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Lishen 272AH thread?

I can't remember exactly, but the vent window I think indicates ETC as the manufacturer. Eve does make some 105AH cells (I have some grade A ones on order from Amy, they all measure 109AH per Eve's tests).
The physical dimensions listed by EVE for the 105 ah cells dont match mine, that was an indicator, they are not quite as tall. I am not sure any of it matters again the physically match the internals checked out almost identical. and they pulls virtually full capacity. I received them in like 4 days. They were $321 to my door. I might have been about to get them cheaper from ALi but I don't like waiting 2 months and still run the risk of getting duds. If that makes sense.
 
The electrolyte in the batteries are flammable, unfortunately if its lishen there is an increase likelihood it can leak. Here is a video showing this by Current Connected
Why do you say that Lishen leak?? I saw one forum member that van almost burnt down but I think he had Eva
 
What are others experience on heating up of the cells near depletion?
When I did a capacity test with a 4S setup, running 2KW/around 180A, the batteries kept cool almost throughout the whole test. Cool meaning, nt real difference to room temperature.
Only in the last Ahs the temperature would raise. That can be expected in the sense that the voltage drops and the current increases. But they were hotter than I would expect for the extra current. Hotter here is up to 50°C (not 100% sure anymore on the value)
Do we know if the battery under heavy load, near depletion have a higher internal resistance? That could explain the higher temperature.
Is there a chemistry reason why they would heat up more near depletion?
Old thread, I know, but since you mentioned this.......

I've been keeping track, on my 280AH Eve cells, 2 degree C rise, until the last 40 amp hours or so, then a 5 degree C rise above ambient.
 
Why do you say that Lishen leak?? I saw one forum member that van almost burnt down but I think he had Eva
Start here:


Yes, a known issue.
 
I would recommend not installing your electrical system on or near any combustible materials. Also install radio interlinked smoke detectors in your power houses, your bedroom, your electrical compartments in your van or RV, over your garage test benches, or anywhere else a fire is most likely to start. Have the proper fire extinguisher at all of these same locations. Install proper protective fuses/breakers and always oversize vs undersize your wiring. Mark all shut offs clearly with directions so that family, friends, FD know how to shut things down in an emergency.
 
I would recommend not installing your electrical system on or near any combustible materials. Also install radio interlinked smoke detectors in your power houses, your bedroom, your electrical compartments in your van or RV, over your garage test benches, or anywhere else a fire is most likely to start. Have the proper fire extinguisher at all of these same locations. Install proper protective fuses/breakers and always oversize vs undersize your wiring. Mark all shut offs clearly with directions so that family, friends, FD know how to shut things down in an emergency.
Good advice.
 
My cells finally arrived at my doors. The hardware they came with feels quite weak (M6 bolts instead of set screws + flange nuts). Is there any good place to buy better hardware? I also am looking for more bus bars needed for top balancing.

I'm thinking about ordering these:

They're a pair of stainless set screw + flange nut. Anything special to keep in mind? Would serrated flange nuts be better? Can I use a thread locker or will that mess with the electrical contact?
 
Is there any good place to buy better hardware? I also am looking for more bus bars needed for top balancing.
Search for M6 Stainless steel Grub Screws. Get at least 20MM long.

You don't need heavy bus bars for top balancing unless you are using a huge power supply. Just make a few jumpers where you don't have bus bars. 10AWG wire will work for anything up to 30A. (of course, heavier wire is slightly better)

Before anyone jumps on me about Voltage drops...... Yes, less resistance in the connections will speed up the process, but if you are using 10 AWG with a 10A supply.... Larger wires won't help all that much. Furthermore, if you do the process correctly, the voltage drops all go to zero at the end of the process.
 
I'm thinking about ordering these:
The grub screws should be fine.

The plated flange nuts are OK but I prefer stainless nuts and stainless washers.

BTW: I like to use Stainless Steel star washers for lock nuts, They grab well, they are thin, and they don't require a lot of torque to work.
 
Search for M6 Stainless steel Grub Screws. Get at least 20MM long.

You don't need heavy bus bars for top balancing unless you are using a huge power supply. Just make a few jumpers where you don't have bus bars. 10AWG wire will work for anything up to 30A. (of course, heavier wire is slightly better)

Before anyone jumps on me about Voltage drops...... Yes, less resistance in the connections will speed up the process, but if you are using 10 AWG with a 10A supply.... Larger wires won't help all that much. Furthermore, if you do the process correctly, the voltage drops all go to zero at the end of the process.
I ordered 20mm stainless steel set screws/ grub screws on aliexpress in 50 packs for $4.17 delivered to South Dakota. ironically if you order 100 pieces, then the price and shipping goes up significantly. go figure. I have ordered these about 3 different times. but you have to order the smaller 50 piece quantity to get the better price. it took 23 shipping days for my order in August 2021 from China on Aliexpress. but still waiting on the order on November 12th, 2021 order, but some things are arriving now so who knows exactly how fast or slow they arrive. you have to plan ahead or pay more at Amazon or other places.
the tortoise beat the hare anyways! ?
?have a great day it looks to be some fine late fall weather for outside solar panel array building in South Dakota, cheers all
 
I ordered 20mm stainless steel set screws/ grub screws on aliexpress in 50 packs for $4.17 delivered to South Dakota. ironically if you order 100 pieces, then the price and shipping goes up significantly. go figure. I have ordered these about 3 different times. but you have to order the smaller 50 piece quantity to get the better price. it took 23 shipping days for my order in August 2021 from China on Aliexpress. but still waiting on the order on November 12th, 2021 order, but some things are arriving now so who knows exactly how fast or slow they arrive. you have to plan ahead or pay more at Amazon or other places.
the tortoise beat the hare anyways! ?
?have a great day it looks to be some fine late fall weather for outside solar panel array building in South Dakota, cheers all
I order on Amazon for about $2 more and get them in 2 days.
 
I order on Amazon for about $2 more and get them in 2 days.
yes, amazon is very fast to ship most things. It takes 82 days to get the batteries so ordered some things as I went. thanks you (JustJohn)for the battery cables. I think the problem was the connection>>> battery to riden connection. I will likely use the riden 6012 and riden 6018 again in the next couple weeks on my 32 new eve lf280k cells (another 4P8S build). thanks a million! I am going to do some resistance testing on the big battery assemblies in January 2022. I learn more all the time, I am doing lots of studying on electrical things!
 
yes, amazon is very fast to ship most things. It takes 82 days to get the batteries so ordered some things as I went. thanks you (JustJohn)for the battery cables. I think the problem was the connection>>> battery to riden connection. I will likely use the riden 6012 and riden 6018 again in the next couple weeks on my 32 new eve lf280k cells (another 4P8S build). thanks a million! I am going to do some resistance testing on the big battery assemblies in January 2022. I learn more all the time, I am doing lots of studying on electrical things!
One thing that I learned was to clean the busbars and terminals every single time I put a pack together.
 
I thought about this myself, but my thoughts were : there is enough energy stored in these cells to re-ignite the fire after the initial outbreak was extinguished. I'd be interested in hearing from anyone who has experience with these, though. For my own fire-resistant setup, I have my batteries on the floor of my garage, away from any combustibles, and I mount my inverters and chargers on drywall with a piece of metal flashing behind them.
I'm looking at flashing,vertically against studs, to put between LiFeP04 280ah cells and the the wood studs in a shed. Putting patio blocks under the stack of 8 cells. Two columns, sideways. Would a fire take longer to burn through aluminum or galv. steel. Alum specs say 0.008-in thick. Galv Steel says 0.01 for some, the thickess at Lowes is 0.016-in. What's gonna be the best option ?
 
Would a fire take longer to burn through aluminum or galv. steel.
I doubt that a fire would ever burn through steel but aluminum would melt. The issue is going to be how fast the heat will transfer through the steel to ignite the wood. ⅝ drywall is rated for one hour. The best strategy is to reduce the risk of fire. LFP cells present very little risk if fire compared to other Lithium chemistries.
 
I'm looking at flashing,vertically against studs, to put between LiFeP04 280ah cells and the the wood studs in a shed. Putting patio blocks under the stack of 8 cells. Two columns, sideways. Would a fire take longer to burn through aluminum or galv. steel. Alum specs say 0.008-in thick. Galv Steel says 0.01 for some, the thickess at Lowes is 0.016-in. What's gonna be the best option ?
Aluminum melts at @ 1100 to1200 F , steel a lot hotter . Both will conduct heat very well to burn anything burnable around them. use 1" of drywall
for 1 hr fire rating (350F)

Jim Jr
 
I'm a bit worried that some water seepage could be in the shed at some time. Drywall might not hold up.

What about using patio blocks for the wall side ? 1" Concrete ? Like pavers used for finish on top of slab ?
 
I'm a bit worried that some water seepage could be in the shed at some time. Drywall might not hold up.

What about using patio blocks for the wall side ? 1" Concrete ? Like pavers used for finish on top of slab ?
How about cement board
 
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