Loctite install process for studs

[fafrd]

Thanks fafrd, I get the idea of nuts and bolts. I'm standing by my sort of tautological assertion that "if you squeeze a bunch out you have probably applied too much" for keeping the stud from getting loose.

Yeah, you wasted a bit of material, but at least for me, the downside of not knowing how much thread remains uncoated outweighs the downside of a bit of wastage and some cleanup (which the electrical-tape-cover-with-hole greatly simplifies).

Once you’ve stripped your first LiFePO4 thread, you have a different perspective on all of these profound questions .

[ps. And as far as ‘bunch’ I am in complete agreement. There is a kind of granularity around one drop (~30uL) - if anything over a drop squeezed out, you can do better...]

 

[Deleted member 23531]

Once you’ve stripped your first LiFePO4 thread, you have a different perspective on all of these profound questions

Yeah, seems like you've been going through that recently. I hope never to encounter that issue...fingers crossed.

 

[fafrd]

Yeah, seems like you've been going through that recently. I hope never to encounter that issue...fingers crossed.

The most important lesson I learned (the hard way) is to not even attempt a one-or-two ‘I’ll just bolt it in gently’ use of the aluminum threads. Any new cells I receive I will Loctite in grubscrews before any attempt at attaching anything to the terminals.

Now to be fair, the thread that I stripped was less than 4mm deep (1 to 1-1/2mm less that all my other threads), so it may have stripped no matter what...

 

[blutow]

Yeah, maybe I'm engaged in armchair commenting; I will try it out and let you know. With studs I don't think you should bottom them out anyway as the pressure at the tip has a huge mechanical advantage to strip the threads or blow out the bottom, in addition to being a motive force to "undo" the bolt. Loctite is supposed to be applied to the side of a bolt (the threads), and not the tip, so I don't know where this hydraulic pressure would come from: surely the threads are not that precise and there is some play between the tap and die parts, right?

"Tip" probably wasn't the right word. I was trying to say that even if you just apply one drop of loctitie to the first couple threads , you will still get loctite coming up through the hole. I'm sure it's possible to apply so little that it doesn't come up, but I don't think there is any way to do that and ensure all the threads are coated. I'm normally a guy who uses as little glue or gasket sealer as possible, I hate excess and slop. This is a case where I can't think of a good way to just apply what you need to where you need it. It's no different then taping stuff off before painting, much easier than trying to stay in the lines or cleaning up the mess after.

Also, I probably should have referred to it as a pneumatic effect, not hydraulic. I'm not applying so much loctite that the hole is full and fluid is pushing out because of too much loctite volume. It's the air being compressed as the stud goes down. The loctite makes a nice seal around the threads, so the air pushes the loctite up via air pressure. If you wear a magnifying lens, you can see micro bubbles coming through the loctite as you slowly rock the stud down into place. It's technically a combination of pneumatic and hydraulic effect, but we're splitting hairs at this point.

 

[ArthurEld]

The loctite wicks to everything near it. Even after cleaning it up completely, more comes out.

 

[Stepandwolf]

Old thread, I know, but maybe I will get a response. The op used Loctite and a responder used JB Weld. Why would one be advantageous to the other if you have a common goal and both achieve it?

Likewise, why not Loctite Blue? Apparently the Blue sticks to SS without the need of a primer, so cost is lower. Blue's strength is also far beyond what is needed to hold the stud.

 

[FilterGuy]

Old thread, I know, but maybe I will get a response. The op used Loctite and a responder used JB Weld. Why would one be advantageous to the other if you have a common goal and both achieve it?

Likewise, why not Loctite Blue? Apparently the Blue sticks to SS without the need of a primer, so cost is lower. Blue's strength is also far beyond what is needed to hold the stud.

Ok....Let me confuse things for you a bit more: Some folks like to use silver infused epoxy because it is conductive. (I used to advocate for that but have since decided it is not worth the hassle and expense.)

It all comes down to what you think will hold the stud. The objective is to put the stud in permanently and not have it move when tightening nuts onto it. The fact is, I don't think any of us have a good handle on what holds best let alone what would be good enough.....

 

[Stepandwolf]

When I did some adhesive research I found some confounding information.
1. the aluminum will have an oxide surface you need to clear off....how are you going to do that in the thread hole...they suggest sandblasting
2. the shiny surface on the S/S doesn't adhere well to most adhesives. they suggest buffing off all of the shiny

I am lazy and easy works for me....I am ok cleaning the holes with some alcohol. Same with the studs. I am learning towards blue. I can remove it if needed, but is vibration resistant and is SS compatible. When I first started this project I didn't even consider using any adhesive, all friction.

Thanks

 

[Daddy Tanuki]

When I did some adhesive research I found some confounding information.
1. the aluminum will have an oxide surface you need to clear off....how are you going to do that in the thread hole...they suggest sandblasting
2. the shiny surface on the S/S doesn't adhere well to most adhesives. they suggest buffing off all of the shiny

I am lazy and easy works for me....I am ok cleaning the holes with some alcohol. Same with the studs. I am learning towards blue. I can remove it if needed, but is vibration resistant and is SS compatible. When I first started this project I didn't even consider using any adhesive, all friction.

Thanks

No offense Bro, but I highly doubt you are going to remove locktite blue from these threads if needed.

I understand there is no need to heat blue to remove, but the threads you guys are getting seem to be pretty fragile and even blue gets a really good grip if you are applying it properly and letting it cure properly prior to use.... just my thoughts.

I have a type of thread locker thats used on jet engines that is not the same material as locktite, its more of a rubber (poor description) material but its a vibration resistant thread locker for low torque high vibration materials and I bet even it would strip out he thread on these cells. I think that the batteries threads are just too shallow to start with. actual thread depth,not threading depth boltwise. the individual threads are shallow. even if they go 8 or 9 mm into the aluminum

Ken

 

[Stepandwolf]

No offense Bro, but I highly doubt you are going to remove locktite blue from these threads if needed.

I understand there is no need to heat blue to remove, but the threads you guys are getting seem to be pretty fragile and even blue gets a really good grip if you are applying it properly and letting it cure properly prior to use.... just my thoughts.

I have a type of thread locker thats used on jet engines that is not the same material as locktite, its more of a rubber (poor description) material but its a vibration resistant thread locker for low torque high vibration materials and I bet even it would strip out he thread on these cells. I think that the batteries threads are just too shallow to start with. actual thread depth,not threading depth boltwise. the individual threads are shallow. even if they go 8 or 9 mm into the aluminum

Ken

You are probably right, but seems better than red based on my own conclusions. If they can't ever come out, that is probably OK too. Rather have that happen than they all strip