Lishen 272 set up - What am I forgetting?

[JaVid]

Hello! I am putting together a diy battery pack - I have (18) Lishen 272AH batteries on order through the Group Buy and have received my tracking info (still likely 30-40 days away). I plan to build (2) 24v 272AH packs (and have 2 batteries left over to use as spares in future). This battery is for my off-grid cabin, so will not be subject to vibrations.

I will have a 24v system. Victron Multiplus 24/3000Inverter/charger. Victron 150/70 Charge Controller

Since I don't really know when my cells will arrive, I want to get what I will need all figured out so I can top balance and test out my new cells in reasonable amount of time from arrival in case anything isn't up to snuff. Here is what I was planning on getting:

- Power Supply to top balance battery - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ML2MP9Q

- IR meter to help sort batteries best - Not sure if this is necessary?

- Busbars? - Plan is to use the ones that come with the batteries.

- BMS - was planning on two of these from Overkill - https://overkillsolar.com/product/bms-100a-8s-lifepo4/ - not sure about wires, etc I should order attached

- Studs for batteries rather than use bolts

- I was planning on doing a diy capacity test with heat gun or similar - should I buy one of these instead?

I plan to start ordering things this weekend - anything else I should get?

Thanks for any help!

 

[zorlig]

Don't forget all the wires, lugs, crimpers, etc. I also don't see a plan to bind the cells together or house them.

Did you order enough bus bars to have the 2P setup or top balance with them? That is something I forgot to do.

 

[Steve_S]

https://diysolarforum.com/attachments/luyuan-tech-basic-lifepo4-guide-v1-0a-pdf.32448/

10A Bench supply will take 27-30 hours to charge a 272 from 2.50 to 3.65.
I have a 0-15 V / 0-40A Bench supply, 14 hours to do a 280AH from 2.50 to 3.65o Saturated to where the Amps drawn are <2.0A.
TekPower TP1540E DC Adjustable Switching Power Supply 15V 40A Digital Display

I have a YAOREA YR1035+ IR Cell tester. It's a good device BUT they cannot report resistance properly with cells above 100AH capacity.
Real Four Wire Lithium Battery Internal Resistance Tester YR1035+ Nickel Hydrogen Lead Button Polymer Alkalinity|Battery Testers| - AliExpress
Yaorea YR1035+ Battery Internal Resistance Meter Tester, Manual | DIY Solar Power Forum (diysolarforum.com)
Available on EBay / Amazon with different brand names. YAOREA is the OEM.

Capacity testing can be done at Cell or Pack level.
This is where you may want to go back and review how Will tests both. There are Cell Testers which are good for determining the capacity of an individual cell. These will not determine if you have cells which are Runners or if they are lazy. It takes roughly 20 hours to discharge a cell fully using a 20A test load. Some testers have logging to PC as well.
Pack level testing will expose any Runner or Lazy cells but you will have to use the Inverter + Load through a Shunt or Hall sensor pickup to register the output.

Hope it helps, Good Luck.

 

[JaVid]

Don't forget all the wires, lugs, crimpers, etc. I also don't see a plan to bind the cells together or house them.

Did you order enough bus bars to have the 2P setup or top balance with them? That is something I forgot to do.

Thanks for reply. I think the batteries come with double bus bars, so hopefully that will be enough for any set up I need. You are right about the lugs, etc need to be figured out - I am not in big hurry to deploy these batteries (hopefully by the summer), so mostly at this point looking to get them balanced and tested so that if there are any issues, I can get them resolved quickly.

 

[markver]

Hello! I am putting together a diy battery pack - I have (18) Lishen 272AH batteries on order through the Group Buy and have received my tracking info (still likely 30-40 days away). I plan to build (2) 24v 272AH packs (and have 2 batteries left over to use as spares in future). This battery is for my off-grid cabin, so will not be subject to vibrations.

I will have a 24v system. Victron Multiplus 24/3000Inverter/charger. Victron 150/70 Charge Controller

Since I don't really know when my cells will arrive, I want to get what I will need all figured out so I can top balance and test out my new cells in reasonable amount of time from arrival in case anything isn't up to snuff. Here is what I was planning on getting:

- Power Supply to top balance battery - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ML2MP9Q

- IR meter to help sort batteries best - Not sure if this is necessary?

- Busbars? - Plan is to use the ones that come with the batteries.

- BMS - was planning on two of these from Overkill - https://overkillsolar.com/product/bms-100a-8s-lifepo4/ - not sure about wires, etc I should order attached

- Studs for batteries rather than use bolts

- I was planning on doing a diy capacity test with heat gun or similar - should I buy one of these instead?

I plan to start ordering things this weekend - anything else I should get?

Thanks for any help!

Following for info...

 

[michael d]

Thanks for reply. I think the batteries come with double bus bars, so hopefully that will be enough for any set up I need. You are right about the lugs, etc need to be figured out - I am not in big hurry to deploy these batteries (hopefully by the summer), so mostly at this point looking to get them balanced and tested so that if there are any issues, I can get them resolved quickly.

the Lishen cells have 6mm studs. mine came with 16mm long ones on the 1st set of 32. they did not come with enough bus bars to parallel them together. I made one 16 cell 2P8S 24-volt battery bank and I am charging the other 16 cells ever so slowly with the solar power from that bank with a Riden 6012w (but I now have a Riden 6018w to assemble). it is quite accurate and you can set the voltage and current both.
I bought longer studs and more flare nuts. I also bought a copper bus bar to make more bus bars for between the cells.
I suggest you get 25mm long studs so you have no problems connecting in parallel or when connecting your heavy cable to the main busbar and on to your inverter. I made 4/0 cables crimped with ends for that part mine are only 18 inches long. then I made 1/0 gauge cables (with 3/8 inch holes in the lugs) from the main busbar to the 400 amp class T fuse, and on to the (6000Watt low-frequency split phase) inverter, the class T fuse is on the positive side. buy good lugs - I like the Selterm tinned copper ring terminal marine-grade ones.
6mm studs are very small about 1/4 inch in diameter. do not overtighten them. people have stripped them but snug them down.
I took a piece of red tape and put it on the positive end of every Lishen cell and then used a Dymo label maker and typed out positive for every positive cell and put that on top of the red Tape. I accidentally shorted and ruined 2 of the 6mm studs so everything is now clearly labeled. think of the power of an arc welder.
oh yea, --- one more thing as the stock-supplied bus bars are not long enough for my physical 2P8S configuration I made 2 cables between cells 4 and cells 5 (out of 6 gauge crimped cables) for the serial connection there. the cells are parallel in 2's then serially connected for 2P8S 24-volt configuration. the 2P cells act as one cell and I set them at 544Ah capacity in my ElectrodacusSBMS0 which is the BMS I am using. it has 3 decimal place monitoring and balancing of the amps and volts.
I still need to make a better compression fixture - waiting on the drill press to make the more accurate placement of the holes.
cheers!
invest or buy a hydraulic crimper to make cables and buy an mc4 crimper for the solar wires. you can never have too many tools.