Do you want to come out? Where are you located. Let's have you talk with Chiko on the phone today and the contractor. What's your schedule like?
Lesson Learned: Solar Carport Foundation and Jhook Size/Location
- Thread starter Will Prowse
- Start date
If anyone wants to drive out to Vegas let me know. Let's make this happen. Let's see everyone's solution. Or if you guys want me to pay you to take it down. All the other contractors are busy, help me out here. Who's up for it?
fuzzmunky415
Solar Wizard
BigGun will be of more use to you than I would, even chill663, who knows and followed the Chiko docs would be more use than I. I'm just concerned 1) that this install appears (I don't know) to have superceded the existing docs/engineering by raising it's height, 2) High strength was ordered, delivered. But I like BigGun's approach.BigGun
Solar Enthusiast
BigGun is an Old Man 
I have a hard enough time finishing my own Crap
I have a hard enough time finishing my own Crapfuzzmunky415
Solar Wizard
Fiber gummies my man...
42OhmsPA
Who likes Electrical Gremlins?
Wish I weren't on the E coast and beyond busy with work.
Made in USA and company mentioned many times here for their ground mounts (me included).. shows their car port solar mounts and how they should be done:
www.sinclair-designs.com
Solar Carport Systems
www.sinclair-designs.com
fatjay
What's the worst that can happen?
Uh... A j-hook can't "pull out". There's no amount of glue that can hold a strait rod through in concrete. I would at minimum want to use concrete anchors if the holes were drilled. If you don't have a J hook, you can use washer/bolt at the bottom of a rod. Something to prevent the bolt from ever being removed from the concrete.
Also curious how those concrete piers are anchored to the driveway.
Also curious how those concrete piers are anchored to the driveway.
chill633
Solar Wizard
Chiko's specs for concrete for the Maximo is 4,000 psi. My local engineer that I had review and stamp in WV explained that the concrete is there for mass. It is there to provide enough counterweight in the event of a strong wind uplift.
The rebar cage provides the twisting and tensile strength to the concrete. The anchor bolts provide the attachment for the structure to the mass.
Reading through the engineering documents from Chiko shows a lot of emphasis on rigidity and thickness of the base plate. Because the Maximo documents are to California spec, there's a big focus on seismic stability, twisting, and shaking.
Take that for what you will. If it were me, I would get everything in writing for what they're going to do. If something breaks down the road, then go after their insurance and make him do it all over again.
The rebar cage provides the twisting and tensile strength to the concrete. The anchor bolts provide the attachment for the structure to the mass.
Reading through the engineering documents from Chiko shows a lot of emphasis on rigidity and thickness of the base plate. Because the Maximo documents are to California spec, there's a big focus on seismic stability, twisting, and shaking.
Take that for what you will. If it were me, I would get everything in writing for what they're going to do. If something breaks down the road, then go after their insurance and make him do it all over again.
fuzzmunky415
Solar Wizard
Great vid! Also in my YT queue after that was this:Made in USA and company mentioned many times here for their ground mounts (me included).. shows their car port solar mounts and how they should be done:
Solar Carport Systems
chill633
Solar Wizard
Actually referenced this video during my construction phase with the carport.
Literally had my contractors watching it for tips. There are differences between and the Maximo. But much of what he shows here is excellent information. This video very much deserves a cash donation.
BigGun
Solar Enthusiast
After hurricane Katrina building codes got crazy, all kinds of anchors. One the methods to anchor corners was a special epoxy with a threaded rod. I was totally surprised , there was no coming out after it dried. We did a test with a 20 ton hydraulic jack. The bolt sheared off, granted a threaded rod isn't as strong a J Bolt ( I've never done this test with a J Bolt. Lots of times unless concrete is Vibrated, you'll have voids around forms, anchors, Etc
Might have to rip this one out and put this one in insteadMade in USA and company mentioned many times here for their ground mounts (me included).. shows their car port solar mounts and how they should be done:
Solar Carport Systems
Yeah, that's what I just said.
No, epoxy is better.
Oh God I would never do that
that's terrifying. Better to use j hook and have it wrapped into the rebarrich0
New Member
I find it kinda crazy that you'd do engineering for Will of all people and not make sure everything is 100% right and conservative. You know that any mistake is going to end up all over YouTube. It isn't like there is an army of influencers promoting solar carports - if you google it you're going to get his videos.
Then when there is a problem, you'd think you'd send in the A-team of engineers to do a full assessment like you're building a skyscraper, just so that you KNOW it is all clean. This is their reputation...
You would think so!!
These kinds of mistakes happen nearly every time with the battery companies also. It's mind-boggling. I don't even understand how this many mistakes can happen. Real mistakes. And they know it's all going to be on camera for everyone to see. It blows my mind!doing it different
Solar Enthusiast
Here in the north, outdoor concrete needs to have air added for freezing and always use fiber, its such a game changer.
Why couldn't the posts have been longer? Less concrete sticking out of the ground,= more room around it, etc.
Why couldn't the posts have been longer? Less concrete sticking out of the ground,= more room around it, etc.
outboard1196
I go victron victron victron, I'm a victron guy.
I guess Will isn't famous outside of this forum lol
jeeptj12
Noob
I used to work on cantilever sign structures back in the day. We replaced a lot of old rusted anchor bolts. Like I said, when we used the Hilti anchors and epoxied them, we had to use two anchors to match the shear, tension, and pull-out of the one replacement anchor bolt that was tied to the rebar cage. I'm sure Hilti has developed better products but I doubt they have reached a 1 to 1 replacement. Epoxy just never reached that equivalent strength.
Is there really any kind of major uplift in the space of this installation? It seems pretty contained and surrounded by other large structures.
The high side on my install faces my house so the uplift forces are lower than if it was in a field. I have trees to the south and East. The West is an open field.
The high side on my install faces my house so the uplift forces are lower than if it was in a field. I have trees to the south and East. The West is an open field.
fuzzmunky415
Solar Wizard
I think the engineer can't know if that house/tree/screens next door will remain in place, so needs to design for it sitting out in that field. But yeah, practically speaking, surrounding structures significantly impact the true forces in situ.
BTW, this install looks great! Was it inspected? How thick is that slab, etc.?
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fuzzmunky415
Solar Wizard
Which I've discovered (thanks to this thread) is another rabbit hole. Sakrete says High strength is 'your' 4000 psi. Interwebs generally say 6000+ psi, my neighbor had a driveway pour with 'high strength' that was 5000 psi from ready-mix truck.
High-Strength Concrete Mix
The original bagged concrete mix, trusted by pros since 1936. This professional-grade mix delivers consistent performance, high strength and a smooth finish that makes it ideal for every concrete project from slabs to footings and everything in between.
www.sakrete.com
Totally agree! The 'mass' doesn't need the high strength...the additional height, imo, has made the above-grade pier a 'connector' to the base, and likely (I'm no engineer) should require high strength concrete, as we've already suffered fracture with no obvious causation, just normal flex. The existing driveway slab likely has a high strength rating, but it would need to be determined how thick that slab is, whether it's worth 'tapping into' when re-pouring a deeper base, since it is quite massive in it own right (and has rebar, etc.). But BigGun has the tact I'd persue, Install steel posts into concrete mass (base) and attach structure to those posts.
I think it's worth showing Chiko's engineers these vids, and allow them to draw up fresh plans specific to Will's sitch, and have the contractor follow the new plan exactly. Although I admit the Sinclair units look extremely desirable, and if I had Will's resources...
Bluedog225
Solar Wizard
I remember the original thread. We gently expressed concern because it was a fait accompli.
Funny thing. I did the same thing to my builder when I was younger. He pointed something out and I said “Let’s just trust the engineer.”
Cost me a lot of money and much delay.
Sorry. Hope the solution works for you.
Funny thing. I did the same thing to my builder when I was younger. He pointed something out and I said “Let’s just trust the engineer.”
Cost me a lot of money and much delay.
Sorry. Hope the solution works for you.
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doing it different
Solar Enthusiast
And what people don't realise, don't thin out the concrete, water makes it weaker. The slump from the plant is what its rated at. Any extra water makes it weaker. Piers it really doesn't matter but for leveling floors often will add water for workabilityAwesome.
Use fiber and rebar in the next concrete pour.