Configuring a system "on paper" and just want to make sure I'm correctly understanding how all the components and numbers work together.
(2) 12V/200aH LiFePO4 batteries in series for a 24V/200aH system, handles 4800 watt hours?
(6) 320W/24V solar panels. Wired in parallel because they're already at 24V
EPEVER 80A MPPT Solar Charge Controller 12V/24V/36V/48V DC. The 1920W from the panels divided by 24V system tells me 80A is the proper rating?
Power Bright ML2300-24 2300 Watt 24 Volt DC To 110 Volt AC Power Inverter
As mentioned before I had looked at the LV2424 all-in-one, but wanted to look at this from a standpoint of individual components, as this would give me a better understanding of how and why everything in the solar system works the way it does...
Your off to a fair start but lets do this a tad differently to save you hassle & cash. Most folks like that.
1) Build a single 24V/8S 200AH / 5120Wh or 5.12kWh pack. This requires only One 8S BMS, and One Fuse (200A). If you are setting up a 24V based system then Build a 24V Battery, don't put two 12V in series unless you have no choice (like buying rebuilt dropins)
2) The EPEver is a Good Quality Value brand and pretty flexible, there are several models, It may be more prudent to go with the 100A Model because a 200AH Battery can take 100A Charge and if you add another in Parallel for more Amp Hours the two battery packs will divide the charge and virtually everyone grows their system at least Once but usually more... Happens ALL the time, so this is a bit of future-proofing.
3) SOLAR PANELS. Forget 12V panels they are 3x more expensive because they are NICHE. the "24V" Panels are always higher voltage and best bang per buck. See the Three Examples below. Panels placed in Series increase Voltage while panels in Parallel increase Wattage, so string configuration is essential to get the most out of the panels.
4) Powerbright Inverter, this is a mid-low quality "Value" product. Coin Toss, efficiency, longevity and other things to consider. Are you going to "depend" on this system or is it something that's just a hobby ? Depends on use and how necessary (dependable) you need. AIO's do make it a LOT simpler and saves on many ancillary bits like breakers, fuses, wiring etc... BUT there are drawbacks, like higher standby power consumption and such. Also whether or not you want a High Frequency MOSFET Based Inverter/Charger or a Low Frequency Transformer base.
Solar Input -> SCC -> Batt.
I run 24V, my solar input can be 200VDC and 2100W on a sunny day and the SCC turns that into 80A @ 27.5V (bulk charge rate). If I wanted to do that with 12V/200W panels it would take a lot more panels at a much higher cost and less efficient. A GOTCHA ! Shading can really mess stuff up ! If you have 4 panels in a string series and one panel gets shaded that entire string takes a hit ! So the layout and setup is really important to
prevent reduce that.
Hope it helps, Good Luck.
Canadian Solar 335W mono Solar Panel
Watts (STC) | 335 W |
| |
Max Power Voltage (VMPP) | 37.8 V |
Max Power Current (IMPP) | 9.0 A |
Open Circuit Voltage (VOC) | 44.5 V |
Short Circuit Current (ISC) | 9.57 A |
Max System Voltage | DC 1000 V |
LG NeON 2 340W mono Solar Panel
Watts (STC) | 340 W |
| |
Max Power Voltage (VMPP) | 34.5 V |
Max Power Current (IMPP) | 9.86 A |
Open Circuit Voltage (VOC) | 41.1 V |
Short Circuit Current (ISC) | 10.53 A |
Max System Voltage | DC 1000 V |
Longi 355W mono Solar Panel
Watts (STC) | 355 W |
| |
Max Power Voltage (VMPP) | 33.5 V |
Max Power Current (IMPP) | 10.6 A |
Open Circuit Voltage (VOC) | 40.7 V |
Short Circuit Current (ISC) | 11.1 A |
Max System Voltage | DC 1000 V |