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Lifepo4 + Hot Van

Harmony5000

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Joined
Feb 8, 2022
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Hi, I have some questions regarding charge/discharge of lifepo4 in hot environments. I’d like to have a better understanding of risks and possible solutions.

Right off the bat does anyone have experience charging/discharging lifepo4 in a van where outdoor temp reaches an average of 80-85f while they are away from the car all doors and windows closed?

Here is the scenario:

Need to charge/discharge 200ah of lifepo4 battery daily in a city environment (L.A.)while I’m away from the vehicle. High daily outdoor temp in summer months (3 months) is steadily 80-85 degrees fahrenheit. Of course there could be days reaching higher or lower but this is about average high temp each day rest of the year seems to be in the 70s. If anyone lives LA let me know if I’m mistaken? I’ll be parked near Venice beach.

From what I understand temperatures in a vehicle parked in direct sunlight under these conditions can reach 130 on days that are 85. 140 if there is something like a 95 degree day. I’m unsure if that is ambient air temp or surface temp (like dashboard/seat). The batteries themselves won’t be in direct sunlight.

Right now my only defense is custom sunshades I’ve built with Reflectix material (sturdy reflective bubble wrap type material) installed on the interior of the windows. They are fit to where absolutely no sunlight comes in. From what I understand this method dramatically lowers surface temperatures but may have little effect on ambient air temperature - the site that gave that report posted a photo with similar material but it was not tightly fit so I have a one up on that. Their report said ambient air temp was only lowered by 1 degree.

Right now I’m choosing my batteries for the project. It seems like trusted manufacturers charging at high temp shuts off at 113 degrees. Reports for cheaper batteries such as zooms, ampertime, chins, 122. Obviously from what I read we can’t trust reports from company’s like those. Also, the bms systems don’t seem to be reliable for low temp cutoff (not a problem in my case) and I’ve seen some reports of low voltage disconnect not working. I will be using 1 battery outside of the van during the day and completely running it out of juice at times so this concerns me. Just the fact that the temperature inside the vehicle may reach 130-140 and if a cheaper batteries bms fails to employ high temp cutoff this concerns me.

Ok so risks/solutions

Risks:

Battery Life- I understand battery life may be shorted in hot environments. This isn’t a concern to me if the batteries can still be used for 1-2 years. Renogy customer service says they can be stored at 149 degrees which might be the very high air temp in the car a few days. In almost all reports I see temperatures like 149 are at the top of surface temp in direct sunlight not ambient air temp.

BMS - if a cheaper battery is chosen and the bms high temp cutoff fails how likely is it that fire, explosion, or fuming could be a thing?

Battery Choice - right now I’m looking at buying 3 units of 100ah SOK on the high end. Weize (low temp cutoff seems to work and high temp cutoff rating is 113f exactly like battleborn and sok maybe I can trust them?) and on the cheaper side zooms, ampertime, chins. Suggestions? Money is extremely tight but safety is most important. I currently do have a 100ah lithium ion battery (not lifepo4) by SmartBattery 6 years old lots of use, should I discard that/not use under these conditions?

Solutions:

I’ve mentioned the reflective shades. Maybe they can lower to 113 but I have no way of testing and that sounds like an iffy bet.

Would installing simple vent/fan to cycle air from the interior to exterior of the van help? I believe I could build some that slot into the driver and passenger window after I park to move air in and out of what I think would be the area of the van most prone to heat build up (windshield).

Insulated battery box, how much would that help if at all I don’t know?

Ac- I don’t believe I have enough AH to run that and meet my charging needs. I had thought of putting a small portable AC and directly aiming it at the batteries but most of those seem to use evaporative moisture so that’s a no go and if they don’t it’s just more power consumption or maybe ineffective (cool breeze?)

At best I’d just like to keep the batteries under the 113 operating range so they can charge all day. At worst I’d like the BMS to safely shut them off and lose some hours of daytime charging. Also are there any recommended fail safes?

Here’s my system 500w renogy solar, 40a mppt renogy charge controller, 200ah battery to be determined, 900watt xantrex inverter connected to 45w 12v fridge and a secondary charger charging the old 100ah lithium ion (SmartBattery brand) if it sounds safe under the circumstances, or new lifepo4 if that’s a better option?

Thanks so much for taking the time with my post!
 
You're on the right track. I've had a lot of experience with high interior van temperatures. I have 400w of solar, a 30A SCC, and two BB batteries in series in a Ford E250 van. If the sun is shining the temperature inside the van will be in the 90's or higher. Cracking the windows will not lower the temperature significantly; everything in the van will be 90 degrees plus. I bought a portable air conditioner unit but it requires a vent for the hot air and an AC connection; it keeps the van cooler. I know it sounds crazy but will the battery fit in the refrigerator? You would have to tape around the wires to keep the cool in; but it might be the easiest way to keep one battery cool in high temperatures with 600W of solar.
 
You're on the right track. I've had a lot of experience with high interior van temperatures. I have 400w of solar, a 30A SCC, and two BB batteries in series in a Ford E250 van. If the sun is shining the temperature inside the van will be in the 90's or higher. Cracking the windows will not lower the temperature significantly; everything in the van will be 90 degrees plus. I bought a portable air conditioner unit but it requires a vent for the hot air and an AC connection; it keeps the van cooler. I know it sounds crazy but will the battery fit in the refrigerator? You would have to tape around the wires to keep the cool in; but it might be the easiest way to keep one battery cool in high temperatures with 600W of solar.
Cool. I’m actually installing a fan to vent right now. You ever install just a fan system? Any idea of how many cfm gets results?

What ac did you buy? Thanks!
 
Two things are reducing the battery temperature significant:

1. An open vent in the ceiling - heat rises - let it outside.
2. Keeping them at the floor - insulated

During night time the temperature goes down - you just want to slow down the heat transfer during the day enough that the batteries don't overheat.
 
Cool. I’m actually installing a fan to vent right now. You ever install just a fan system? Any idea of how many cfm gets results?

What ac did you buy? Thanks!
I bought this AC unit out of desperation: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DQVNSP8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It is big, heavy, and takes up valuable space. It stands up and is designed to use a horizontal window; our van exit doors are push out windows. So, it is difficult to vent. I spent a couple of hot nights in L.A. and the temperature in the van was too hot for me; I don't know about the batteries.
 
You could build a completely enclosed battery box, with a fan powered inlet and a fan outlet to the underside of your vehicle. A simple thermostat would allow the fans to turn on and off and suck in cool(er) air from outside.
 
You could build a completely enclosed battery box, with a fan powered inlet and a fan outlet to the underside of your vehicle. A simple thermostat would allow the fans to turn on and off and suck in cool(er) air from outside.
I hadn’t thought of that. I’m trying to vent the whole van as I’ve got other things that need to be cool. I’m curious if you know how many cubic feet per min a fan would need to push to do that effectively? I have no way to test in the climate I’m in right now. Thanks!
 
I hadn’t thought of that. I’m trying to vent the whole van as I’ve got other things that need to be cool. I’m curious if you know how many cubic feet per min a fan would need to push to do that effectively? I have no way to test in the climate I’m in right now. Thanks!
I would imagine that a couple of decently sized computer fans should do the job for a pack that's not too large. Noctua makes some fans that are, more or less, silent.

My battery box is around 5 cubic feet (guesstimate). I would want the air to be refreshed every 30 seconds at minimum. A little extra wouldn't hurt either. I'd probably go with fans that are individually between 10 and 20+ cubic feet a minute, plus, there would be a fan in both the inlet AND the outlet, which gives you a redundancy, and messes with the pressure, increasing flow.
 
I'm going to experiment with one of these as it gets hotter down here in Baja. Hoping I can hard wire it to a 12 volt panel for daytime only use. If it gives me problems I will run a small battery inline and manually disconnect in the evening. It does cool pretty well from my early battery only connection.
cooling unit..jpg
 
The computer fans by acfinity are super reliable and quiet. I’ve used those for 8 years running almost constantly. 4 of them. And never had a failure.

What I’m really trying to figure out now is how much cfm is required to effectively vent an entire van - no way to test as I’m in a cool climate right now
 
What I’m really trying to figure out now is how much cfm is required to effectively vent an entire van
Calculate cubic feet of van space. Divide by CFM of fans. Result is how many minutes it takes to exchange the total air in the van (all other things equal).
 
Calculate cubic feet of van space. Divide by CFM of fans. Result is how many minutes it takes to exchange the total air in the van (all other things equal).
Right, so have done those calculations. I’m just not sure you know, say if the surface temp of the side of the van is 100 degrees. You know the area of that is instantly heating a certain amount of air.

I can move the cubic feet of my van in 3-4 min. Or install a couple more fans and move it in 1 min.

Just wondering if anyone has done this in practice.

If I’m moving the air in 4 min, surface temp of outside of van is heating x amount of that air within that 4 min idk outside temp might be 85 inside temp 95 or something. Not sure how to calculate this without real testing in a hot environment.
 
It would be pretty easy to set a thermometer inside and see what happens with the fan on and off. Air is not all that great at heat transfer, so replacing it every few minutes seems about good enough to me. The catch is trying to get air that wasn't preheated by got asphalt or something else.
 
temperatures in a vehicle parked in direct sunlight under these conditions can reach 130 on days that are 85.
Some roof vents will open and attempt to pull enough air through to hold a given temp. My maxxfan does this and by default holds 78F as long as it can, increasing fan speed as needed. I usually have it set to 68F.

At some point ambient temps are too high and interior temps rise, but it's still much cooler than without the vent. A passive, screened inlet on the opposite end of the van will help pull air through. Mine is on the back door like this.
 
Some roof vents will open and attempt to pull enough air through to hold a given temp. My maxxfan does this and by default holds 78F as long as it can, increasing fan speed as needed. I usually have it set to 68F.

At some point ambient temps are too high and interior temps rise, but it's still much cooler than without the vent. A passive, screened inlet on the opposite end of the van will help pull air through. Mine is on the back door like this.
That’s cool! How many cfm’s does your fan pull? At what temp does it start to run on full power?

I was thinking of installing my intake vent on the step on the side doors of the van. Puts it about a foot underneath the shade of the van and right by my battery.
 
How many cfm’s does your fan pull?

I don't have a way to test it but the manufacturer claims >900cfm. It's pretty strong.

At what temp does it start to run on full power?

Power gradually ramps up as measured temp rises above the temperature set by the user. Maybe full power by +5F or +10F?
  • This morning it was <68F inside and outside so the fan was off (thermostat = 68F)
  • I made coffee and breakfast in the van and the fan came on at the lowest level (~0.10A).
  • An hour later ambient temps are rising and interior temps was 70F. I'd guess the fan has kicked up from 1/10 to 4/10 (~0.4A).
  • At some point the fan will be running 10/10 (~2.8A) until the sun gets low in the sky.
Note: while I was typing this the fan kicked up another notch to what I guess is 5/10 (0.6A). Interior temp is now 72F.

The interior temp feels the same to me because of the increased airflow. After ambients get high enough to max out the fan it will start to feel warmer inside.
 
Just for reference, most bathroom exhaust fans here in the US are 50 to 80 CFM.
More than that would be quite a breeze in a van, unless your van is the size of a bus.
 
I don't have a way to test it but the manufacturer claims >900cfm. It's pretty strong.



Power gradually ramps up as measured temp rises above the temperature set by the user. Maybe full power by +5F or +10F?
  • This morning it was <68F inside and outside so the fan was off (thermostat = 68F)
  • I made coffee and breakfast in the van and the fan came on at the lowest level (~0.10A).
  • An hour later ambient temps are rising and interior temps was 70F. I'd guess the fan has kicked up from 1/10 to 4/10 (~0.4A).
  • At some point the fan will be running 10/10 (~2.8A) until the sun gets low in the sky.
Note: while I was typing this the fan kicked up another notch to what I guess is 5/10 (0.6A). Interior temp is now 72F.

The interior temp feels the same to me because of the increased airflow. After ambients get high enough to max out the fan it will start to feel warmer inside.
Ya I’m seeing almost all fans built specific for rv van stuff are 900 cfm or so.

Do you know what kind of outdoor temp it is when the fan kicks on 50% and then 100% speed?

Is there any point in the day that your interior temp is rising even though the fan is on 100% how much does the interior temp rise at that point?

Thanks so much for the help!
 
Do you know what kind of outdoor temp it is when the fan kicks on 50% and then 100% speed?

Is there any point in the day that your interior temp is rising even though the fan is on 100% how much does the interior temp rise at that point?


I addressed both these situations above. If you're not going to read it, I'm not going to write it. I'm out.
 
I addressed both these situations above. If you're not going to read it, I'm not going to write it. I'm out.

  • This morning it was <68F inside and outside so the fan was off (thermostat = 68F)”

This is the only time you addressed the exterior temperature. Everything else you mentioned was interior temperature. I need to know how hot it is outside in order to deduce how effective the fan is when it’s running 450-900cfm.

I’m installing multiple silent 150cfm fans. Trying to figure out how many I need for the highs I’ll experience in the environments I’ll be in. This is the reason for my question.
 
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