Looking for All-in-One Recommendation for Motorhome

[Zwy]

View attachment 52415
So I decided to go with a 24V System.

There are so many 24V Truck appliances (A/C) and very little 48V system support. Further my highest future load will be an A/C unit with around 1500W, which is fairly easy at 24V. Further I decided to keep the 12V RV system, with it's batteries and converter and everything. The converter draws only a few amps a day to keep lead batteries topped of including the Chassis battery.

I know keeping the 12V system including batteries is redundant - but I'm a prepper and so, the more layers of redundancy I can fit in with little cost - I will do. That also leads me to choose 2x 24V batteries in stead of one large 24V.

I can fit 4 large 40x 80 inch solar panels on my roof - Just have to get flat vents. And find them local, or buy a palette.

How are you mounting the GW? I looked at several areas on my TC, in the end I mounted a box on the rear. I didn't want the fan noise and space was limited inside. Box is vented and contains a thermostatically controlled fan. I used marine ports like this to allow sealing off the box when traveling. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HGBPC59/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and a hooded when for rain on the side. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HVMPHKG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I ran my original cord from the original breaker panel to the GW, fishing it underneath and back up. I have an LB mounted under the GW to allow wires and battery cables to run into the camper. I also added one of these detachable cords and socket to the transfer switch feeding the GW. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08CKYWK7L/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I ran 6 gauge battery cable to buck converter, left the original AC to DC converter in place to run the power jacks. I've tested it this way, works fine without a battery. Power will be supplied by inverter if needed and AC to DC converter switched. No 12v battery, I didn't see the need for the extra weight. I'm still wiring it all up.

 

[eXodus]

How are you mounting the GW? I looked at several areas on my TC, in the end I mounted a box on the rear. I didn't want the fan noise and space was limited inside. Box is vented and contains a thermostatically controlled fan. I used marine ports like this to allow sealing off the box when traveling. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HGBPC59/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and a hooded when for rain on the side. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HVMPHKG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I ran my original cord from the original breaker panel to the GW, fishing it underneath and back up. I have an LB mounted under the GW to allow wires and battery cables to run into the camper. I also added one of these detachable cords and socket to the transfer switch feeding the GW. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08CKYWK7L/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I ran 6 gauge battery cable to buck converter, left the original AC to DC converter in place to run the power jacks. I've tested it this way, works fine without a battery. Power will be supplied by inverter if needed and AC to DC converter switched. No 12v battery, I didn't see the need for the extra weight. I'm still wiring it all up.

Thanks,
I haven't considered the fan noise yet. Is it annoying? Can't you turn of the inverter portion of the Growatt somehow with an external switch?


My initial idea was mounting it inside a cabinet inside my RV right above my power center. Just taking the wire which comes from the external cable bay and connecting it to the Growatt input - and running a short wire from the Growatt into power Center. My 24v batteries very likely go underneath my stove (which I never use and will be removed at some point)


The only 3 things which are running on the Inverter are my A/C, Microwave and Coffeemaker - all rather noisy things. So if then a fan runs -I don't really care - just when it's running all day long next to my bed.

I know at a Truck Camper you have to look for weight. But my 12V batteries are mounted in front of the engine - I mean they are bolted against my bumper. And a need as much weight on the front axel as possible for a Class A RV, because otherwise the swaying makes you sick

 

[Zwy]

Thanks,
I haven't considered the fan noise yet. Is it annoying? Can't you turn of the inverter portion of the Growatt somehow with an external switch?

Yes, I have an external switch mounted right next to the Daly BMS display. I mounted that switch, display and columb meter on the wall beside the couch when I pulled the refrigerator out. You just splice into the wires at the switch on the GW.

My initial idea was mounting it inside a cabinet inside my RV right above my power center.

How are you planning to vent it? You will get heat off the inverter.

Just taking the wire which comes from the external cable bay and connecting it to the Growatt input - and running a short wire from the Growatt into power Center.

Yes, that is similar to how I wired mine, just more distance.

My 24v batteries very likely go underneath my stove (which I never use and will be removed at some point)

Little tight on top........

View attachment 52450View attachment 52451
View attachment 52449
The only 3 things which are running on the Inverter are my A/C, Microwave and Coffeemaker - all rather noisy things. So if then a fan runs -I don't really care - just when it's running all day long next to my bed.

I know at a Truck Camper you have to look for weight. But my 12V batteries are mounted in front of the engine - I mean they are bolted against my bumper. And a need as much weight on the front axel as possible for a Class A RV, because otherwise the swaying makes you sick

I added a front hitch, not sure whether a toolbox is going there or electric bikes. I need the ability to tow a boat, not sure where the bikes are going yet.

I added rear sway bar, Timbrens and better tires to help with any sway.

 

[eXodus]

How are you planning to vent it? You will get heat off the inverter.

Didn't think that all the way through



My next thought was behind the driver against the wall - I don't have that many empty walls - lots of windows - that's why I bought that thing.
Batteries would go underneath the couch then - Further forward for weight - even better.

I added rear sway bar, Timbrens and better tires to help with any sway.

I've upgraded the swaybars and just bought a set of SumoSprings - similar to timbren - just a newer technology. Got them on my Van - amazing things against sway. Further got Bilstein shocks.

Yet - the issue is floorplan with most small Class A. There is usually a couch or a dinette behind the front seats - those things don't weigh anything. So the front 12 ft are very light - then you got heavy stuff ontop of each other. Refrigerator next to the watertank - Bathroom tanks next to the kitchen. Then the whole thing in general is light, Just about 10.000lbs for a 25ft long 10ft high billboard - my Express Van weighs in at over 8000 lbs. and is only 7ft tall.

I'm also towing - our two horses - that's another 600lbs on the hitch ball.

 

[Zwy]

I'd move the batteries and GW up front. More room for batteries, weight up front, the screen on GW easier to read plus it would vent well.

 

[apcorob]

Just toying with the idea - doing everything DC - no inverter whatsoever. Aside of the the A/C unit and the Microwave I don't have really any AC devices.

check out the eclima units particularly the 6000 and 3000 http://www.climaac.com/d/files/Prod...lima6000S(12V24V) - KINGCLIMA Industry-国冰.pdf

i am going all dc if i can also i sure will be watching what you do

 

[eXodus]

check out the eclima units particularly the 6000 and 3000 http://www.climaac.com/d/files/Products-E-Clima/E-Clima6000/Eclima6000S(12V24V) - KINGCLIMA Industry-国冰.pdf

i am going all dc if i can also i sure will be watching what you do

thanks,

Yeah, I'm going to build my project in phases otherwise it will get to expensive all at once. Just bought the RV
The batteries + Growatt is around $3000 + 400-500$ for panels

Further I'm leaving on a trip soon (more money to spend)

All DC would be great, but currently I got a good working AC Air.
But I'm going to keep it open to future upgrades.

 

[dirtyharry]

So I just got the proud new owner from a used 25ft Class A Motorhome.

It has the standard RV-power Lead setup.
1 Chassis Battery
2 House batteries
A completely oversized 5500w generator
Currently the house batteries can charge from the Converter or the Engine.


Requirements:
We are using the RV about once a month for a long weekend and then like 2-3 week long trips.

Since batteries are getting cheaper by the day, I got the dream of running the A/C at least during the night from battery (noise) it used about 4-8kwh through a night.
I know solar will not cover what I use in many occasions.
And since the All-in One systems are coming with substantial chargers (2-3 KW) - I can just program it that it starts the generator before night time for an hour or two to recharge the batteries.

I can probably add 2x 330-400w panels to roof. Maybe 3 when I eliminate one of the vents and the antenna.

I mean you get the 5kwh batteries from Signature Solar or Big Battery for like $1500-2000
Or DIY one, Probably need somewhere between 10 and 20kwh of storage.

The question now - the 12V system works, well -
Should just add the All in One - before all the RV stuff? Leave everything in RV side alone and basically plug the RV into the All-in one system and the other side in the Generator/ Shore power?

Next question the RV has a 30A plug - A 3000w All in one should be sufficient? But I why the heck did they build in a 5500w generator?
24V/ 48V MPP? Growatt? Any other products?

Thanks!

https://watts247.com/videos/ check out his video....................

 

[eXodus]

https://watts247.com/videos/ check out his video....................

thanks, the remote video showed how to parallel wire the inverter switch.

I'd move the batteries and GW up front. More room for batteries, weight up front, the screen on GW easier to read plus it would vent well.

Does the MPPT still charges when you turn of the Inverter? Does the Grid charger still work?

 

[Zwy]

thanks, the remote video showed how to parallel wire the inverter switch.



Does the MPPT still charges when you turn of the Inverter? Does the Grid charger still work?

Yes, it will still charge with inverter off.

 

[sshibly]

So I just got the proud new owner from a used 25ft Class A Motorhome.

It has the standard RV-power Lead setup.
1 Chassis Battery
2 House batteries
A completely oversized 5500w generator
Currently the house batteries can charge from the Converter or the Engine.


Requirements:
We are using the RV about once a month for a long weekend and then like 2-3 week long trips.

Since batteries are getting cheaper by the day, I got the dream of running the A/C at least during the night from battery (noise) it used about 4-8kwh through a night.
I know solar will not cover what I use in many occasions.
And since the All-in One systems are coming with substantial chargers (2-3 KW) - I can just program it that it starts the generator before night time for an hour or two to recharge the batteries.

I can probably add 2x 330-400w panels to roof. Maybe 3 when I eliminate one of the vents and the antenna.

I mean you get the 5kwh batteries from Signature Solar or Big Battery for like $1500-2000
Or DIY one, Probably need somewhere between 10 and 20kwh of storage.

The question now - the 12V system works, well -
Should just add the All in One - before all the RV stuff? Leave everything in RV side alone and basically plug the RV into the All-in one system and the other side in the Generator/ Shore power?

Next question the RV has a 30A plug - A 3000w All in one should be sufficient? But I why the heck did they build in a 5500w generator?
24V/ 48V MPP? Growatt? Any other products?

Thanks!

exo,
what is your travel/camping schedule like? do you stay at one place for weeks? Do you have access to power where you stop?

 

[eXodus]

exo,
what is your travel/camping schedule like? do you stay at one place for weeks? Do you have access to power where you stop?

Monthly extended weekend trips and 2 long trips a year (2-5 weeks) Hardly stay in any place for more then 3-4 days.

The weekend trips have never power. On the long trips I usually got power every other stop.

 

[sshibly]

Monthly extended weekend trips and 2 long trips a year (2-5 weeks) Hardly stay in any place for more then 3-4 days.

The weekend trips have never power. On the long trips I usually got power every other stop.

1 to 3 days - I plan on carrying a small genset in an outside hitch mounted storage thing, I plan on zapping my batts and cook with that when I am out at the state park land. So have a good fast AC charge is good and useful here.

Overnight stops - High idle switch to raise your idle so you can use our dc to charge, you don't really have to get another DC charger but you van feed your ac charger from your vehicle's DC, it will have system loss but very predictive behavior and cheap

shore power a/c charger > batt

vehicle > inverter > a/c charger > batt

is what I am putting in my van.

 

[eXodus]

1 to 3 days - I plan on carrying a small genset in an outside hitch mounted storage thing, I plan on zapping my batts and cook with that when I am out at the state park land. So have a good fast AC charge is good and useful here.

I got a generator in the RV, but I don't want to use it when I'm at the campsite.

I'm OK running it while driving or for emergency charging. Not as permanent part of my power equation.
I like silence and really don't appreciate that some (gladly that's a declining minority) of my fellow campers are firing up their generators in the morning to make coffee or watch TV in the evening.

Overnight stops - High idle switch to raise your idle so you can use our dc to charge, you don't really have to get another DC charger but you van feed your ac charger from your vehicle's DC, it will have system loss but very predictive behavior and cheap

My battery system will be 24V - no high idle will help charging since the truck part is 12V

 

[sshibly]

high idle to make more AMPs to create A/C which powers your charger.

Your A/C charger charges your batt not the vehicle alternator.

With this system, I can swap out batts and chargers anytime, with different voltage solutions 12/24/36/48

use case:
my transit van has 60A max @13v,
My charger is 500w max,

 

[eXodus]

high idle to make more AMPs to create A/C which powers your charger.

Your A/C charger charges your batt not the vehicle alternator.

With this system, I can swap out batts and chargers anytime, with different voltage solutions 12/24/36/48

use case:
my transit van has 60A max @13v,
My charger is 500w max,

sorry I do not understand what you mean.

Further "A/C" is the common abbreviation for AirConditioning. Please use "AC" for AlternatingCurrent.

Need a wiring diagram

 

[sshibly]

sorry I do not understand what you mean.

Further "A/C" is the common abbreviation for AirConditioning. Please use "AC" for AlternatingCurrent.

Need a wiring diagram

oh, no wonder chit has not been working in my van, I plug my charger to my a/c

 

[Zwy]

check out the eclima units particularly the 6000 and 3000 http://www.climaac.com/d/files/Products-E-Clima/E-Clima6000/Eclima6000S(12V24V) - KINGCLIMA Industry-国冰.pdf

i am going all dc if i can also i sure will be watching what you do

50a x 24V = 1200w

I think you could easily run a mini split with inverter loss for much less.

 

[eXodus]

50a x 24V = 1200w

I think you could easily run a mini split with inverter loss for much less.

correct I'm also thinking about how to get a Midea U-Shaped Inverter Window A/C installed in my RV.

Or just buy a Inverter Roof A/C unit from a Company I know:

RV Air Conditioners | Powerful, Quiet, Polished

Upgrade your RV comfort with smart design and powerful performance. Dometic Air Conditioners offer innovation, comfort, & sustainability wherever you roam.

www.dometic.com

( I know it's 240V European, but since I don't have a inverter yet, maybe get one which does that voltage)

 

[Zwy]

correct I'm also thinking about how to get a Midea U-Shaped Inverter Window A/C installed in my RV.

One could modify it to make a mini split out of it, has crossed my mind several times.

Or just buy a Inverter Roof A/C unit from a Company I know:

RV Air Conditioners | Powerful, Quiet, Polished

Upgrade your RV comfort with smart design and powerful performance. Dometic Air Conditioners offer innovation, comfort, & sustainability wherever you roam.

www.dometic.com

( I know it's 240V European, but since I don't have a inverter yet, maybe get one which does that voltage)

No fun it that, besides, I want either something very short on the roof to fit under my tilting panels or mounted on the back wall.