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link to proper studs and nuts for eve cells?

B

bgflyguy

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Jul 8, 2020
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Anyone have a US link to high quality proper studs, washers, and nuts that fit the eve 280ah cells? Also any clue to proper torque and seat depth?

Mine came with crappy bolts and I want to replace them.
 
AussieSim said:
Which thread pitch did you order ?
Click to expand...
They only sell the course 1.0mm standard thread and that is the one that works for these EVE cells. I was contemplating some 1/4" buss bars so I purchased 25 mm length but for most people 20 would be plenty adequate. I also bought Nordlock zinc coated washers and flanged nuts for more surface area.
 
LanduytG said:
Here and here. This is what I used and they work great. I got M6 by 20mm long but 16mm would be OK too. I used 18-8 stainless in both. M6

Greg
Click to expand...

Can you link the part number you used for the set screws ? There are multiple options on the catalog page, but all the M6 set screws seem to have a 1mm thread.

I take it there are inserted into the terminals with a hex key, then the lugs/balance leads mount on the set screw, then nuts +/- washer compress down on the lugs.

What's stopping the set screw from penetrating into the battery as the nut is tightened ?
 
AussieSim said:
Can you link the part number you used for the set screws ? There are multiple options on the catalog page, but all the M6 set screws seem to have a 1mm thread.

This is what I used. They are 1mm pitch because that is what you need.

I take it there are inserted into the terminals with a hex key, then the lugs/balance leads mount on the set screw, then nuts +/- washer compress down on the lugs.

What's stopping the set screw from penetrating into the battery as the nut is tightened ?

Screw them in by hand till they stop and back out a 1/4 turn. Hold them with hex key while tightening the nut.
Click to expand...
 
I would suggest using low strength loctite threadlocker on the studs. They won't spin assuming normal nuts are used.
 
AussieSim said:
What's stopping the set screw from penetrating into the battery as the nut is tightened ?
Click to expand...
I screw in the set screw / stud with an Allen wrench with very little torque til I feel it bottom out .... then back it out about 1/2 turn .... then hold the stud in place with the Allen wrench while tightening the nut with an open end wrench.
Some use Loctite on the threads, but I don't. It seems that after sitting for a while that the stud kinda locks in on it's own. If you are expecting a LOT of vibration, using the Loctite may be a good idea.
 
It seems like you could put low strength thread locker on them and screw in finger tight. Let them dry then they won't turn when you tighten the nut.
That way you get maximum thread and it will be a little harder to strip. As long as the nut isn't binding it won't push the screw in farther.
 
ArthurEld said:
It seems like you could put low strength thread locker on them and screw in finger tight. Let them dry then they won't turn when you tighten the nut.
That way you get maximum thread and it will be a little harder to strip. As long as the nut isn't binding it won't push the screw in farther.
Click to expand...

There are a number of ways to do this that will probably work ... and some of them depend upon the level of risk you are willing to take either damaging the threads or pushing too hard on the bottom of the cell connection.
I prefer to minimize the risk of the stud damaging the bottom of the cell connection. My worry with the approach you mentioned is the risk of what happens if the thread locker doesn't hold.
 
Bob B said:
There are a number of ways to do this that will probably work ... and some of them depend upon the level of risk you are willing to take either damaging the threads or pushing too hard on the bottom of the cell connection.
I prefer to minimize the risk of the stud damaging the bottom of the cell connection. My worry with the approach you mentioned is the risk of what happens if the thread locker doesn't hold.
Click to expand...
To be honest, I haven't ever had one of these cells. But I assume people who have damaged cells did it with a bolt because they didn't realize they were hitting the bottom. I am also assuming that even if you didn't use thread locker with new screws and nuts the nut won't push the screw into the bottom very hard. I guess I am assuming a lot since I don't have one and I don't even know what the bottom of those holes look like.
 
Bob B said:
My worry with the approach you mentioned is the risk of what happens if the thread locker doesn't hold.
Click to expand...
My experience using studs is that unless the nut is binding on the stud the stud is not going to be forced into the bottom of the cell. I have tightened the nuts hundreds of times and it is pretty obvious if the stud is rotating. At first I used an allen key to make sure the stud did not rotate. My studs are backed off a half turn before the thread locker sets, By the time the nut is hand tight it only takes a quarter turn to get to recommended torque. The thread locker is more of a convenience so that the studs don't come out when changing buss bars or doing other maintenance. If I see that a stud is loose I would add more thread locker and set the stud to the correct safe depth again. I do use high strength thread locker and so far it has not been a problem.
@ArthurEld offers practical advice and my experience agrees with that. There is always the option of using an allen wrench to be sure.
 
Last edited:
ArthurEld said:
It seems like you could put low strength thread locker on them and screw in finger tight. Let them dry then they won't turn when you tighten the nut.
That way you get maximum thread and it will be a little harder to strip. As long as the nut isn't binding it won't push the screw in farther.
Click to expand...

I haven't seen any posts from people who have damaged the cells by bottoming out in the cell connector .... but I may have missed them.
I have seen people report having damaged the aluminum threads on the cells connections and have used various means to repair the threads .... so is is probably true that the greatest concern is damage to the threads. The Stud / nut method of doing the connections itself is designed to minimize the possibility of thread damage.
 
I used 20mm length M6-1.0 set screws with my 3/16" think copper bus bars. With 2 stacked bus bars, I used a 30mm. 25mm probably would have been fine. 20mm was to short to connect any sort of lug on top of the bus bar.

The picture shows the insulated 10mm wrench that I picked up for this job. Electrical tape around any wrench would accomplish the same thing. I don't recommend using a non-insulated wrench as it is very easy to have one slip and arc across + and -.

IMG_6167.jpg
 
I like that wrench .... do you have a link to where you got it?
 
bpal said:
I used 20mm length M6-1.0 set screws with my 3/16" think copper bus bars. With 2 stacked bus bars, I used a 30mm. 25mm probably would have been fine. 20mm was to short to connect any sort of lug on top of the bus bar.

The picture shows the insulated 10mm wrench that I picked up for this job. Electrical tape around any wrench would accomplish the same thing. I don't recommend using a non-insulated wrench as it is very easy to have one slip and arc across + and -.

View attachment 23056
Click to expand...

Your battery pack looks nice. Any chance of seeing a picture of your whole threaded rod compression fixture?
 
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