• Have you tried out dark mode?! Scroll to the bottom of any page to find a sun or moon icon to turn dark mode on or off!

diy solar

diy solar

Lesson Learned: Solar Carport Foundation and Jhook Size/Location

Will Prowse

Will Prowse

Forum Founder
Staff member
Moderator
Joined
Sep 19, 2019
Messages
6,405
Location
36° N 116° W

What I learned:
  • More space from the edge for J hooks. Or it will crack the concrete.
  • Use largest size anchor bolt possible
  • Mount these things into ground level foundation.
  • Do not trust the engineers or inspector. Make it bigger!
Also had this comment. Really smart idea! Add more epoxied bolts on the mounting plate:
FireShot Capture 618 - 10kW Solar Carport Major Structural Issue_ My Viewers Were Right! -_ - ...png
 
Last edited:
Will Prowse said:

What I learned:
  • More space from the edge for J hooks
  • Use largest size anchor bolt possible
  • My foundation is now 2 foot by 2 foot by 4 foot deep and is plenty. Use lots of rebar.
  • Do not trust the engineers or inspector. Make it bigger!
  • Cables are your friend. This structure does not move at all in high winds. It is incredibly strong now!
Also had this comment. Really smart idea! Add more epoxied bolts on the mounting plate:
View attachment 334907
Click to expand...
I was surprised the video just showed up while we were watching YouTube looking for something to tune into.The wife and I really enjoyed it. Just goes to show you shouldn’t listen to the so-called experts and professional contractors all the time.

You mentioned a tiny home in your prior video. Is the red container house a tiny home? Looks like you were pouring concrete behind the carport, and you had I think carpet on the cement behind the carport. Will there be a walk-through video of what you’re doing there?

Thanks for all you do.
 
davros said:
So obviously inadequate, not much of a contractor at all. I would have upsized that aircraft cable+ turnbuckle as well.
Click to expand...
I’ve done a few projects with that stainless cabling and turnbuckles in the last year. They are a royal pain in the butt.
 
"

"@berthaduniverse​

5 minutes ago
I was one who commented earlier (at a minimum, those bolts needed to be 2-3" from the edge). I'll comment again, fractured concrete is worthless, those piers need to be entirely recast, with appropriate rebar and you should be using standoff bolts instead of flat to the pier. As far as the steel cable ties, the aluminum crimps are a common failure point, at the very least, you should be using 2 per crimp location."

Sadly, I agree with this view...once the structural integrity of existing concrete is compromised, it makes more sense to hammer it out and begin again.

WRT stand-off baseplates:
 
Last edited:
fuzzmunky415 said:
"

"@berthaduniverse​

5 minutes ago
I was one who commented earlier (at a minimum, those bolts needed to be 2-3" from the edge). I'll comment again, fractured concrete is worthless, those piers need to be entirely recast, with appropriate rebar and you should be using standoff bolts instead of flat to the pier. As far as the steel cable ties, the aluminum crimps are a common failure point, at the very least, you should be using 2 per crimp location."

Sadly, I agree with this view...once the structural integrity of existing concrete is compromised, it makes more sense to hammer it out and begin again.

WRT stand-off baseplates:
Click to expand...
I agree, the original compromised j-hooks are still in compromise concrete.

Only option I see other then taking all the concrete out and starting over is making new steel feet bigger to catch the new concrete.
 
I was looking at getting a Maximo and the cost of the foundation plus the limited clearance between the 18" pillars was what stopped it for me - especially the clearance issue since that just can't be ignored. Chiko really needs to find a way to spread out these support beams a bit if you want to actually fit a full size car between them (I have a 90 deg turn into my driveway). No worse than a parking garage I guess, but I don't like parking in tight spaces already. It is a non-issue if you want to use them to cover a patio or something where the spacing doesn't matter so much.

It is amazing just how much structure you need compared to a garage for wind+snow.
 
I missed the OG vid..was there a reason these piers were set so high above grade? I assume panel clearances/shading may have played a role. I think that singular workaround started a cascading series of issues that a normal installation wouldn't encounter. The best leverage for what is inevitably a sail, is firm anchor to the ground, and as many 'anchors' as is practical (for example the new cabling represents additional anchorage). How deep were these piers buried below grade?
 
fuzzmunky415 said:
I missed the OG vid..was there a reason these piers were set so high above grade? I assume panel clearances/shading may have played a role. I think that singular workaround started a cascading series of issues that a normal installation wouldn't encounter. The best leverage for what is inevitably a sail, is firm anchor to the ground, and as many 'anchors' as is practical (for example the new cabling represents additional anchorage). How deep were these piers buried below grade?
Click to expand...
I’m just guessing here, but I think he has a variety of other panels and outbuildings and structures so the higher up he could get them the better.
 
fuzzmunky415 said:
I missed the OG vid..was there a reason these piers were set so high above grade? I assume panel clearances/shading may have played a role. I think that singular workaround started a cascading series of issues that a normal installation wouldn't encounter. The best leverage for what is inevitably a sail, is firm anchor to the ground, and as many 'anchors' as is practical (for example the new cabling represents additional anchorage). How deep were these piers buried below grade?
Click to expand...
For shadows, exactly. I think 2X2 by 3 deep if I remember correctly. We have pictures and documents on type of concrete and all that. I am contacting Chiko today. They told us to use this size.
 
rich0 said:
I was looking at getting a Maximo and the cost of the foundation plus the limited clearance between the 18" pillars was what stopped it for me - especially the clearance issue since that just can't be ignored. Chiko really needs to find a way to spread out these support beams a bit if you want to actually fit a full size car between them (I have a 90 deg turn into my driveway). No worse than a parking garage I guess, but I don't like parking in tight spaces already. It is a non-issue if you want to use them to cover a patio or something where the spacing doesn't matter so much.

It is amazing just how much structure you need compared to a garage for wind+snow.
Click to expand...
Good points
 
Will Prowse said:
We have pictures and documents
Click to expand...
Typically those docs are the specs to follow, so I guess the additional above-grade pier height is what drew their interest to come out and inspect themselves? I would have considered altering the metal posts (extensions) before going so high on those piers, even with reinforced concrete.
 
You keep mentioning "engineering" and "engineers". Were those engineering documents provided by Chiko? If so, how revised were they by your local PE?

The Maximo is nowhere near what you show. The footers were 18" diameter columns leading down into 5' x 5' x 1' spread footers (smallest spec), buried 12" - 18" below grade. The anchor bolts in the engineering documents aren't J-bolts, but 1" diameter, 24" long galvanized steel (Hex Head ASTM F 1554 GR. 36 1, hef = 21.000 in). I ended up with Grade 105 because that is what was in stock. They are buried 21" deep in the concrete, followed by matching nuts and washers to create a base, then the base plate, then washers and nuts to tighten.

These aren't flush to the concrete pillars because the specs call for a standing plate which, last step, is to fill in with structural, non-shrink grout. The underneath nuts are used to make adjustments to the columns for level and plumb.

And, yes, that sort of squeezes down the space between the posts. Phenomenal cosmic solar power; itty, bitty, parking space!

Chiko Foundations.jpg


Chiko Footer.jpg
 
@Will Prowse
Is this what you have?
The instructions are not very good as far as footers go, at least to me anyways.
Says nothing about spacing it off the concrete.
 
chill633 said:
You keep mentioning "engineering" and "engineers". Were those engineering documents provided by Chiko? If so, how revised were they by your local PE?

The Maximo is nowhere near what you show. The footers were 18" diameter columns leading down into 5' x 5' x 1' spread footers (smallest spec), buried 12" - 18" below grade. The anchor bolts in the engineering documents aren't J-bolts, but 1" diameter, 24" long galvanized steel (Hex Head ASTM F 1554 GR. 36 1, hef = 21.000 in). I ended up with Grade 105 because that is what was in stock. They are buried 21" deep in the concrete, followed by matching nuts and washers to create a base, then the base plate, then washers and nuts to tighten.

These aren't flush to the concrete pillars because the specs call for a standing plate which, last step, is to fill in with structural, non-shrink grout. The underneath nuts are used to make adjustments to the columns for level and plumb.

And, yes, that sort of squeezes down the space between the posts. Phenomenal cosmic solar power; itty, bitty, parking space!

View attachment 334968


View attachment 334971
Click to expand...
Whoa!!! And that one is super heavy. Holy cow. Those are bigger than mine though.

Yes the Chiko ones. I literally left it up to them all like an idiot. We had a phone call, and they told my contractor exactly what to do, and my contractor who works for the city has an engineer, and they drafted it all up. I have no clue what concrete they used or thickness of rebar or anything. I emailed chiko about this already and sent them the video. Those are the engineers I am talking about in the video.

When I posted the video, I showed the contractor the comments, and he said not to worry at all and that they dont know what they are talking about. I trusted them. I am ignorant about concrete.
 
I have two contractors coming tomorrow morning and I will have a plan ready soon. I actually thought of a really good idea. Imagine 3 or 4 foot 5/8 bolts epoxied in. Then weld a plate on top. Drill out the old stuff.

Most of the anchors are fine, actually. So it wouldn't take much work.

But I have no clue what I am talking about. I am asking everyone first.
 
chill633 said:
You keep mentioning "engineering" and "engineers". Were those engineering documents provided by Chiko? If so, how revised were they by your local PE?

The Maximo is nowhere near what you show. The footers were 18" diameter columns leading down into 5' x 5' x 1' spread footers (smallest spec), buried 12" - 18" below grade. The anchor bolts in the engineering documents aren't J-bolts, but 1" diameter, 24" long galvanized steel (Hex Head ASTM F 1554 GR. 36 1, hef = 21.000 in). I ended up with Grade 105 because that is what was in stock. They are buried 21" deep in the concrete, followed by matching nuts and washers to create a base, then the base plate, then washers and nuts to tighten.

These aren't flush to the concrete pillars because the specs call for a standing plate which, last step, is to fill in with structural, non-shrink grout. The underneath nuts are used to make adjustments to the columns for level and plumb.

And, yes, that sort of squeezes down the space between the posts. Phenomenal cosmic solar power; itty, bitty, parking space!

View attachment 334968


View attachment 334971
Click to expand...
Dang that looks awesome
 
I'm not an engineer just to be clear.
But one other thing might be a concern is water intrusion. If that original pier is cracked it'll probably let water in and sit potentially getting to the rebar.
Sealing it up might be an option?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

diy solar

diy solar
Back
Top