diy solar

diy solar

LG Chem Batteries from Battery Hookup. 5.94 KWh

Cycle count is dependant on how well you treat the batteries, keeping them at a cool temp, staying within load specs makes the batteries last far far longer. I went with them as they are brand new, and at $100 KWH I believe the best deal around. But, you have to do your homework to make it all work. I have a tesla model S module as well, and this has more power than it does, only thing is I can't pull it as hard with my 3000 watt Chinese inverter, so I use the Tesla for heavy duty loads like my table saw, and I use this for long steady loads like de humidifiers, and computers routers and fridge.
 
At last, I built a wifi voltage monitor for these 32 V batteries. Took me a bit to get the voltage divider right but storing the data like a champ! Now I can put on loads based on voltage controlled by the raspberry pi. Woo hoo.
 

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A Wi-Fi voltage monitor?! That's awesome! Please share some details. I'd l love to learn more about this. I have an Arduino, some raspberry pi's, esp32's that I've never really come up with a project that excited me enough to use them. This would be definitely worth it! I've always thought that using MQTT to send info that I can remotely read on my phone with a simple flutter app would be fun.
 
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This is what my Domoticz ( open sourced program ) dash board looks like.


I have a mfi controller that is a wifi power strip I hacked that controls relays for my well pump, I also have an old UPS I modified with a ESP8266 board that runs 3 relays ( I burnt the 4th one out when I tried to use a table saw with it ) silly me. but anyhow it works great. I am now working on hacking a Chinese power strip so I can control indoor loads remotely, I destroyed my first one on my first attempted OUCH, but the second one looks more promising as I learned from my mistakes on soldering small components.


But yes when voltages rise above a certain level on my batteries, the loads automatically kick in. Having the history of logs sure makes it easy to know when the best time to put those loads on so the batteries have enough power to get thru the night.

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A Wi-Fi voltage monitor?! That's awesome! Please share some details. I'd l love to learn more about this. I have an Arduino, some raspberry pi's, esp32's that I've never really come up with a project that excited me enough to use them. This would be definitely worth it! I've always thought that using MQTT to send info that I can remotely read on my phone with a simple flutter app would be fun.


I tried setting up MQTT, but instead I decided to just use HTTP, works like a champ for me.
 
Are you using relays controlled by the raspberry to that?

The Pi is the central control station, it logs everything with the Domoticz program from my sensors and then act according to the rules I have setup.

But also at work are several ESP8266 loaded with "ESPeasy" and I configure them to work in concert.

Mart
 
Thank you so much for all the info! This is so helpful!

P.S. How are the LG Chem battery packs performing now that you've had more time with them?
 
I am still happy I made the purchase. The one battery I have hooked up is running my fridge and this computer with no issues, once I get my power strip flashed with new bios I will then add more loads based upon voltage, On cloudy days I want it to do nothing but minimal loads.

I am looking forward to when the other BMS get here so I can hook up the other batteries.
 
At last I have finished converting this power strip by flashing the esp8266 with sonoff.bin ( Tasmota ) flash rom. Yesterday I was able to get the controls to work from Domoticz.


This video is pretty much what I did to flash this wifi power strip. I destroyed my first one, I am glad I bought two :) but the second one after about 3 days of trial I figured out both what I was doing wrong with soldering, and what was wrong with the instructions for this model. It ran over night with no issues.




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Stumbled upon this yesterday: https://batteryhookup.com/products/new-lg-chem-n2-1-3-7v-120ah-cell-module

Only issue is that I cannot tell what kind of Li-ion batteries they are for DoD purposes. If any one knows please share.
Thank you!

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I actually just ordered these. I believe chemistry wise these are nmc type. They also like to be under some physical pressure(clamped) . David poz did a vid on using 14 for a 48v system.

I bought 14 but for a 24v system. I guess I could parallel 2 modules, but they already have 2 modules in parallel in each pack.

As for longevity, any good options to have a bms have a higher lower limit and a lower higher limit? The standard off the shelf bms has a very high voltage before balance begins.
 
Just put nine of these into the battery pack for an old Ford Ranger EV:
pack removal.PNG

How I managed to fit nine in the space provided
battery pack 1.jpg

Here you can see me drilling holes for the BMS connections, with my specialized Short-Circuit Prevention Barrier
drilling.PNG

I appreciate the discussion on this thread, it helped me make the decision to buy them! There aren't any of this particular kind left. They sold a bunch of 4.75 kW modules but those sold out.
 
I appreciate the discussion on this thread, it helped me make the decision to buy them! There aren't any of this particular kind left. They sold a bunch of 4.75 kW modules but those sold out.


I am very glad that I bought 3 of these modules... These should keep me going for several years until new tech surpasses these.

I have been thinking about what it would take to use 18650's in a Nissan leaf, I have been watching innovators in other countries making their own battery packs with lithium batteries that far surpass the batteries the cars come with. The cars are very well designed, I believe they just need to be upgraded with a new battery pack, so many of the cars are coming on the used car market and are selling for very cheap as the batteries go way down with time.
 
I am very glad that I bought 3 of these modules... These should keep me going for several years until new tech surpasses these.

I have been thinking about what it would take to use 18650's in a Nissan leaf, I have been watching innovators in other countries making their own battery packs with lithium batteries that far surpass the batteries the cars come with. The cars are very well designed, I believe they just need to be upgraded with a new battery pack, so many of the cars are coming on the used car market and are selling for very cheap as the batteries go way down with time.
The time it would take to build 18650 into a pack is a lot more labor intensive. The larger the cells the less connections you need.

One of the LG chem battery packs is 2×60ah. That's about 500whr. Thats less than 10 cents per 1whr, or 100 bucks per kwh, virtually new.
You would need to find 18650s at a price point of less than that. If you can get them free or close to free, there is obviously some savings.
 
I purchased 2 of the 10S 3P and 1 of the 8S 3P LG Chem Chevy Bolt packs from Battery Hookup as the cost per KWH was hard to beat.

All of the cell groups were well within .01 volt when I got them and they do look basically new.

So far I made up a mounting system to hold the packs in a 19 inch equipment rack.
I cut the middle buss bar of the 8S pack to split it into two 4S sections without physically separating the pack.
I made clamp on copper terminals with matching 6mm bolts.
I used #2 cables to wire each 10S pack in series with a 4S section to make two 14S strings.
I have each 14S string connected to a buss bar with 125 amp fuses.
I purchased a JKBMS with 2 amp active balancing and common port 200 amps protection switch.
I soldered wires to each cell junction and joined the 2 strings with fuses to the single BMS.

The JKBMS seems to be working great. It allows you to customize all of the parameters. I currently have the cell over voltage set to turn off at 4.2 volts and turn back on at 4.1 volts. The cell under volt turn off is set to 3.2 and the turn on at 3.3 volts. Full turn off if any cell goes below 3.0 volts.

I have the max charge current at 145 amps. With 6 cells in parallel, that is under 25 amps per cell, or less than 0.5 C rate. The max discharge is topped out at 200 amps, which is still well below the cell capability. It also has an internal temp sensor for the the protection FET's and balance circuits and then 2 remote sensors to mount on the batteries. The battery protection temps are also fully configurable. The battery bank will live in my garage in So Cal so low temperature won't be an issue, but it can exceed 110F here. I plan to extent the temp sensors and mount them where the battery get's the hottest.

I do not have my inverter/charger yet. My current plan is to use a Schneider XW-Pro. I would set it to limit the charge voltage to just 4.1 volts per cell, and the low battery shut down will also be set to about 3.5 volts so the BMS is only a secondary safety. This should stay well away from the BMS having to step in and shut it down. I do not have any load or charger here currently that can stress these batteries. I have pumped about 600 watts in and pulled nearly 1000 watts out and the cells seem rock solid with virtually no voltage dip and they stayed at just room temp. Once my system is up and running, it will mostly be used to do self consumption. Time shifting about 10 kwh from solar production to the 5 pm to 9 pm peak TOU charge time. But I will have my Enphase solar gear and my essential loads connected after the inverter so I will also be able to run most of my home during a power failure. Doing the rough math, I should be able to keep most of my home running off grid with all the sun we get here. Just can't run that A/C compressor.
 

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I purchased 2 of the 10S 3P and 1 of the 8S 3P LG Chem Chevy Bolt packs from Battery Hookup as the cost per KWH was hard to beat.

All of the cell groups were well within .01 volt when I got them and they do look basically new.

So far I made up a mounting system to hold the packs in a 19 inch equipment rack.
I cut the middle buss bar of the 8S pack to split it into two 4S sections without physically separating the pack.
I made clamp on copper terminals with matching 6mm bolts.
I used #2 cables to wire each 10S pack in series with a 4S section to make two 14S strings.
I have each 14S string connected to a buss bar with 125 amp fuses.
I purchased a JKBMS with 2 amp active balancing and common port 200 amps protection switch.
I soldered wires to each cell junction and joined the 2 strings with fuses to the single BMS.

The JKBMS seems to be working great. It allows you to customize all of the parameters. I currently have the cell over voltage set to turn off at 4.2 volts and turn back on at 4.1 volts. The cell under volt turn off is set to 3.2 and the turn on at 3.3 volts. Full turn off if any cell goes below 3.0 volts.

I have the max charge current at 145 amps. With 6 cells in parallel, that is under 25 amps per cell, or less than 0.5 C rate. The max discharge is topped out at 200 amps, which is still well below the cell capability. It also has an internal temp sensor for the the protection FET's and balance circuits and then 2 remote sensors to mount on the batteries. The battery protection temps are also fully configurable. The battery bank will live in my garage in So Cal so low temperature won't be an issue, but it can exceed 110F here. I plan to extent the temp sensors and mount them where the battery get's the hottest.

I do not have my inverter/charger yet. My current plan is to use a Schneider XW-Pro. I would set it to limit the charge voltage to just 4.1 volts per cell, and the low battery shut down will also be set to about 3.5 volts so the BMS is only a secondary safety. This should stay well away from the BMS having to step in and shut it down. I do not have any load or charger here currently that can stress these batteries. I have pumped about 600 watts in and pulled nearly 1000 watts out and the cells seem rock solid with virtually no voltage dip and they stayed at just room temp. Once my system is up and running, it will mostly be used to do self consumption. Time shifting about 10 kwh from solar production to the 5 pm to 9 pm peak TOU charge time. But I will have my Enphase solar gear and my essential loads connected after the inverter so I will also be able to run most of my home during a power failure. Doing the rough math, I should be able to keep most of my home running off grid with all the sun we get here. Just can't run that A/C compressor.
 
JKBMS, can you give a link of where you bought yours? I would like to check it out.

Thanks.
 
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