diy solar

diy solar

Looking for All-in-One Recommendation for Motorhome

haha :) I hate noise, I'm going camping to be away from everything and have piece and quiet. Don't want to ruin that with a generator more then necessary.

Preferable I would power everything with solar - but I know with the limited roof real-estate I'm working with - I need to incorporate the generator into the design, to have a backup power source.
I have a truck camper and I've got 600 watts of solar on my roof and I know I can put another 300 up there. You can probably put more up there than you think. One trick I've seen a lot it to make rails or a platform for the panels to mount them over your vents and air conditioner(s). Two of mine are mounted on a roof rack and cover a couple of the vents. That works out really well for me. Now I can open the vents in the rain.

Of course, you may already be taller than you like and mounting over the AC it too high.
 
I have a truck camper and I've got 600 watts of solar on my roof and I know I can put another 300 up there. You can probably put more up there than you think. One trick I've seen a lot it to make rails or a platform for the panels to mount them over your vents and air conditioner(s). Two of mine are mounted on a roof rack and cover a couple of the vents. That works out really well for me. Now I can open the vents in the rain.

Of course, you may already be taller than you like and mounting over the AC it too high.
have to look into that rack idea. Above the vents would be interesting. But not over the A/C.

My Class A - is an R-Vision 241. So it's not crazy tall - like 10.5ft - but I like the low the profile. Drives like a Van.
iu


Without doing anything to it - I can fit 2x 400w panels - when I would go over the front vent - I could be at 1200.
When I think about the rack - and going above the rear vents -using the panels as rain cover - there would be probably space for another panel.
So 1600w.. interesting thought.
That would be already close to the 2000w input the All-In-one Units can handle.
 
Get up on the roof with a pad of paper, pen and tape measure. Get every measurement you can. Then take that to a CAD program and make a drawing of your roof. With the drawing, you can "place" prospective solar panels on the roof to see how well they fit and how many you can put up there. There are free CAD tools out there. One that I use is Sketchup.

If you use Z brackets, they require an extra 1.5" to 2" of solar panel width. A rack system may be able to fit panels more compactly. Once the rack in installed, panel installation is easy. A rack also allows for quick/easy replacement of panels.
 
Get up on the roof with a pad of paper, pen and tape measure. Get every measurement you can. Then take that to a CAD program and make a drawing of your roof. With the drawing, you can "place" prospective solar panels on the roof to see how well they fit and how many you can put up there. There are free CAD tools out there. One that I use is Sketchup.

If you use Z brackets, they require an extra 1.5" to 2" of solar panel width. A rack system may be able to fit panels more compactly. Once the rack in installed, panel installation is easy. A rack also allows for quick/easy replacement of panels.
thanks for the advice!
On my Van I had the panels directly mounted with Z brackets.

What kind of racking system should I research? Is there a kind of system you know is stable?
 
thanks for the advice!
On my Van I had the panels directly mounted with Z brackets.

What kind of racking system should I research? Is there a kind of system you know is stable?

I can't recommend one over the other. I considered using a racking system for my trailer. The options were a bit overwhelming. Because of the layout of my roof, a rack wasn't going to improve anything. It wouldn't have made it possible to add more panels. A rack would have made the install easier.
 
Just was googling around for racks and found something interesting:


SR2S-48xx-E-NCV3-E-W-1400x788-90.jpg



an expanding solar system.
I put linear actuated tilt mechanism on my truck camper roof, fabbed it all myself. Takes time.

I prefer using aluminum Unistrut myself for mounting to the roof. If you want to change something later, you simply unscrew off the Unistrut and do whatever you want. Permanently sealed down with Eternabond 2 sided tape and Dicor.
 
I put linear actuated tilt mechanism on my truck camper roof, fabbed it all myself. Takes time.

Do you have pictures of this? I've been thinking about doing the same on my TC for a while now.
 
Avid boondocker, so i went with 9000btu senville minisplit and 2000w of pv on the roof (and quiet/tiny Honda 2000i as backup)
The nice thing of splits is that they free up valuable roof space (besides being a lot more efficient and quiet then the dated rv rooftop AC's)

Was thinking to run a growatt 24/3000 as a stopgap until I can afford the victron multiplus I want, but just canceled my order when I found out it eats 50w of parasitic load ? ... probably stick with my old samlex inverter for now and get the multiplus asap....
 
Was thinking to run a growatt 24/3000 as a stopgap until I can afford the victron multiplus I want, but just canceled my order when I found out it eats 50w of parasitic load ? ... probably stick with my old samlex inverter for now and get the multiplus asap....
I'm not against a mini split. I love those things.

But I got other stuff on my rear bumper - so I'm not sure where to put the outside unit.

I found on Aliexpress 24V Split A/C units - where you can apparently mount the condenser (outside part) flat.


Just toying with the idea - doing everything DC - no inverter whatsoever. Aside of the the A/C unit and the Microwave I don't have really any AC devices.
 
Was thinking to run a growatt 24/3000 as a stopgap until I can afford the victron multiplus I want, but just canceled my order when I found out it eats 50w of parasitic load
Only if the inverter is idling....... the Multiplus will have a draw also.

I simply installed a remote switch from the galley where the display is mounted for battery monitor and switch inverter on when needed.

One could make it automated if they really wanted to.
 
Do you have pictures of this? I've been thinking about doing the same on my TC for a while now.
Take a look at these https://www.solarvector.net/

My panels are oriented vertical not horizontal. Basically an actuator for power but I did design my own locking mechanism when the panels are lowered where the actuator pushes and pulls a long stainless rod to lock the panels down automatically.

I spent a few weekends working out the kinks, wasn't fun. I have a TIG welder and fully equipped shop with about every tool you can think off including a mill. I think the SolarVector would be the way to go if you don't have access to a full machine shop like I do. Mine are made completely out of aluminum and stainless. Mine can go full 90 degrees to allow for cleaning and access to the roof air. I'll run the roof air until it pukes or I decide to go mini split, then I'll put two more panels on the tilting brackets.
 
Only if the inverter is idling....... the Multiplus will have a draw also.

I simply installed a remote switch from the galley where the display is mounted for battery monitor and switch inverter on when needed.

One could make it automated if they really wanted to.
so you can start the inverter inside the growatt seperate from the rest?
 
Only if the inverter is idling....... the Multiplus will have a draw also.

I simply installed a remote switch from the galley where the display is mounted for battery monitor and switch inverter on when needed.

One could make it automated if they really wanted to.
Iirc the Victron multiplus 3000 draws 15w in basic "on" ... less in "sleep" or "standby"
I'm a fulltime rver with a residential 110v fridge/freezer, so 50w or 15w seems like a huge difference for my batteries ?
 
so you can start the inverter inside the growatt seperate from the rest?
Yes, there is a switch on the bottom you can use to turn the inverter on/off. Will made a video how he made it remote controlled. Quite simple, you simply splice into the wires and create a parallel switch.
 
Iirc the Victron multiplus 3000 draws 15w in basic "on" ... less in "sleep" or "standby"
I'm a fulltime rver with a residential 110v fridge/freezer, so 50w or 15w seems like a huge difference for my batteries ?
Victron advertises the 12/3000/120 and 24/3000/70 use 20w at zero load power, 15w in Zero load power in AES mode, 8/10w in Zero load power in Search mode. Real report on a 4kw in this thread says 30w. https://diysolarforum.com/threads/h...-just-sitting-there-idling.14669/#post-164048

The copy of Growatt literature in that thread for the PIP2424 has idle under 50w, ECO mode at under 15w. The solar charger for the Growatt uses 2w at idle.

If full time with a freezer/fridge, I'd do one of 2 things with either inverter. One, move to a DC powered fridge/freezer, my Dometic when running uses about 36 watts on 12v. 2nd choice would be using a small inverter for just the freezer/fridge that is sized to run just it. That allows any larger inverter to be turned off.
 
Yes, there is a switch on the bottom you can use to turn the inverter on/off. Will made a video how he made it remote controlled. Quite simple, you simply splice into the wires and create a parallel switch.
50w idle is a lot x24h = 1200wh (+ losses)
15w is far more reasonable. (360wh) My current inverter in my old Van draws about 10w, Solar can replenish this easy on any day.

I'm already used to pushing buttons to turn on the waterpump, etc. Adding another button in the kitchen to turn the power (inverter) on for the Microwave and Coffeemaker? That should be easy.

My idea was to run the fridge on Propane when on the road. It's cheap and works usually pretty good.
I'm not a full timer. So the propane for on average 60 days a year. Should be fine.

Since the 24V MPP products are not supporting more then 600/800w solar (or I didn't find the correct one)

I'm narrowing in on the

Growatt 24V SPF 3000TL LVM – 3kW 120Vac Stackable Inverter 2kW MPPT Charge Controller Split Phase 120V/240V​


I my initial phase I don't have the roof real estate to have more then two large panels - so it will be difficult to get the charge voltage for a 48V system.

The A/C my main concern - draws 12 amps @ 120V
That's about 60A @24V Not to bad. since I need to hookup the All-in-One with wiring for at least 125A anyhow - those cables shouldn't get warm or stressed.
And well below the 100A continues discharge the batteries can take.
 
50w idle is a lot x24h = 1200wh (+ losses)

Your panels should provide some for the overhead in any system during the day. Basically, one has a large enough PV array where the inverter could be left on all day and the batteries get fully charged in a short time. Then turn the inverter off at night. Growatt only draws 2w with inverter off.
15w is far more reasonable. (360wh) My current inverter in my old Van draws about 10w, Solar can replenish this easy on any day.

Having more than one inverter can be quite helpful. As I stated, if one wants to run a 120v fridge 24/7, that really should have it's own inverter sized to the fridge. That is most efficient.

I'm already used to pushing buttons to turn on the waterpump, etc. Adding another button in the kitchen to turn the power (inverter) on for the Microwave and Coffeemaker? That should be easy.

My idea was to run the fridge on Propane when on the road. It's cheap and works usually pretty good.
I'm not a full timer. So the propane for on average 60 days a year. Should be fine.

Since the 24V MPP products are not supporting more then 600/800w solar (or I didn't find the correct one)

1618055454946.png

This one does 2kw also. https://watts247.com/product/hybrid-lv2424/

I'm narrowing in on the

Growatt 24V SPF 3000TL LVM – 3kW 120Vac Stackable Inverter 2kW MPPT Charge Controller Split Phase 120V/240V​


That is what I have.

I my initial phase I don't have the roof real estate to have more then two large panels - so it will be difficult to get the charge voltage for a 48V system.

You can always go with smaller panels such as 100w with 3 in series, VOC of around 22v. I went with 100w because I could put 4 panels side by side on my truck camper roof perfectly with just enough room on the sides for the mounting brackets.

Measure up your roof space, then draw up a blueprint with various panels and orientation. Maximize the space. One of the best setups I ever saw on a van was this video.
The A/C my main concern - draws 12 amps @ 120V
That's about 60A @24V Not to bad. since I need to hookup the All-in-One with wiring for at least 125A anyhow - those cables shouldn't get warm or stressed.
And well below the 100A continues discharge the batteries can take.
 
have to look into that rack idea. Above the vents would be interesting. But not over the A/C.

My Class A - is an R-Vision 241. So it's not crazy tall - like 10.5ft - but I like the low the profile. Drives like a Van.
iu


Without doing anything to it - I can fit 2x 400w panels - when I would go over the front vent - I could be at 1200.
When I think about the rack - and going above the rear vents -using the panels as rain cover - there would be probably space for another panel.
So 1600w.. interesting thought.
That would be already close to the 2000w input the All-In-one Units can handle.
If I had a motorhome and the roof space, I'd go with a rack like this. https://diysolarforum.com/threads/strut-channel-for-roof-of-rv.20091/post-235752
 
On my Van I have the solar panels side to side - Like a Tent

When parked I point the rear or front back towards south. - north - so I already capturing Sun in the morning - and the later in the afternoon.
Gives me less peak power - but longer power throughout the day. (both panel sides only get sunlight during like 10-2pm)

Part of this idea is - not exposing the broad side walls of the vehicle to the sun during the hottest part of the day - but the shortest side.

I will follow your idea and get a drawing of the roof going.
Have to fresh up on Solidworks or Autocad anyhow :p
 
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