. Not pretty, but easy to take apart and lasts forever.

 
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